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Injector probs

Discussion in '1982-Present GM Diesel' started by tRustyK5, Apr 10, 2003.

  1. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Well, the 6.2 is running kinda bad the last few days and it smokes like a train when it's cold now. It's always smoked when cold (more than normal I think.../forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif) but now it's ridiculous.

    As soon as it drops down from fast idle it runs rough too, I think only 7 cylinders are firing. I've had a slight leak at one injector since I got the motor in...is it possible that the injector is causing all my troubles now?

    I'm pretty frustrated at the moment. I think I'm going to pick up a beater Toyota to get me to work and back so I can get my truck up to snuff. I have a few issues to deal with and driving it daily just makes it twice as hard to work on.

    Here is my plan...

    Compression test. I think I should have done this first, but I can't go back in time so I think this should be done before sinking another dollar into it. All the rest of my plan is based on the results of this...

    If the compression is OK (What is acceptable compression anyways?) I'll replace my injectors and bump the timing a hair.

    Heater core is leaking, I lose maybe 1/4 cup of coolant onto my floor overnight (heat soak after shut down bumping the pressure up just enough maybe?)

    If the compression isn't OK...I guess I'll be scouting the yards or possibly doing a rebuild.

    Rene
     
  2. arveetek

    arveetek 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds to me like your timing is way low. Advance the pump a bit and replace the leaking injector and then see how she runs. A rebuilt stock injector costs me $24.95 US locally. The timing chain stretches over time, so the timing probably needs to be adjusted anyway. I'd do this first. Plus, it will give you more power.

    Compression numbers vary from engine to engine, but I believe that you want at least 300 psi. 350-450 is the "good" range, with probably 400 psi being average. Remember to crank the engine over at least 6 times to get an accurate check of compression. Remove all the glow plugs when doing this test, instead of one at a time.

    Casey
     
  3. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    It does have way more power when it's cold (timing advanced and on high idle)

    Compression test first, then we'll see I guess. Thanks Casey!/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    rene
     
  4. doctor4x4

    doctor4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Rene
    Well according to the manual compression on the 6.2 stock should be 350-375 and the book recomends rebuild on any thing under 320 as its gets very hard to start then due to low compression
    do you have the guage ok to test ???
    and yea i agree just replace your 1 leaky injector first and see if that help solve ( on top of ole smoky )
    hope all is cool and if ya need any pages coppied and sent from the true gm manuel just let me know
    Randy
     
  5. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I don't have a compression tester yet...

    Thanks for the offer to scan some pages of the GM manual, I might take you up on that./forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif The Haynes one isn't bad but I'm sure the GM one is more comprehensive!

    Rene
     
  6. BlueBlazer

    BlueBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    Did you crack the injector line connections to narrow down the problem cylinder? If you can narrow it down to one cylinder, have that injector tested or replaced assuming the there is good compression. If you cant narrow it down cause all the cylinders are running bad, you might want to first make sure your idle speed is correct. I dont think its a timing issue unless the chain is really loose, and usually retarded timing will cause an increase in black smoke when under load. As you mentioned a compression test would be good to do.
     
  7. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Well right now it's getting parked so I don't have to look at for a while. I'm at the point where I'd likely just replace all the injectors, get a rebuilt pump etc etc just out of frustration and impatience. I now have a beater to drive for the meantime, so that helps...

    At any rate the compression test has to be done first, then we'll go from there. I have one injector that has had a drip since I got the motor in, and I think 3 more that are weepy where the lines attaches to em. I'll post my compression test numbers and whatever else I find when I get that far and try and figure out exactly what is wrong and fix it right.

    I can tell you the idle speed was good even when it began starting to run bad, and my oil pressure hasn't changed any either. When cold it ran at about 800 or so and I could hear the timing was slightly advanced, then it would drop down as it warmed up and it would get quieter, I'd estimate the warm idle to be around 650 or so.

    Rene
     
  8. azblazor

    azblazor 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I now have a beater to drive for the meantime, so that helps...
    Rene

    [/ QUOTE ]

    What did you get??
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I picked up an 89 Mercury Sable. Black, red guts, 3.8, full load...everything works except the heater/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gifPaint is original and still looks pretty decent, good tires and brakes, the AC even works still. Car has ~90,000 on it...

    I got it for $300 (US)

    It's perfect for work and back every day while I tinker with my truck.

    Rene
     
  10. Tybee

    Tybee 1/2 ton status

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    Doesnt sound like a beater. Wish I could find something like that down here for the price! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  11. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    It doesn't look like a beater either/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif Time will tell, I've heard these cars have weak trannies. So far this one seems to shift pretty normal (for a Furd anyways)

    Rene
     
  12. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Have fun fixing the heater (especially if the core is no good).
    Those things are a royal PITA. I had to drop the column and dash on my late 80's taurus when mine went. The dealer wanted $600-$700 USD to do it. I said F-that and did it myself, but now I know why they get what they do. It's not technically a hard job, but there were a zillion screws, bolts, fasteners, vacuum lines, etc. etc.
    I also had it easy because the AC in mine didn't work, so I just took and cut the hardlines at the firewall (which have to be disconnected otherwise....which means recharging when finished).

    I hope it's something simple for you.....or the weather stays warm /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  13. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I think the core is plugged, it doesn't leak and all I get is cold air. The other possibilty is that the divertor door isn't operational. The weather is fine enough that I'm in no rush.

    My number one fix at the moment is a non operational electric fan for the rad...gonna look at that today.

    Rene
     

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