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ignition mod - toggle switch

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by walleyeman, Jan 17, 2004.

  1. walleyeman

    walleyeman Newbie

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    I need help. Basically my ignition system is crap. The cylinder lock, switch, actuator rod all are bad.

    I have tried replacing them with a toggle switch but did not have any luck today. The toggle switch may not work. It is an on-off-on switch. It doens't have a momentary on so I might need to replace it.

    But first I am having problems with how I should go about hooking up the various wires from the old ignition switch. Here is what I have
    - 2 red wires from fusabel battery link
    - 2 orange wires from choke fuse?
    - 1 brown from radio
    - 1 yellow from neutral safety switch
    - 1 pink from ingnition module
    - 1 tan w/white stripe that is thinner diameter than rest of wires not sure from where it came?

    Any ideas how the wires should be rigged up.

    Thanks for all the help



    -----------------------------
    1984 GMC Jimmy
    350 Goodwrench
    700R4
     
  2. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    First, I am impressed. First post AND a member!! WELCOME!!
    wish i could help!! Might be easier to fix column than to try and rewire it. Fill out your Bio, you might find someone near you that can help or may have a column. I have an extra with a broken tilt I have been using for parts. All the ignition stuff is still on it. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    You'll need at least a couple of switches. One to turn on power to the truck and another to fire up the starter. Your on-off-on switch turns OFF the circuit on one side while turning ON the circuit on the other. So when the starter is on, the igintion is off, and vice versa. It won't start like that. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

    A new lock cylinder is less than $20. I don't think an ignition switch costs too much either. I would just fix what is already there rather than try to figure out how to circumvent the factory switch. The factory switch has a few different circuits in it. Some parts of the truck get power in the ACC position, while others don't. In the START position nearly everything else in the truck gets switched off while the starter is cranking, then powered back up once you release the key into the RUN position.
     
  4. walleyeman

    walleyeman Newbie

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    I had planned to keep it original but the actuator arm gave me a lot of problems.

    I scapped the toggle switch idea. I picked up a universal ignition switch/lock cylinder. The switch has three terminals - batt -ACC -IGN.

    I need help with which wires exactley are connected to which terminals.
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Ignition switch is $10, I had to replace mine this year.
     
  6. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    you can fix it all with a column out of parts truck, not hard to do, ill have a good column i can sell cheap soon when the shortfleet get here, i would not mess with wires and hack them all up, you will wish you didnt


    good luck
     
  7. walleyeman

    walleyeman Newbie

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    I do have a parts truck next to the garage with a good column. How hard of a project is it to remove the column?
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I do have a parts truck next to the garage with a good column. How hard of a project is it to remove the column?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    15 minutes if you've done it before, maybe an hour if you haven't.
     
  9. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    Took me a total of 50mins takin column out of parts truck and outta my truck and puttin in parts truck column, and swap steering wheels.
     

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