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Installing Detroitin 14bff; are these the correct steps?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by fortcollinsram, Nov 20, 2002.

  1. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    This weekend I am going to install a Detroit in my 14BFF..I just needt o make sure I have all the steps down..I have read and re-read the install on offroad.com but it is a little vague in a few areas...

    <ul type="square">[*]Remove diff. cover and axle shafts
    [*]mark the carrier bearing caps as to side and position
    [*]scribe the carrier bearing cap bolts so they can be installed in the same position that they were removed
    [*]Remove the carrier bearing cap bolts, counting the number of turns
    [*]remove the ring gear and carrier
    [*]remove the ring gear bolts and separate the carrier
    [*]install the detroit in place of the spider gears
    [*]assemble carrier and install ring gear
    [*]place carrier in case and install bearning caps and bolts
    [*]tighten bolts the same number of turns as counted when removing
    [*]install cover and axles and fill w/ gear oil
    [/list]

    so do I have the steps correct or what? I just wanna make sure that I don't screw anything up...
    Thasnks a lot gang
    Chris
     
  2. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Looks about right, but I'd just use a torque wrench on the cap bolts when you reinstall them rather than going through the scribing thing. 135 lb/ft. You're going to need a torque wrench for the ring gear bolts anyways. 120 lb/ft on those. I'd also recommend loosening the ring gear bolts before removing the carrier, it's a lot easier since you can just put the truck in gear and use the pinion to hold the carrier in place while you loosen them. Much easier than trying to hold the carrier in place on the workbench while putting that kind of force on a bolt. Same thing when torqueing them, install the carrier then torque the bolts.</font color>
     
  3. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    Sweet...I didn't even think about the torque wrench...I will do that...Thanks

    Chris
     
  4. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    The cap bolts aren't what you need to count the number of turns on. Once you're inside it will make more sense, but there are no shims for the carrier bearings in a 14-bolt FF. Instead there are adjusters that are threaded into the housing. There is a bolt near each one that holds a wire clip in place that keeps them from backing off once they're adjusted. Mark those adjusters, remove the clips and then count EXACTLY how much you back off each of the adjusters. When you put it back together you want to put them back where they were before you started. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    One bit of advice.... It helps to leave the bearing caps loosely in place as you loosen the adjusters. Because once the bearings are loose, that carrier wants to just fall out of the housing. And that sucker is HEAVY! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Leaving the caps in place will catch it before it falls out on the ground. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  5. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    Chris:

    I will also be installing my Detroit in my 14bff this weekend (if the damn customs office in my country releases the locker, that is)

    You might want to stay in touch via email or MSN messenger(email and MSN user: pixel at intelnet.net.gt) so we can ask questions each other. Two heads think better than one /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif. I have a digital camera so I can send pics as I'm progressing.
     
  6. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> I guess I need to learn to read a bit better. I can't beleive I missed that, I just had my 14 bolt apart last weekend. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif </font color>
     
  7. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    So the adjusters are the round "sleeve" that is threaded into the axle housing on the left and the right of the carrier berarings? Is it the one that has all the holes in it? And the bolt and wire clip in the center of the bearing cap is what keeps this for moving, correct? So, I wil have to use a small screw driver or something to rotate the adjuster counter-clockwise so they are recessed in the housing more so I can remove the carrier? I thnk this makes sense...

    Thanks Harry

    Chris
     
  8. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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  9. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    Finsihed my install!!

    It only took about 2-3 hours. Very straightforward. The only problem that stopped me from putting the carrier back into the housing is that I'm going to replace the carrier bearings. I'll have to wait 'til monday to find new ones and a hydraulic press.

    They might work fine for some time, but I don't want to open them again in 20 years, so I'll simply replace them now. One has a little play and the other one needle housing is bent. Anybody know the Timken part number?

    Edit: Special thanks to Harry and Shaggy for the tips, it really made removing the carrier easy, especially the tip about loosening the ring bolts while still installed.
     
  10. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    Yea, I did mine today to...it took about 2 hours from start to finish...it was one of the easiest mods I have ever done...My bearings were in great shape so I just bolted it all back together...and I love the traction I have.. it is awesome...best $300 I have spent on my truck right next to the 14bff disc brakes /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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