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Intereior roll cage?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BamBamblazer, Jan 25, 2003.

  1. BamBamblazer

    BamBamblazer 1/2 ton status

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    I have an 86 k5 that i want to put a rol cage in. My question is this, i have seen 4 to 12 point roll cages for sale at jegs or summit for 73-87 k10's but not for k5's. Will the 4 point cage for a k10 (assuming it's an interior cage) come close to fitting in a k5? I would figure that windshield hoop and the main hoop as well as the spreader bars should be about the same. Has anyone tried this or would i be better off just getting one custom bent?
     
  2. Highlander

    Highlander 1/2 ton status

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    You mite want to look at Echobit they have a full cage setup and the price isn't to bad.


    Eric
     
  3. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    I am going with a Smittybuilt cage. I have the roll bar part of it installed... will do the interior parts of the cage when I get the time. The cage is designed for my 85 so it oughta fit np... and it was pretty cheap. I am going to add some extra gusseting + more tube to it as needed. It'll be plenty strong and way cheaper than if I had someone build a 100% custom cage.

    j
     
  4. milspecjimmy

    milspecjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    ditto on the smitty built. thats the cage i am going with also. its like 380 for the whole thing with minor cutting if any. i got a price from a local who does race cars, he told me that if i brought it to him with the top off so he could work easier it would cost me 750-900 for a basic 6 point cage. and he does an entire stock car for 250 with an 8 point cage. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
     
  5. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color="blue">I also have the Smittybilt cage. I haven't installed the front part yet, when I do I will add a seat frame and some more tube then tie it to the frame. If it's not tied to the frame, its pretty much just there for looks
     
  6. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Does anybody have pics of how they attached their cage to the frame? How they went through the floor pans? Just looking for ideas on how I want to do mine and how to isolate the vibration from the body. I've seen some cages where the tube passes through the floor and doesn't touch the sheet metal. Anybody have pics of something like that?
     
  7. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    i disagree on the idea that a cage not tied to the frame is useless. If it is well designed, well assembled, attaches to plenty of places on the body, and the body is in good shape, then its probably sufficient for off-road use. Im not talking about flying off the freeway at 80 mph... I'm talking about low speed roll overs likely to happen during normal offroad driving.

    j
     
  8. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    NHRA and many other sanctioned forms of racing DO NOT require the cages to be attached to the frame. The cage is for driver protection, they don't care about the frame as long as the driver is surrounded. Many builders will attach it to frame to stiffen the frame and reduce flex. many "race" vehicle's are built on tube type frames and there for attached to cages. I attached my roll cage to the frame in 2 places under the front floor pan. Where the plates are welded to floor for front bars, I went from the bottom of that plate to the frame rail. The main reason I did this is because I had to use a body lift. the last truck I hammered on busted the bodymounts and shifted the body. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  9. bablazer73

    bablazer73 1/2 ton status

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    I buy my cages from S@W race cars. They say their kit is for both. it fit my blazer fine. If you use in a truck, you have to trim the main hoop down. [​IMG]
     
  10. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    If you run large plates at the floor, run cage tubes between the main hoop and the front hoop, and run crossbars from those to mount your seats to. Then you and the cage stay together if you go over. And with the bar run along the top of the floorpan and across it at the seats the pan should stay under you if you roll.
     
  11. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />

    i disagree on the idea that a cage not tied to the frame is useless. If it is well designed, well assembled, attaches to plenty of places on the body, and the body is in good shape, then its probably sufficient for off-road use. Im not talking about flying off the freeway at 80 mph... I'm talking about low speed roll overs likely to happen during normal offroad driving.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I agree. The only gain with going to the frame is that you take flex out of the frame. As long as you go to solid mointing points like over cab supports your fine. If I'm in a roll so voiolent as to want the frame to rip free from the body then let it. I'll be IN the cage with about 2500lb less weight tossing it around once the frame cuts loose. That means when it lands on it's lid less weight to distort the cage.
    As to mounting points: I HATE TOP OF FENDERS!!!!!!!!!!! no supoort. they will crush like a beer cans at a frat party. Front legs right on top of the front cab suports. middle legs right on top of the middle cab mounts and rear legs all the way to the back to take advantage of the strength of the tail pan body suport. When I did my cage my tail pan was toast and I replaced it with a peice of 7x2 C channel. If it lands on it's lid then it has to drive that peice of C-Channel through the frame becauseThe rear legs sit on it. A C channle of a 2x2 with mounting pads can be put under the rear of any K5 just in front of the tail pan. Just need to lift the body enough to slide it under. You can add a second brace on the 73-77 the same way if you wanted to just behind the cab suport
    When I replace my floors in my 75 I built a sub frame out of 1x2 that ties into the cab mounts and rockers. The front and middle legs of the cage mount to it so my seat is connected to the rool cage as well but from below. Before the cage my doors would jam shut when flexed. Now the doors operat free from the extra strenght the cage gave the body.
     
  12. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    i will be getting the s&amp;w also.im going to get them to extend the rear legs so it will attach to the floor instead of the wheel wells.on the issue of the 4 point truck k10 cage.it will probably be just a rear hoop and front down bars.in which case you will also want to get some rear bars also increasing the cost of putting in the cage.
     
  13. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    why get the s&amp;w and then get new rear legs for the thing? the smitty's legs already reach behind the wheel wells with no mods required.

    j
     
  14. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    th s&amp;w is 100 dollars cheaper and i am going to call them first and see if they will build it that way for me at the same price.
     
  15. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    you must live closer to the S&amp;W bubbas than I do. Shipping was incredibly expensive for me way out here in WA... the S&amp;W more expensive than the smitty if I remember right. Of course, I got a pretty good price on the smitty at 4wpw.

    at any rate, I think either one is a good foundation for a K5 cage.

    j
     
  16. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    i can et them to ship it truck freight to where i work so shipping will be cheaper than usual.
     

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