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IFS to solid axle conversion

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by procomp94, Jun 13, 2002.

  1. procomp94

    procomp94 Registered Member

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    Thinking of going solid axle on my 95. Anybody out there got any tips for me? I'd like to see some pics of a conversion so I can steal some ideas. I want to keep the driver-side diff location so I know an older Chevy axle wont work. This was my wifes idea so I've already got the approval.
     
  2. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    I am drawing a blank but there is a company that makes a bolt on kit for SFA. ORU maybe.
     
  3. procomp94

    procomp94 Registered Member

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    Do you have any clue as to what that kit would cost? I've got a friend with a shop and could fab most of the brackets etc. If you think of who it is shot me a link to their site.
     
  4. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    ORU They list the kit for 750.
     
  5. procomp94

    procomp94 Registered Member

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    Holy S**t!!!!! Thats 750 for just the brackets needed to do the conversion. No springs, No shocks, No steering linkages maybe they have the parts gold plated before they ship them. I guess I better talk to the wife again about this one.
     
  6. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    No thinking, no geometry, no guessing, no welding, no ill handling.

    $750.00 worth spending IMO.

    SFA conversion isnt just welding on a few brackets and hanging an axle. You have to get the steering geometry correct or it will look good sitting in the back yard because it wont be able to be driven. Or worse yet look bad in the junk yard wadded up from where it was rolled.

    Unless you have a decent understanding for at least basic steering geometry, a kit IS the best way to go.
     
  7. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Looks like there are a lot of parts included in that kit. So figure that you're paying $450 for the brackets and $300 for the time it took them how to figure out how to do the swap correctly and share that info with you. /forums/images/icons/cool.gif
     
  8. procomp94

    procomp94 Registered Member

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    The geometry isn't a problem. I used to set up dirt track race cars in New Mexico so I do have a little understanding of that. But I would still have to go with the kit because of the time that would be involved in fabricating everything and most of it would have to be while the truck is torn down. I'm not complaining about the price, it just caught me off guard.
     
  9. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    OK cool. Its just that Joe Average would make an ill handling mess out of it. I have seen more trucks destroyed by someone hacking on the brackets and then not being able to drive it, and noone wanting to open a can o worms to fix it.
     
  10. procomp94

    procomp94 Registered Member

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    another reason why I would go with the kit is because my wife drives it more than I do and if I did screw up on any thing I'd either get her killed or she would have me killed. So I don't think 750 is too much to pay to get the conversion started. I would like to know if any one knows how much (round house numbers) the whole conversion would cost, minus tires.
     
  11. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    You will also need a 70s 3/4 ton Ford axle. (for the leafspring left side housing), swap out to 6 lug hubs for the Ford axle, the springs of your choice, shocks, steering mods. Then lifting the rear, gears to match one end or the other at least.

    Id take a wild stab and say another thousand.
     
  12. procomp94

    procomp94 Registered Member

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    Well that doesn't sound too terribly bad except for the pherd part. I guess if I don't tell any one that the axle came from a pherd I'd be ok /forums/images/icons/grin.gif By the way, did those pherds come with D60's 70's or what? I plan to do a little junk yard shoppin so maybe I can knock down the price a little.
     
  13. ChadH82

    ChadH82 1/2 ton status

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    Good luck finding the axles at a bone yard. You're looking for a 78-79 Ford high pinion d44 or d60. Very rare. I've done the conversion to my truck so if you have any specific questions that haven't been answered I'll try to help.
     
  14. procomp94

    procomp94 Registered Member

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    Yeah I've got a couple q's. First, are the spring perches going to need to be moved? What will I need to do to convert to 6 lug? The truck already has a 6" lift. I'll want to do 2 more, do I get 8" springs or is there going to be height problems because of where the spring hangers are.(not sure if that makes sence)And of course the most famous Q, Do I need a new drive shaft?
     
  15. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    I believe that the bracketry will add 3'' of lift over the said height of the springs. 6'' springs = 9'' lift, 4'' springs = 7'' lift.....
     
  16. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Ford 3/4 ton is D44, 1 ton is a D60. If you want to stay 6 lug youll need a D44 so you can swap out GM spindles. If your 8 lug or want to go 8 lug than you can still get the D44 or D60. The reason you need at least a 3/4 ton is that the F250s had leaf springs in front on them.
     
  17. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    You can also use a J-10/Wagoner front. D44, leaf springs, L/H drop. Only draw back is it is spring under.
     
  18. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Check the link to the magazine story from the ORU website. They used lots of new parts on the one that they did for the story, but it ended up costing an absurd amount of cash when they were finished. /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif I'm sure it could be done cheaper with junkyard parts.

    You will need a new driveshaft. The diff doesn't move on the IFS trucks, so the front driveshaft just has a simple u-joint at each end. A solid axle will 1) move the diff lower than stock and 2) drop even further when the axle drops into holes and such. So you'll need to have a CV joint installed at the t-case end of the shaft.
     
  19. procomp94

    procomp94 Registered Member

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    DUH I guess I could have figured out that if I woul have thought about swaping from a stationary diff to a lower non stationary diff of course I need a new shaft. Guess that was a stupid Q. Also Here is another one I was pondering. How about slappin in a transfer out of an older chevy and going with passenger side drop? Then I could open up more options and most importantly, Keep my GM all GM not looking for parts for a pherd. I know the transfer will bolt up cause the 4L60 is basically the same case as 700R4 and unlike pherds most all of Chevy parts are interchangable /forums/images/icons/smirk.gif
     
  20. jc71355

    jc71355 1/2 ton status

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    I would go with the Older T-Case. I think(not sure) the NP241 was used until they went to the auto-trac. I know my 91 K-5 has a 241. As you said it would make it alot easier finding an axle.

    James
     

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