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Is this the "resistor wire"

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BigBen, Nov 19, 2002.

  1. BigBen

    BigBen 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    The search function on CK5 is fantastic, and it has already answered a lot of my questions so far. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    I've been having some ignition problems setting up my new engine, and I think I may finally know the problem. I bought the '74 with an "in-cap coil" HEI, but I'm 95% sure it was originally a points setup.

    When we checked the continuity from the (Batt+)plug on the HEI distributor to the Run setting at the ignition switch, we got 80 ohms. We thought that was high /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif, but at least it was connected.

    Now, after researching on the old forums, I think this means whoever did the setup might have used the resistor wire. It's even more suspicious since the HEI positive lead is a large wire for about 8 inches before it gets spliced into a much smaller reddish (Maybe pink) wire.

    Does this make sense? Would 80 ohms be about right for a resistor wire....?
    /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif


    -Ben
     
  2. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    I don't recall what the resistor wire ohm readings should be. However, if you are running HEI, do NOT use the resistor wire. Additionally, how did you check the resistance?

    I would check voltage coming from this wire with the ignition on. Do not connect or disconnect the HEI with the ignition on. Shocks happen!

    IIRC with my resistor wire in place I got ~9 volts to my points system.

    Without the resistor there I got 11.3 volts. I thought this was too low, and I added a relay. I was TOLD it helps, but there was nothing noticeable. I have an ACCEL coil on my HEI. That made a bigger difference than a relay. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Good luck.
     
  3. BigBen

    BigBen 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    We measured the restistance with the power off, the plug pulled from the distributor and with a Fluke Multimeter. The other lead was pushed into the contact at the ignition switch for the "run" setting.

    I was about to try replacing all the components in my distribuor when a search here brought up the common resistor wire mistake. I want to figure out if this is the problem before I go ahead with changing out all these parts that might actually be just fine! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

    So, I was just hoping someone would have a surefire way to verify that this is the wrong wire.

    Anyone with an HEI or points willing to measure theirs so I can compare???? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    I'll measure the voltage while plugged into the cap tonight with the switch on run. That might tell us something.

    Thanks
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    Yeah I am pretty sure 74 was the transision year where the points were being phased out. It should be straight 12v for HEI.
     
  5. boots

    boots 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    according to my wiring diagram for a 73 the resistance wire should have 1.35 ohms of resistance, easy way to tell is to peel back a little of the insulation. The restance wire is actually stainless steel not copper cored, I verified this whe I did my swap. My manual jumps from 73 to 77 so the diagrams might be the same in wich case the coil wire originally went to terminal 3 on the bulkhead connector. WHen I did my swap I used a small blade screwdriver to push one edge of the terminal sideways in the connector, then gently pulled it out, actually pried open the crimp connector, recrimed it to some striaght 10 guage red wire (couldn't find pink) soldered it and basically did the same thing on the other end for the "clip" on the cap. Make sense? Seems the bulkhead connector on my '75 was the same as my '73. so the '74 should also be the same. someone correct me on this if I'm wrong please. CAn't hurt to smear some dielectric grease on the connector in the bulkhead connector when your done. am I as clear as md yet? Any questions feel free to email me and I'll try to muddy up the water some more. '73 wiring diagrams are at:
    http://commerceconnections.com/knell/boots/blazer/
    click and right click to save as and use your own graphic software to enlarge print etc

    shawn
    boots@commerceconnections.com
     
  6. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    I had to remove the resistor wire on my 73 so I could go HEI.
    It was a black resistor about 1.5 long (by faded memory of course) with one wire coming out of one side and two wires coming out the other.
    I just cut it out.
    The function of it is to drop the 12V down to 6V for a points system. Use a multimeter and check voltage at the HEI terminal. If it's around 6, you still have this in place and need to remove it. Otherwise, it should be about 12.4 or thereabouts (same as battery.)
    If you're still not sure, you can post a pic and I'll be able to tell you if it looks anything like mine did.

    -- Mike
     
  7. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    Hey Bigben,

    I did this also a few years ago. My book shows the resistor wire to be 1.35 ohms for a V8. It shows the wire to be P/B...which I guess is Purple/Black. There should also be a large Yellow wire going down to the starter solenoid to provide 12 volts to "start" on the old points style. The resistor wire was just in circuit during "run". The easiest thing to do is run a wire directly from the spare IGN terminal in your fuse box to the HEI. That's what I did and it's run perfectly for 3 years now.
     
  8. R72K5

    R72K5 Banned

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    just run a wire from fuse panel IGN port to the BATT terminal on the HEI cap and remove yellwo wire from points coil to starter solenoid and tape off end of the points coil ign feed wire. i always use 14 guage stranded for HEI conversion and run it through wall with speedo cable or oil pressure line.

    good luck
     
  9. BigBen

    BigBen 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    Wow guys, thanks for all the help so far.

    Sometimes I get so hung up in figuring out what the last guy did that I forget to just "solve the problem"!... I don't know where my 80 ohm circuit came from, but it will be gone soon enough /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

    The strange thing is that when I dug a little farther in the harness, the HEI BAT terminal is spliced to a YELLOW wire, which I can't explain. I'm getting the idea that it isn't hooked to the resistor wire, but I don't know what this guy did because there is still a wire hooked to the starter for the "resistor wire bypass" function.

    CRAP, I just looked at Boots wiring diagram, and it is a Yellow wire to the coil... but the resistor wire splices in earlier from the ignition. Maybe this all makes sense after all.

    So, I'm going to pull the harness apart a little bit this weekend in order to figure out what is there. I'll just feel better if I actually find the resistor wire as a culprit and pull it out. Then I will promptly remove all unnecessary wires and hook the BAT terminal to the IGN terminal in the truck with a suitable wire. Then I'll pray and check my spark. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    If that's good, then it's on to engine break-in!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    Wish me luck!
    I'll keep you posted on the progress.

    -Ben

    BTW: GREAT wiring diagram boots!
     
  10. boots

    boots 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    Ben (and anyone else follwoing this post and interested)
    GO back to the above URL and check out the HEI documents I just shoved (am curretly shoving) up there. Grab em while you can as I'm gonna have ot start getting rid of some of that stuff one of these days, though I'll have it on the HD or a CD here at home.
    Glad I could help
    me

    as for the 80 Ohm reading you gt, could possibly be just because someone cut part of the original restance wire out, least I think it could be. Shorter path less resitance sorta thing.
     
  11. BigBen

    BigBen 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    Boots,

    You're kickin' arse and taking names as far as I'm concerned with the problem. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    I just grabbed your docs. I'll print them out and read them when I get home tonight. I hope to diagnose the whole thing this weekend and get the truck running. Once that's done, I'll fill you all in on Monday!

    Thanks again,

    -Ben
     
  12. boots

    boots 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    thanks but all I did was the reasearch I didn't do much work on em other than collect em for myself, I had em you needed em glad I could help, you'll repay the favor one of these days, if not to me then to someone else.

    boots
     
  13. BigBen

    BigBen 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    Hey Boots, I think we can call this problem "done"! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    For anyone else who might be following this, the problem was the resistor wire. To take you through it:

    The distributor was hooked up with a small ~16 guage wire to the (BAT+) terminal. Tracing that wire, it went into the loom and up onto the firewall where it did a U-turn and headed down to its spot on the starter. Spliced to the yellow wire at the U-turn was the pink resistor wire that ran from there to the bulkhead connector in the firewall. The wire was clearly marked: "Resistor DO NOT CUT". This all matched up PERFECTLY with the wiring diagrams posted above. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    So, I cut the yellow wire down as far as I could get to the starter and capped it off. (It's a bitch to get to the starter around the headers, so I'll pull it totally out next time). Then I pulled the bulkhead connector apart and removed the spade for the resistor wire. Lastly I removed the crappy distributor plug splice and pulled the wires. I reused the spade for the connector and ran a nice 12ga wire from there to the distrbutor in the original harness.

    It looks pretty clean now, and the truck fired up without fail and quite a bit more "pep" than it had before. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    BTW, the wire measured 1.3 ohms, just like it should have. I'm not sure what the Frig I was measuring at 80 ohms, so just disregard that.

    Thanks again all,

    CK5 worked for me! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    -Ben
     
  14. boots

    boots 1/2 ton status

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    Re: Is this the \"resistor wire\"

    glad to be of help, I've gleaned a lot of useful info from this outfit, glad I could return the favor. If in the future, if you haven't already, decide to put in the remote solenoid as outlined in the other articles let me know. Instead of using a wire to jump the post I sliced open an old welding nozzle with the plasma cutter and put to little bends in in and a couple holes and bolted it in place of the jumper. I rigged one up for a buddy of mine also on his old SBC 327 in wich the starter seemed to be getting tired. He has since had no problems with the starter, other than some he induced himself, like putting the ALT wire on the wrong side of the solenoid after he figured out that the solenoid was grounded through the mounting bolts. He kinda zip tied it in place. I can take some pictures of that setup if your interested, I mounted mine next to the blower box on the firewall. yada yada yada.

    me
     

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