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;( If its not one thing its another....Help

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ftn96, Dec 12, 2000.

  1. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    I got the whole entire 4" lift (all springs) installed. Put her back on all fours and took it for a ride around the hood. Anybody guess what was wrong now????????????
    Freaking hell-acious earthquake type vibration at only 15 mph. The driveshaft now needs attention. Need recommendations. The slip yoke is out about 1-1/2 further than pre-lift. And the rear ears on the shaft are worn out. The caps don't fit in them tight. And while on jack stands in drive, you can feel the vibration through the jacks stands into the concrete floor of the garage. And you can see the horizon of the drive shaft moving up and down as it rotates. You'll think this is from the worn rear ears, or maybe the shaft is a little on the tweeked side. I'm thinking I just need to get proper measurements, and get a whole new shaft. There is a machine shop here in town that builds all the drive shaft for the local drag racers, but he want $285 to make me a new shaft. Nedd advise.
    I haven't tried dropping the t-case yet. It wasn't doing it before the lift, so I'm thinking dropping the t-case will get me by till I can get mo money.

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     
  2. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    The slipyoke may be shaking on the output splines of the xfr case because of insufficient engagement. The worn yoke ears don't help either. You probably should take that deep breath, spend the money, and get a new shaft-it'll be cheaper than replacing everything that'll get thrashed if the shaft decides to depart the truck while driving.

    [​IMG] Semper Maintenance!
     
  3. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    For now, just drop the tcase and you should be fine.

    Steve
    [​IMG]
    1990 K5 with stuff
     
  4. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    LOL!!! Thats funny. "Take a deep breath". I need a few of those right now. The problem is that I promised my wife this would not be a money pit. I know I lied to her. But I thought I could spread it out to cover my a$$. But that is back firing on me. Emmett says his slip yoke only has one inch remaining and has no problems, but that is his truck and this is mine, I know this. But damn, can't a brother have some luck, at least every once in a while?

    Steve, since your here, I have a question. Id there a reason your not increasing the compression on the pics in the gallery? Seems like they take a damn long time to down load. I use fireworks, and export to a jpeg, and it works great. Anyway, thanks for the advise. Anybody else????

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     
  5. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    She won't fall for that again I can bet! That's funny! a 4x4 thats not a money pit hahaha.
    You got your angles wacked. Did the kit come with shims?
    Usualy most kits do and some times you need them sometimes you don't.
    You want the angle at the tranny to be the same as the angle at the pinion. Now I didn't look to see what you have but if you have a pre 80 did you slide the slip shaft appart? It is very important that those be indexed or "Phased" correctly. If you lay the drive shaft down and look at just the yokes on the shaft they should be 90 degs to each other. If they are inline then it will vibrate for sure.
    For a 4 inch kit you usualy run a 2.5 deg shim in the front (fat end foward). In the rear you need to look at the springs and the angle they have turned the pinion. If the pinon is in line with the shaft (no angle at the pinion) it needs to come down. Many aftermarket spring will do this and it's fine if you want to go to the expense of a CV rear drive shaft it's perfect but for a stock style you need to get it down.
    Also retorq your bolts on the springs with weight on the truck. You can't torq it while the axle hanges. Re check all of them at about 1,000 miles. Loos U bolt will cause all sorts of weird stuff to happen.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
     
  6. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I just called the locals at Tennessee off-road, and got their recommendation on driveshaft work. They gave me a name and this guy was KOOL as the stinky stuff (LOL!!). Anyway, he agreed that the stuff I explain was causing my problem. Said he will build me a new DS with 3" tube, machined and balanced and all that jazz. Said If it broke under "normal" conditions he'd repair/replace it for free. All this for $180. So thats not to bad. He said that other stuff would break before his drive shaft did. SO I guess we'll see. I'll let you'll know on Monday.
    Thanks Gents.

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     
  7. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Hell, $180 sounds like a good price for a rear shaft!

    As Grim was Saying, are you using any shims? I have 3 degree shims in the front and my rear blocks have an angle built into them.....

    A loose u-joint will cause vibes also, you said that the yoke was worn?? That maybe causing the joint to come loose.



    Mike [​IMG]
    See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; http://emmett.coloradok5.com
     
  8. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    LISTEN TO STEVE!!! Drop the t-case FIRST! It's 20 min and it's FREE! After my 4" lift I had vibrations, etc. Went to a drive line shop, rebuilt both shafts, still had the vibrations. Droped the t-case, everything back to normal.
     
  9. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, I've got a 90 fullsize jimmy wiht the 241 and I got the 4" skyjacker. There were no shims for the front. The rear springs came with the shims. What degree I have no idea. they were already attached in with the center bolt. I put the fat part on the rear of the perch. The drive shaft is not straight inline with the pinion. It looks, eyeballing it, very close to the yoke coming out of the t-case. The drive shaft is a "solid, one piece". I know the rear ears are worn to the point where I can literally wiggle the caps around. And this I know is not good. I talked my boss into giving me my check early. It helps when the boss is your mom. :)--- But tonight Im gonna lower the t-case with the factory spacers and then Im gonna drive it around the hood and see where I stand. If it is still vibing, It's outta here, and will have new one by EOD Wednesday.

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     
  10. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    At least If I have a brand new shaft I'll know that it isn't the culprit. Not to mention its going to be bigger than the stock 2-3/4. I like the idear of having a big shaft!! LOL!!!!

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     
  11. mich89k5

    mich89k5 Registered Member

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    Drop the T-case. Same exact thing with my blazer. 4" lift usually doesn't need custom driveshaft. Easy job to do like the others said. It worked fo me.

    Mich89k5
     
  12. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, heres the latest. Last night I took my driveshaft measurements before I dropped the t-case. Then I dropped the t-case adn drove it around the hood. The vibration is still there between 10 and 20 but it is not as bad as it was. I need a new driveshaft anyway. SO I'll get the new one and put it in with the t-case up and see what happens. With the t-case dropped my front driveshaft is "MAYBE" 1/8" above my exhaust pipe. That's with no flex. If the passenger side were to drop down under a good wheelin condition, something would have to give.

    I miss my Ex, but my aim is getting better!
    http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com
     

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