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Installing a harmonic balancer??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by TB2Blazer, Oct 24, 2004.

  1. TB2Blazer

    TB2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Just wondering whats the easiest way to re-install a harmonic balancer on a 350 because it was hard getting it off with a puller I have no idea how to put it back on.
     
  2. leadfoot067

    leadfoot067 1/2 ton status

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    well there is a tool just for this purpose...i got mine from the snap -on truck,if you dont otherwise have access to this tool then a big hammer is your only other option,although definately not the correct way but it works.....if ya gotta use a hammer,make sure you use a piece of wood or metal to pound on so your not hitting the balancer directly /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  3. kyser_soze

    kyser_soze 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    well there is a tool just for this purpose...i got mine from the snap -on truck,if you dont otherwise have access to this tool then a big hammer is your only other option,although definately not the correct way but it works.....if ya gotta use a hammer,make sure you use a piece of wood or metal to pound on so your not hitting the balancer directly /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]DO NOT strike the balance with a metal hammer stike only the wood block, better yet, try a rubber mallot or a dead blow hammer directly on the balancer directly, with light blows in a circular manor until it seats then you can use your ratchet and torque wrench. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Driving the balancer on with a hammer deadblow or otherwise hammers the crap out of the thrust washer. /forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif
    Not a good idea.
    I have done it that way though. But that is not the way to do it.
    Trying to crank the damper on with a bolt is a pretty sure bet that you will have to beat it on with a hammer as that can and will pull the threads right out of the snout.
    The Snap on set is nice but pretty spendy for a blue moon tool.
    I have a bunch that I made from longer grade 8 bolts that I ran threads all the way up.
    thread a nut all the way up and install the bolt with the washer with a dab of grease between em.
    run the nut down till the damper is seated.
    About $1.50 for a nut and bolt and a few minutes to cut the threads.
    The damper is installed without much effort and nothing is damaged.
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    THERE IS A TOOL FOR THIS. Autozone rents one, FREE! GET IT!!!!
     
  6. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Why borrow when I can make my own for next to nothing.
    Some stores do have tools to use, and some are not easily fabbed up.
    But a damper installer is cheap and easy to make. I've prolly installed 50 dampers with that same $1.50 nut and bolt.
    And I don't have to take it back when I am done with it.
    /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  7. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Just make sure you have enough threads engaged,at least a half inch of threads--the crank snout is rather easy to strip.
    I didnt use a tool to install the balancer on my 305 I put in my 79 C10 because someone had already stripped out the threads in the crank,and re tapped it to 1/2-13 thread.Since the motor was on my engine stand,I was able to wedge a peice of steel between the back of the crank and the stand,then I could hammer away without fear of destroying the thrust bearing surface on the rear main bearing.If the motor is out of the truck you can also stand it up on the bellhousing end,resting on the crank,and pound it on--its not the right way,but in the real world,its often the ONLY way!!.For the record,I have installed a few in the vehicle with a BFH,but not by choice--and I always feared it would rap when the job was done--so far so good--but use the tool if at all possible. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     

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