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JB Weld- how strong is it really?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ChevyCaGal, Apr 17, 2001.

  1. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    How strong is this stuff really? I have to put mudflaps on because when I drive up north to OR, WA and ID I always get nailed for not having them and told I need them. I can bolt one side of the flap to the wheel well in a hole that was already there for the fender flares...the other side would go where there is no hole. I don't want to drill yet another hole in my Blazer. Can I stick some of this stuff on the metal flap holder and then attach it to the other side of the well where it is going? Will it hold or fall off first time I go over a bump? It (JB Weld) seems to be good stuff but I have never heard of anyone trying this? Thanks in advance! [​IMG]

    "Suck Fumes Ford Boy"
    "I love my country, I fear my government"
    "What if the hokey pokey is what it's all about?"
     
  2. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    I don't think it would hold.
    I know you have an aversion to drilling more holes, but you only need two more.
    It won't be worth the hassle of finding something that works (w/o drilling.)
    Good luck,
    - Mike
     
  3. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    That's not really what it's good for. Seriously doubt it would work.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    Try to find a hole that is near it and use zip ties...that or duct tape.

    90K5

    See my truck at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502>http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Albumindex?u=1329584&a=9886502</A>
     
  5. Blaze

    Blaze 1/2 ton status

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    The stuff is really strong, but I don't think that it would work for something like that. Too much stress on the JB weld at the point. Of course, I had a friend that JB welded two slant 6s together once. That was cool until he wrecked the Dart it was in.

    [​IMG]<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www4.ncsu.edu/~brschoch>http://www4.ncsu.edu/~brschoch</A>
     
  6. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Try using 3M double sidded tape. It is gray and has a red that gets pulled off. This stuff is strong! It is what the use to mount side molding on cars.

    '71 Blazer CST with alot of rust
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I have no idea if it would work here but, something else that is UNBELIEVABLY STRONG is the black urethane (comes in a caulking type tube) used to seal (and hold in) many late model windshields. That stuff will NOT turn loose of anything it is stuck to (as long as it is clean and oil free) and it is nearly impossible to cut without a hot-knife made for that purpose. Plus, it does not completely harden but remains relatively flexible. If the one bolt hole you have can support most of the weight, this stuff *might* work to stabilize you flap bracket... Personally, I would drill the hole or make a bracket to tie it to an existing hole (or holes).

    Bad Dog

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  8. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Oh, forgot to mention, the JB dries very hard and is not flexible. It would probably hold for a little while but the vibration and flexing of the flap bracket would eventually break it I think. That's what made me think of the urethane since it is strong but will flex.

    Bad Dog

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  9. gokartergo

    gokartergo 3/4 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Drill a hole in the flaps. And you can buy ty-straps up to 24 inches long. That would hold up better. And can be removed with a knife when you don't need hem.....

    [​IMG]
     

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