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K series driveline in a Heep?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Leadfoot, Jul 15, 2002.

  1. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I know, I know, but Noangel and I might have a lead on a rolled Jeep. The frame is in excellent shape (body is toast), and I was thinking of taking it and putting a fiberglass body on it and turning into a daily driver/mild off-roader for her. Question is, I was also thinking of putting a V6 or V8 in and Chevy tranny and t-case (as I have enough spares) to give it a little more pep and beef. I know AA makes all the necessary adapters, but I was wondering about the axles. I would like to put a 10 bolt in front and maybe a 12 or 14 bolt in back. The question is, how much wider are they than your standard mid 80's Heep? We have laws here that won't allow the tire to stick out of the wheel-wells, so if they are a lot wider I would also have to get really wide flares (which sometimes looks stupid), or should I just beef the Heep axles as we are not doing ARCA competitions and will only have mild smallblock power? Any suggestions, other than getting a K5 /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif
     
  2. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    I have been researching this myself. The word is that a Chevy axle (10 bolt or Dana44) is 4" wider than the Jeep ones. A lot of guys take the jeep spring mounts and 'outboard' them. They move them to just outside the frame rails by 2" on each side, then the spring perches dont have to be moved. But, that means that putting a set of wider tires and wheels, eg 35x12.5s on 10" wheels, instead of the stock Jeep wheels and tires, you are prolly looking at 4" + nearly 8" wider... so I bet 6" on each side past the wells.
    Thats the way I had it figured anyways.

    Mike
     
  3. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    A 14 bolt could be easily narrowed by 6". Just use two of the short axle shafts and narrow the long side of the housing...

    Rene
     
  4. mercercadet

    mercercadet 1/2 ton status

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    Narrow nothing!!

    Use pieces of 5/16 or thicker angle and fab spring mounts for the front. all you really need is a tape and a welder. I'll dig up my notes on my swap and get you copies of all that good stuff. The tranny crossmember must also be fabbed too...pretty easily done as well. Use the chevy springs if you want major flex out of a leaf spring suspension and your good to go with the short wheel base of a jeep and all the benefits of stronger axles and stouter drivetrain....there is no better combo for the cash. /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif
     
  5. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Where does that put the pumpkin relative to the drivetrain. Jesse said to try and keep the t-case output and the pinion input inline to avoid vibrations and u-joint failures.... If it keeps it in line fine....and has anyone done this? Also can the same be done for the front or would it shorten it too much (I would think it would). Thanks everybody and keep the info/comments coming.
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Well the pinion on my 14 is 1.5" offset from center so if you swapped in a short axle and narrowed the tube it would be 4.5" offset the other way. Prolly too much for the driveline to handle. I have never done it obviously, just something I thought of while robbing the axles out of a scrap 14...

    Rene
     
  7. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    are you certain the shafts differ in length?
    I would have guessed they would be same
     
  8. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    They're different. I've had mine out too and when they're sitting side by side the difference is obvious. /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif
     
  9. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    The difference is almost 6" from the short one to the long one...I could go measure exactly if you like./forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    OK, I just checked with my trusty Lufkin tape...long side is 37.5", the short side is 31.75" as near as I could tell. They are somewhat buried under junk right now.

    Rene
     
  10. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    more parts to stock.
    very un chevy like.
    my 70 shares lengths or else I have been extremely lucky in stuffin them in the correct sides
     
  11. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    very un chevy like.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I agree...

    Rene
     
  12. Brady

    Brady 1/2 ton status

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    I am doing this on My Heep.I am using 1/2 ton stuff cause I have the axles with lockers and tires and rims for them.I also am putting in a SB with the 465 and 205.You will need to offset the engine 1" to the driverside to clear the trans with the driveshaft.M.O.R.E's motor mounts do this for you.
    Now,If your using this rig on the street I would say keep the narrow axles.Otherwise you will have problems with the law!My rig will be trailered or street driven a little.Most guys that use the wide chevy axles get harrased by the cops.Just something to think about.Brady
     
  13. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    If a SBC/465/205 fits in our rigs without driveshaft problems, why is it a problem in the Heep? Is it that the pumpkin is more offset on the Heep (which would make sense with the stock Heep axles), but what about with the Chevy axles (I would assume it would be the same as if they were in a K series). Sorry, just trying to do my research.
     

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