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if you could only get ONE driveshaft--which one

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by SCOOBYDANNN, Nov 26, 2003.

  1. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    Getting ready to do the doubler and and my $ situation only allows me to do one driveshaft the right way (HAD)

    which one would you do and why? should I go 1350 or 1410.

    thanks /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I would get the FRONT because it's the shortest and sees the most serious angle and go 1410 if angle is a serious issue or just stay 1350 if it's not.
     
  3. SF87K5

    SF87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Call up Jess at HAD and talk to him. That will be your best source of info about the 1350 or 1410 shafts.
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    1350 and 1410 are the same size caps, just the 1410 is wider.
     
  5. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I would do the rear. That turns on the street and at the higest rpm so it needs to be straight and balanced. The front is only turning when engaged in 4WD, which is at lower speeds (and shaft rpms). Get a good shaft for the back, cut and sleeve the old shaft yourself for the front. I've done this several times with no problems to report...

    BTW, the front does see more angle, but if your not going up in lift it will be less than before the doubler. If it was ok before, it will be better after.
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    BTW, the front does see more angle, but if your not going up in lift it will be less than before the doubler. If it was ok before, it will be better after.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Forgot about the doubler.

    I would still do the front unless you're going to drive on the street, though.
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Oh, something else to think about if money is tight. The rear will generally be non-CV and cheaper than the front which usually is CV.

    FWIW, I run 1410 non CV shafts front and rear now. Same length too...
     
  8. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    relocate your axles so the f/r shafts are the exact same length... then get a HAD and run it in the front. If you ever need it in the rear to "get ya home" just unbolt it from the front and bolt it on the rear. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    j
     
  9. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    about how much further should i move it and what is involved? I have always thought about doing this but didn't have time and $---Just by looking t my truck (or thinking about it) the rear is pretty long and the front isn't very---me thinking the front has to be moved pretty far. It is a truck, so my wheelbase is about 10" longer.
     
  10. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    If you haven't changed the wheel base at all on a LWB truck, your at 132, and you can foget same drive shafts. I'm at around 112 and everything has moved around in one way or another. I'm within 3" of the same drive line length front and rear...
     
  11. BIGJ

    BIGJ 1/2 ton status Author

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    I had this same delima when I got ready to buy new shafts after swapping in the doubler. My budget was tight and I really only had enough money for one High angle C/V. I ended up getting a 1350 c/v shaft for the rear, and a 1410 non c/v shaft for the front. The blazer rarely gets driven on the street and I didn't want to waste the money on the front C/V if I didn't need it. So far I haven't had any noticable vibration in the frontend when it has been driven on the street. It was more important for me to replace the rear shaft with a C/V because I had pretty bad gear chatter in the case from the standard 1350 u-joint I used to run. The rear shaft will get upgraded to 1410 when I get the $$$'s.

    BIGJ
     
  12. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    How much lift do you run with that non-cv 1410 shaft?
     
  13. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    Right now im at 117.5 (i think) SWB. Just for a rule of thumb about how much should i move the front--i dont really care (right now) about having same length driveshafts, but i do want to move it forward. so far im thinking get a HAD rear 1350 and rigging a front up by myself.
     
  14. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    How much to move, well, as in most questions of this nature, the answer is... "it depends". :

    For me, my front axle has been "on a journey" since the beginning. It's moved around several time to try to get the springs to work like I wanted, get the shackle angle I wanted, and to improve the front approach angles. I’m very happy with what I have now, and I wish I had started there, but you live, you modify, you try, and you learn…

    My advice (if you want what I wanted) is to start where I am now and tweak from there.

    I have a main leaf 2.5” longer than stock. Mine is from BDS research, but any main leaf roughly 2.5” longer would do. The rest of my pack is 4” BDS lift support leafs with the military wrap cut off (wouldn’t fit the new main leaf) and the small bottom leaf removed. I built 2” offset plates to move the axle forward on the leaf pack. However, the net relative to the front eye with the new leafs is only 1” closer due to the new main leaf. I don’t like redrilling springs, especially not front springs. I also have the front spring mount moved forward to the very front of my frame (which ends just forward of the core support mount. On the rear, I moved the stock shackle mount forward about 5” or so to get the shackle angle I wanted. It also goes up a bit as it goes forward due to the frame shape, but I mounted it as low as I could in frame channel. And finally, I have 3/8” custom shackles that measure 7.5” cl to cl.

    Hope that helps…
     
  15. BIGJ

    BIGJ 1/2 ton status Author

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    6 inch lift. The angle really isn't bad b/c of the extra length from the doubler. I don't remember the exact angle though.

    BIGJ
     

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