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Is a 383cu a good idea?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by MontanaLifted, Sep 9, 2002.

  1. MontanaLifted

    MontanaLifted 1/2 ton status

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    I was told that if you stroke a 350 out to a 383 you'll wear it out real quick. I don't know thats why I'm asking.
    What is the downside to strokin'?
    I'll be building a 350cu this spring for my truck but since I'll be in there should I just stroke it?
     
  2. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    I thought it was... /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

    I was told the early high-nickel blocks do well.

    Mine was only .20 out with over 130k. But I could not get .20 383 pistons. So I told my machinist to go .30

    I think I will buy a (someone's not necessarily GM's) crate motor next time though.

    Good luck.
     
  3. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Why will making it a 383 wear it out quicker? Did they give you specific reasons?

    I have one my friend built in an 89 Heavy Half. It runs great but is still fairly new.....
     
  4. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    Depends on what rods you use. If you use the 5.7" rods, you should last as long as any built 355. The problem of wear comes about when 5.56" rods are used. Those are the rods that 400s came with. The short rods create a higher side load, and thus wearing the bores out faster.

    What are you making the motor for? 383s are good for low end lugging, but 377s are better for full tilt a$$-kicking (400 block and 350 stroke crank). A big bore and short stroke make for a very quick motor that won't run out of breath as fast. The only catch is that you have to keep it wound, which isn't going to happen if your climbing. Mud dragging is another story though.
     

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