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knuckles

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 69K5, Oct 9, 2002.

  1. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    I will hopefully soon be getting to swap out my drums for disc. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif I have the original Dana 44 and it has flat top knuckles. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Correct me if i'm wrong. I believe the ones im getting are off an 87. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif i am assuming that these are not flat tops. is there any difference as far as tie rods and ect between them? is there any advantage to the flat tops? I will be putting a lift on (4-6), but I wont have any need for cross over steering. I only play in the mud b/c, there arent any rocks close enough to mess with.

    thanks
    69K5 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
    nathan
     
  2. J.Lance

    J.Lance 1/2 ton status

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    I don't believe the machined knuckles hold any advantage over the other since you won't be using cross over steering. The only disadvantage of the '87 would be 10 bolt diff but it sounds like your just swapping knuckles? Is your '69 D44 an open knuckle drum set-up? The original in my '68 was a closed knuckle drum and I swapped in a 10 bolt out of an '85 Blazer. Everything seemed to match up good as far as pitman arm, center link, tie rod ends, etc... Not completely sure about the steering arms. I know they used a couple different types of conical washers for these and I'm not sure the machining matches up. Should be very minor point. If you do a lot in the mud, I'd suggest using a air chisel or grinder to separate the rotor backing plate from the caliper mount. Makes it much easier to clean and will help to prevent small rocks from getting caught in between and chewing up your rotor. Looks good too! Let me know how things go.

    Jason
     
  3. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    I am swapping just knuckles. I dont know how to tell the difference between open or closed knuckle. I will take off the backing plate i hate the grinding sound from rocks. thanks for all the help.

    nathan
     
  4. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    If you can see the u-joint and axle shaft then it is open knuckle. If it looks like it is covered by a steel hemisphere it is closed knuckle. You might also want to swap in some newer D44 axle shafts with the larger u-joints while you are at it.
     
  5. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    triaged,

    thanks for the clarification. mine are definatley open.i will have to wait on the shafts. can only afford one project at a time.

    thanks

    nathan
     
  6. BigMac

    BigMac 1/2 ton status

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    why change out the knuckles? The disk brake parts wont bolt up to your old knuckles?
     
  7. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    The backing plate spindle ect will all swap out. its just usually sheaper to buy a knuckle than all the parts individually. Also its a little faster to just undo 2 ball joints and a snapring than to disassemble everything.
    I have bben tossing around the idea of doing that though. just so i could keep all the original bearings and such.(easier to get replacements this way) They are gonna have to be replaced either way.

    69K5
    nathan /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  8. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    It might be nice to have all the same spair parts but the 2nd design D44/10B stuff (spindles, hubs, and bearings) are stronger then the 1st design D44 stuff. The only replacement parts that are differnt are the inner bearing and the seal. The axle bearing/seal kit (the stuff that goes inside the spindle) is the same as well as the outter bearing. The only difference is a larger inner bearing and a thicker spindle.
     
  9. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    I may do it that way. I guess it wioll just be when ever i get the parts and how i'm feeling. to get the right seals and bearings. i just get the ones for the respective yuear of the knuckles right?

    thanks

    nathan
     

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