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is it safe to wheel w/lift blocks?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by cochino12, Jul 23, 2004.

  1. cochino12

    cochino12 1/2 ton status

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    Maybe a dumb question but I am real new to 4wds and really dont know. They dont look safe to me, I bought blocks til I could afford to buy rear springs. So can I tow, wheel with these things?
     
  2. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    yes you can but only in the rear NEVER in the front /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    I had 4" blocks in my 79 k5 and wheeled the snot out of ti at the coast and in mud, never had a problem. My 89 burb has em and i have never wheled it but I have towed withit many times with no problems.

    Just check the u bolts before you go wheeling the 1st couple times and you'll be fine
     
  4. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    seems like a lot of people on this site run 1" front blocks
     
  5. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    seems like a lot of people on this site run 1" front blocks

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I assume you mean the zero-rates... aren't they different from blocks, in that they're (1) solid and (2) keyed to the spring pin?

    -- a
     
  6. surpip

    surpip 1 ton status

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    yes much different than lift blocks
     
  7. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    a block is a block

    my rear 2" lift blocks are solid steel
    no more likely to spit out then if they were held by the center pin
    *edit= which they are unless the ubolts loosen off nearly half an inch to get the head of the centre pin to lift out of the block
     
  8. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    Zero rates bolt into the spring pack, so the bolt goes all the way through them. That is the difference.
     
  9. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Blocks get a bad name from idiots not getting them setup properly or using blocks that are way too tal or what not. Many factory HD trucks come with blocks. Some of the 3/4 and 1 ton dodges come factory with a 4" block in the rear! I have 4" blocks under the rear of my K5 and wouldn't do anything else, been through tons of mud and more importantly I have pulled on crap out on asphalt with the tires spinning a bit without any wrap or hopping. Never had an issue towing either.
     
  10. 81jimmyslt

    81jimmyslt 1/2 ton status

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    this is the crap that makes blocks dangerous, poor design, weak materials, and stacking /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. GMCLegacy

    GMCLegacy 1/2 ton status

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    i agree with mj, a block is a block

    how much strength does that small center pin really add? especially compared to the the u-bolts.

    plain and simple, if you u-bolts arent torqued correctly, the block is going to [darn] out regardless.
     
  12. surpip

    surpip 1 ton status

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    does annybody listen to the crap this guy spewes out? if you think for a second that Stephen Watson would design anything unsafe and market it to people like us than your a retard, and no its not a block, it is an add a leaf, by design. And ps if all your gonna do is come to this board and talk crap at least pony up the 25 bucks for a membership, ya cheapass /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
     
  13. GMCLegacy

    GMCLegacy 1/2 ton status

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    i didnt mean to put mr watson down,

    in fact, i made some home brewed "zero rates" for my rig i used to have. i had no problems, but i torqued the daylights out of the u-bolts since i did not trust the center bolts to withstand any abuse.

    am i scared of blocks in the rear...not a bit. i had a 3/4 "zero rate" in the front of my wheeling rig and also had no problems.

    you would not get me to drive the rig that is pictured above. but it probably only gets driven on and off the trailer.
     
  14. GMCLegacy

    GMCLegacy 1/2 ton status

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    so to get back to the original post, i would feel safe wheeling and towing with blocks on the rear axle.

    a lifted vehicle is not going to handle as well as a stock setup though.
     
  15. big83chevy4x4

    big83chevy4x4 3/4 ton status

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    i think with block the taller thay are, the easier they are to spit out. with a 1" its gonna be hard to spit out, plus with the center pin (all that i have seen are grade 8) its not gonna spit out unless you happen to shear the pin, they you have other problems.
     
  16. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    As many have stated, blocks in the rear are perfectly fine for fourwheeling. The only problem with them is that they can cause pretty bad wheelhop. This usually only leads to your truck bouncing, which means loss of traction, and makes some obstacles harder to get up than they should be.
    -Harrison
     
  17. smokkey1

    smokkey1 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    this is the crap that makes blocks dangerous, poor design, weak materials, and stacking /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [/ QUOTE ]



    well as long as your not running around with blocks like that /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif you'll be fine.
     
  18. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    centre pins break all the time. almost the first thing you look at when diagnosing spring troubles.
    rarely see a broken u bolt. I never have.
     
  19. 87BrnRsd

    87BrnRsd 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    i agree with mj, a block is a block

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Yes, but when it bolts directly to the spring pack dont you think it is more of an add-a-leaf? Besides blocks can spit out, and zero rates cannot. That is a huge difference between blocks and zero rates, and is also the only reason you can run zero rates up front and you cannot run blocks up front.
    [ QUOTE ]
    plain and simple, if your u-bolts arent torqued correctly, the block is going to [darn] out regardless.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    This is true, loose u-bolts will lead to a block spitting out. But if your u-bolts are loose with a zero rate, the zero rate wont spit out. It will be perfectly attached to the springs when the spring pack is laying beside the spring perch instead of on it.
    -Harrison
     
  20. txfiremank5

    txfiremank5 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    centre pins break all the time. almost the first thing you look at when diagnosing spring troubles.
    rarely see a broken u bolt. I never have.

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Yes, I too have seen a spring pin shear... but it's still not much of an arguement. After all, it does not matter what set up you have at that point... your still in the same boat. I mean, if your pin breaks/shears under throttle, the axle runs along the spring in the direction of travel until something gives... or it hits. At least that's been the case in the examples I've seen. At that point, no matter what your running (blocks vs springs) your still not going anywhere until the pin, and potential resulting mess, is addressed.

    I prefer springs, but will use a block as long as it's not over 4". For the front, I would only use springs. But, I'm still suseptable to pin failure either way... like every other wheeler running spring packs.

    Just my 2 cents...
     

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