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K5 suspension and drivetrain redo, advice?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by steelsoldiers, Sep 8, 2003.

  1. steelsoldiers

    steelsoldiers 1/2 ton status

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    Hey guys,
    My '84 is going to be going into my garage next week and when it comes out it will be larger and my checking account will be smaller /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif. I am finally in a position to upgrade my cheezy 10-bolts to tons /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif and while I am at it I want to upgrade my suspension and drivetrain. Right now I have 3.73 10 bolts front and rear, a 6.2L diesel, a TH400, and a NP208 for the drivetrain. I have 2" skyjacker springs front and rear with warrior sway bar disconnects, a 2" body lift, and 35x12.50 MTs on the stock 15x8 steel military wheels. Here's what I'm thinking of doing. Keeping the ol' 6.2L for the "reliability" and running at any angle, swapping the TH400 for a SM465 along with the whole pedal assembly from a manual truck, swapping the NP208 for the 203/205ORD doubler with the 3 lever shift kit, swapping the 10 bolts for the Dana 60/14-bolt combo, swapping the front 2" skyjacker springs for 6" springs, installing a 4" ORD shackle flip with the 2" skyjacker springs in the rear, and going to the 39.5" Swamper IROKs for my tires on some 15x8 8-lug steelies. How's that sound for a combo? Do you guys like your ORD flip kits? I love the Skyjacker springs, but does anyone have any reason not to? I already bought my 14-bolt with 4.56 gears, it just needs a Detroit. I am shopping the local ad trader for the rest of the hard goods. This is not my daily driver so I can go pretty extreme, but it still has to pass a WV modified inspection so I can't get too crazy /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Any other thoughts from you guys who have done some or all of this stuff? Should I keep the body lift? I haven't had any problems from it yet... Thanks, I respect the hell out of your opinions so let 'em fly.

    Chris
     
  2. great scott

    great scott 1/2 ton status

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    Thats a lota doe leving the check book but if you can swing it, it sounds good. Try and get a hydrolic clutch system you will want it in the future. As far as ORD's flip kit I have never ran one but all ORD's stuf I have ran has worked great and I have a home made kit that I love.
     
  3. bigblock44k5

    bigblock44k5 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds like you got it all figured out. I have had much experience with skyjacker, but i have 6" EZ-rides on mine and I love em. Also make sure you can get back out of the garage with that extra lift. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    You're buying tires anyway, get the 16" wheels and go that route so you don't have to grind. No sense in putting yourself through the grinding bs if you dont have to. Most of us do it because we are buying used tires or already have tires.

    Interco wants you to put their 39.5" IROKs on 10" wheels if they're 15s, and 12" if they're 16s. I suggest at least a 10" wheel unless you're going to be running 3 psi with no beadlock. Any particular reason you wanted the 8" wide wheels? I can't even stand to see a 35x12.50 tire on an 8" rim, I can't imagine why you'd run a 39.5" tire on one.

    SM 465. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I like them myself. TH 400 is tough enough typically but nothing is more reliable than a manual.

    Doubler...if there's any question as to your checking account being overflowing, start with nixing this from the list. With a 6.55:1 first gear in the SM 465, you're going to experience crawling like you never have before with your TH 400. If nothing else, try out an SM 465/NP 205 combo and save that cash that you might have spent on a doubler for other items later. The doubler has a lot of places it can be useful, but somehow I think they're a long ride from West Virginia. If you want it and cash is unlimited, go for it.

    For the rear, why not go with the Echobit flip? With your 2" springs you have already and swapping the front ones to 6"ers with the D60 getting installed you'll probably be about level. I think you'll be a little low if you only use the ORD flip. Plus, the Echobit flip is a much easier install. Both are good setups, but I think you'll be happier with the Echobit setup.

    If it were me, I'd save the cash that the Echobit flip saves you and nix the doubler. I'd use that cash to buy the steering braces, hardcore bumpers, swaybar disconnects, and a winch. If there's any cash left over, I'd put some kind of traction device in the front as well.

    What kind of fourhwheeling do you intend to do?

    You've got some cool ideas but I still like mine better. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  5. steelsoldiers

    steelsoldiers 1/2 ton status

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    The 16" wheels idea makes a lot of sense. I'd hate to have to grind my pretty new calipers. You're right, I should be going to at least a 16x10 for the 39.5x13.50. I always thought my 35x12.50 were pushing the envelope on a stock 15x8 steel wheel. Has anyone had any big complaints about the IROKs? I did a search, but couldn't come up with anything recent. I have used several sets of Swamper Radials and I really liked them, but they stop at 38" and I want to go bigger.

    The doubler would be very trick, but I guess for most of the West Virginia trails, the granny gear in the SM465, the 2:1 in the NP205, and 4.56s in the chunks would suffice. A lot of the trails are mud-slicked and require a good but more tire spin than low crawl ratios. It would be nice to have the extra 2:1 if I needed it. I'll see how much money I have left after buying the rest of mt parts.

    I have had a slush box for years in my K5 and I really want to have some more fun with it now that it's not my DD. I love shifting those gears and it would give me a little more control of the 6.2L rpm range sweet spot.

    The reason I didn't go hydraulic clutch is because I thought it would be a lot simpler and more reliable in the long run to just run a same generation manual setup out of a junker in my truck. Am I off-base here? Is there a "easy" hydraulic setup to swap into the K5?

    I'll definitely check out the Echobit. I do want my truck to sit level when I am finished.

    I want to put a selectable locker in the Dana 60 to give me some more options in the snow and the tight stuff. Beefy steering assist, HD tie rod, cross-over steering, steering braces, and tough bumpers are definitely in the works.

    Thanks for all of the great suggestions /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. Keep 'em coming guys.

    Chris

    ps- I'm going to get some junkyard tires and wheels to get me out of the garage, lowrider baby /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  6. steelsoldiers

    steelsoldiers 1/2 ton status

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    PPS: My type of fourwheeling usually involves door deep mudholes, tight slippery rock and tree root covered trails, off-camber hill climbs, loose coal refuse pile hill climbs, river/creek crossings, boulder (WV sized, not out west sized /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif) strewn logging roads, old strip mines, etc... /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif damn, now I'm all excited (not that way /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif) and want to go home and work on my truck. So I guess a deep, deep crawl ratio is not really ideal for 75% of my off-roading, but I do require drivetrain BEEEEEF for those full throttle stinky ol' sloppy, nasty trails and holes. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
     

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