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I'm such a dumbass... Fuel tank issues... and other venting that needs to be done...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by PhoenixZorn, Sep 9, 2005.

  1. PhoenixZorn

    PhoenixZorn 1/2 ton status

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    So, I filled my tank today on the new 70 k5, and realized after a few hours of sitting, that the tank was leaking. So, I ordered a gas tank from the local NAPA and they brought it over as soon as they could. In the meantime, I started taking apart the gas tank on the Blazer, making sure to rip the crap out of the dry rotted hoses that I now need to replace, and then finding that the tank isn't only the wrong size, but in no way will fit between the frame rails of my truck. It's entirely my fault of course, I ordered a tank from a 73 thinking I could make it fit. So now my truck sits in my shop with no gas tank, and the one I bought is boxed up and ready to ship back to NAPA. I ordered a new and proper tank from LMC Truck, then called my neighbor to come pick me up.

    After a beer or two, my neighbor divulged to me that there are gas tank repair kits, which is basically advanced Bondo, and that it would cost me about $10.00 to fix my leaky tank. Well, that would have been nice to know 5 hours ago, I wouldn't have even needed to drop the tank. So now, I have to call LMC, cancel my tank order and change it to straps only, find a piece of hose to fit the part I ripped out because of dry rot, Topel rig the old straps to work for a few days, and hopefully finish everything by 11am tomorrow so I can drive it an hour away from home to my cousin's wedding and show it off... yeah, I know it's her day, but **** that... it'll be my day too.

    The worse thing is, I asked a couple of my mechanics if there was anything I could do to fix the tank (even called another shop to see if they could fix it) and everyone said no... Amazing that a lowly farmer knows that there is a putty/catalyst combo that he's used many times to patch tanks, yet 5+ mechanics don't know their ear from their asshole. It's not like they are making money off of me by telling me no, I do my own work and pay cost for parts.... Anyway, I should have that done tomorrow, and the body mounts done by the end of next week so the damn thing stops squeaking all the time.

    On top of everything else, I found after closer inspection than I did before I bought the truck, that one of the U-Bolts broke at one time on the rear axle and was welded to the axle for support. I also need to replace the shocks through the whole truck, and more than likely do a thermostat, waterpump, serp belt, heater core change due to heat issues in the cab... the engine is staying cool I think, but it sure does blow some heat into the front seats. All the heater and defrost functions are off as well as the heater fan, but it still bows hot air in from the motor. My wife has also already complained about the smell of blowby, which makes her and my kid very sick, also which I've found is a result of running fairly rich when I'm just running 2 barrels, let alone 4 barrels.

    Sorry it's so long, I had to vent before I go to bed, and my wife is sleeping... :haha: :haha:
     
  2. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    Stay away from those gas tank repair kits. My K5 had a leaky gas tank shortly after I bought it. I patched it with some gas tank puddy from NAPA and it leaked after a few months. I patched it again and again until finally just yanked it out and put a fuel cell in. With that truck being so old it will probably develop another leak sometime down the road. Just my .02 ;)
     
  3. PhoenixZorn

    PhoenixZorn 1/2 ton status

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    Aye, but the point was that I could do a quick fix in about an hour instead of a 4 hour tank swap without disconnecting the tank from the truck... I needed to be able to drive it ASAP and couldn't wait for the new tank to get here. After the patch, it still has a slow leak from the same hole, so I'll likely need to repatch it already, but at least its slower than it was before. I didn't really want to spend $250.00 on parts the day after I bought the thing.... let me wait a month or two before I start blowing all my hard earned money on rebuilding the undercarriage.

    I think a good $500-600 will get the whole chassis clean and solid again. Need 4 new ubolts for the axles, need u-joints front and rear, tranny mount (again... didn't I do that on the 86?). cross member for the tub that sits on the frame, and a body mount kit. I'm going to be using the springs from the 86, and I'll need new shocks, but those are only $20.00 each, maybe less at cost.

    Anyway, hopefully, I can have everything done in time for next year's Blazer Bash... =)
     
  4. Blazer1970

    Blazer1970 1/2 ton status

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    Most radiator shops do gas tank repairs. Take it in and they will fix it up good as new.
     
  5. Leper

    Leper 1/2 ton status

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    Beat me 2 it
     
  6. wazzabie

    wazzabie 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Interesting.. do they weld on the tank?
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Patches are not permanent..

    I've used fiberglass cloth and resin to patch gas tanks,as well as the putty crap they sell as ":gas tank repair",and fiberglass bondo,epoxy,etc..none lasted more than a few months,and I ended up having to buy a new tank,or in the case of my 72 Chevelle wagon I had ,that NO tank was available for, new or used,had to have it soldered..

    A body shop guy with brass nuggets shot a CO2 fire extinguisher in the tank after I drained and flushed it out,and proceeded to solder it with body solder and a propane torch! :eek1: --when I stood 200 ft away,he laughed and said he also used a hose from a tailpipe to "fumigate" the tank so it couldn't explode while soldering it in yers past,until he learned the fire extinguisher trick..I wouldn't reccomend either method--a radiator shop will "hot tank" it first to get ALL the gas and vapors out..most of the tanks I had soldered developed more pinhole leaks shortly thereafter.. :doah:

    I know the stuff Eastwood sells and POR-15 does too that lines the inside of the tank with a porcelain coating works fairly well,but I'd bite the bullet and get a brand new tank if its possible--my 72 K5 needed a new tank--it was almost 200 for a new one in 1985!--but I got lucky and found a 6 month old one in a K5 someone got T boned in not long after the new tank was installed--still cost me 100 bucks,and a long ride to get it though..Patching old rusty tanks is a waste of effort,time and money in my opinion...

    Maybe its time to install a plastic tank!--I've used marine style tanks in many trucks,they are available in many shapes and sizes,and are not as costly as metal OEM style tanks..and being plastic,they never rust or dent!..you can only use them on older non-emission carbed vehicles though,and the sending unit requires a matching gauge--wont "jive" with a GM gauge.. :doah: :crazy:
     
  8. 3 on the tree

    3 on the tree 1/2 ton status

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    The guys I have weld tanks, just fill them up with water. That exacuates all the fumes.
     
  9. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    ya think??

    I thought filling the tank with water worked too--until I had a lawnmower tank take off like a rocket when it blew up in my face and landed 100 ft away in my backyard! :eek1: --I had dumped out all the stale gas and flushed it out with my garden hose at least twice too..I was attempting to braze in a few holes,as soon as the metal turned red--BOOM! :eek1: glad it didnt hit me!--..yet I've watched others do the same on a tank that still had gas in it,and purged it with tailpipe fumes from a running motor while brazing it,and nothing hapenned! :confused: ...just lucky I guess.. :p:

    One old timer I knew who could fix anything showed me a neat trick--if the leak is on the side or bottom of the tank,drain it out,sand it clean BY HAND so no sparks occour,and heat up a penny with a propane torch,(using pliers to hold it of course! :rolleyes: )and apply a generous coating of solder to it--and while its still liquid,apply it to the leaky spot and press firmly(helps if you use flux for soldering steel on the tank first)--it will stick and seal up the leaks!..worked on my 63 VW beetle tank the whole 2 years I had it!.. :laugh:
     

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