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Interchangeable parts? Best Year?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Webslinger, Jul 2, 2001.

  1. Webslinger

    Webslinger Newbie

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    Hello all - I am new to the site. Over the last six months, I have become very interested in the full convertible K5 Blazers and am looking into purchasing one. I would like to know from the knowledge on this board if there is a best model year to buy. I am looking into anywhere from 73-75. Is that standard? What parts would be interchangeable from other years? I would only probably be able to afford a fixer-upper - anything I should look out for except the obvious leaks and rust? I'd appreciate any and all knowledge you might have on the subject , and you may reply here or directly to my email address. Thanks in advance...
     
  2. xtreme_wlr

    xtreme_wlr 1/2 ton status

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    If you stick with any of the '73 on up years, you are good to go on parts interchangability. That way you have the largest number of years that you can get parts from and they dont have to come off just K5s. Truck parts will work on them too. Unless you are talking body parts from the door back that is :) Front sheet metal and all of the drivetrain parts are interchangable.

    78 Chevy 1 ton Stepside RockCrawler
    468 BB, SM465, NP205
    D60 front, GM 14Bolt w/ Detroit
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bowtiecrawler.com>http://www.bowtiecrawler.com</A>
     
  3. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    I would look for a 73 because in some states they are emissons exempt so you dont have to bother with that stuff. As for the interchangablity I'm pretty sure that you can swap in a drivetrain(axles, trannies, t-cases, engines etc) from all the 73-91 trucks

    Murphy's Laws on Life :
    "The longer you wait in line, the greater the liklihood that you are standing in the wrong line." [​IMG]
     
  4. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    chev frames suck, check all crossmembers to see how tight the rivets are, look for rust bleeding.
    common crack points
    1- the frame around under the steering box
    2- engine crossmember under the fuel pump area
    3- rear shock mounts tear out of the frame and some repair jobs are ugly
    4- my old 1/2 ton frame had cracks about directly below firewall
     
  5. 502Burban

    502Burban 1/2 ton status

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    Since you live in California, like I do, your best bet will probably be a 1973. This would exempt you from having to deal with smog checks. Although I don't believe in driving a polluting vehicle, I just didn't want to pay the taxman every 2 years so that they can tell me that I have to have a smog pump and vacuum advance distributor to stay smog clean.

    With the digital fuel injection system I'm running, I'll have cleaner tailpipe emissions than anything they built in '73, but they would still fail me because I don't have the "proper" equipment. Who needs that hassle?

    If you stay with the '73, you won't have to worry. And if you like the looks of the later models, you can always swap the front clip. Just my 2-cents worth.[​IMG]

    Robb
    '73 GMC Suburban - 502DFI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://community.webshots.com/user/robbrj>http://community.webshots.com/user/robbrj</A>
     
  6. Jason73K5

    Jason73K5 1/2 ton status

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    '73 is the way to go here in California!
     
  7. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    No smog to worry about!!




    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://community.webshots.com/user/vwryda>http://community.webshots.com/user/vwryda</A>
     
  8. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I was going to say '75 because by then there are a lot more options on them including the 400cid engine and they are generally nicer. But if the smog thing is a real factor, go w/73 if it helps. BTW, I have a '73, and if I remember correctly, the door innards are different from any other year. I could prolly swap them out for a newer one tho. All I know is the windows in mine don't roll up/down worth a crap. Always use one hand to pull/push and one hand to turn crank.
     
  9. AussieK5

    AussieK5 1/2 ton status

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    I was wondering wether I had a 73, 74, 75 (no VIN plate), now I know, I need two hands to wind mine up too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Must be a 73.
     
  10. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Hard tops in 73 were prone to cracks. It was changed mid way through 74. The way to tell the top appart is the newer top the seams over lap. the older version just butted together. If your planning on ditching the hard top then this will be of little concern.
    As for emmisions. as long as it wasn't a Cali model don't worry about it. Cats on the 48 state version didn't show up till 78 and the only emmisions on them is a PCV valve through 75.
    RUST! look for rusted out floors. You got to crawl under the thing and check the floors and rocker boxes. GM did a horrible job on rust prevention. The link in my sig has some pictures of how bad the rust can be on these trucks.

    It's not my damn planet monkey boy!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s>http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s</A>

    Grim-Reaper
     

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