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Inverting springs = bad?? and a few bump stop questions...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by TruckNutzDude, May 2, 2005.

  1. TruckNutzDude

    TruckNutzDude 1/2 ton status

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    I finally found a mound of dirt to test my suspension and found that without bump stops in the back I can invert my 64" springs even with the overload. I also found out I can touch my firewall with no problems when turning the front while stuffed. Good thing my zero rates are on the way! What are some ways you guys have put bumps on your rigs? I noticed the stock location won't work since I have 2" blocks. Can I add onto the spring pads or is there a better way?

    Also, will I most likely need a shim when I push the front axle foreward with zero rates on my 6" BDS springs? I'm thinking a 3* shim should do.
     
  2. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    Inverting spring is the quickest way to wear them out.
     
  3. TruckNutzDude

    TruckNutzDude 1/2 ton status

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    I noticed, I'm already sitting an inch lower than I was this morning... but that may be because this setup has never been wheeled and it's finally settling in. :confused:
     
  4. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    if they are used springs, thats not likely the case. You likely weakend them a little bit by stressing them like that. Not good.
     
  5. TruckNutzDude

    TruckNutzDude 1/2 ton status

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    I've seen some pictures of the new style pyramid bump stops in some mag's, who makes those? I'm thinking they're a better alternative to the old poly ones with the gaps between them. I really don't feel like whooping my springs too much. I thought the clamps were going to let go with the way those leaves were twisting. The flex was incredible though :D
     
  6. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    Can't help with where to put them, but I would set them up so that when compressed to 1/2 their original height you still have a little positive arch left in the spring.
    Eric at Deaver Spring me exactly what Sled said; Inverting a spring is the fastest way to kill them. One of my fellow LocosMocos found that his Dez race springs lasted a LOT longer if he set that bumps so that they never could go completely flat.
     
  7. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    yeah, i think it'd be best to set your stops so that when the spring is starting to go negative, 25-50% of the bump stop height has been used up. A little negative arch is ok, but you definitely want to start slowing it down as soon as its going negative. I think some peeps crawl up a RTI ramp to max compression and setting the stops just a bit higher and think they are fine... what you need to consider is what happens when/if you jump your rig or the front end comes down HARD and damn nearly flattens your bump stops. You don't want your leaves snapping into pieces at the same time. ;)

    j
     
  8. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    I have killed my 6" rear TC springs in nothing flat due to a combination of no usable bumpstops, no shocks, and axlewrap from torque. I am lucky to get 3" of lift out of a set of 6" springs.

    Harley
     
  9. rcurrier44

    rcurrier44 1/2 ton status

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    This is a very common mis-statement considering stock front springs are inverted just sitting there. I'm sure there is a angle of deflection that would better define the point at witch you are perminatly deforming the spring steel...but I don't know what that is. I usualy set my bump stops for 4-6" of uptravil depending on how long the spring is. A longer spring can deflect farther without hurting it.

    Twisting the spring and axle wrap are also VERY hard on springs.
     

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