Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Leaf Blower (2 cycle motor) question

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by cbbr, Jul 15, 2006.

  1. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2004
    Posts:
    14,681
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    High velocity, Low altitude
    Of course it won't run. I gapped and replaced the spark plug, the fuel lines were bad so I replaced them and I cleaned the carb. New gas - I dumped the old.

    It will start and run, although rough, as long as I feather the choke and have it about 1/2 way closed. It also smokes a lot. WTF???
     
  2. Corey 78K5

    Corey 78K5 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    13,055
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Humboldt County, CA
    Well one of the problems is caused by You. By choking it half way Your changing the air fuel mixture causing it to smoke. If You have to keep it choked to run the it is a fuel problem. Most likely the fuel filter inside the tank on the end of the fuel line (it can be fished out with a piece of wire with a hook bent on the end). Another possibility is the fuel pump diaphragm which is usually on the side of the carb with the screw in the center of the cover. I would check all the gaskets as well, air leaks kill 2 strokes. Another thing to check is the spark arrester screen inside of the muffler. They can get clogged with carbon deposits from a rich running engine. To clean the screen get it read hot with a propane torch and after it cools brush it off with one of those small wire or brass brush's.
     
  3. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Posts:
    2,923
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wilmington, NC
    YAY! A question in my line of work!

    I imagine that since you had bad gas in it, it has hardened the fuel pump diaphragm. You will need to go to the local small engine dealer, and get the appropriate kit for your carb. If you could give me a model number from your piece of equipment, I could tell you which kit you need right now.

    Another possibility is that when you disconnected the fuel lines, you introduced trash to the inlet pipe and clogged the screen inside the carb, or you potentially stopped up an idle fuel circuit.

    If you go the rebuild route (which I suggest you do), when you set the needle valve, you want it to bleed off at ~10 lbs of pressure, and to sustain 5-6 lbs of pressure. This can be frustrating to set.

    For starters though, I need you to tell me some things. Does it sound like the intake is louder than the exhaust? This will reveal a restricted exhaust. Is there a black, oily film around the area of the exhaust? If so, this would suggest a rich condition or a poor grade of 2-cycle oil. If it does have the film, check the spark arrestor as Corey mentioned. If this reveals nothing, you may have to pull the muffler off and remove the carbon deposits from where the exhaust "manifold" is. If it's full of carbon, CAREFULLY scrape it out, taking care to not let it go in the cylinder.

    Two-stroke engines are extremely sensitive to the type and heat range of spark plug used. The majority of equipment sold takes a fairly standard spark plug. A good one I can suggest is a NGK BM6A or a Denso W-20MU. DO NOT use Champion plugs as they are total crap.

    Another secret that most people don't know is that regular gas shouldn't be used in a two-stroke. When the two-cycle oil is added, it reduces the octane rating of the gasoline, which reduces power and ease of starting, increases smoke, and requires more maintenance (exhaust) since the fuel doesn't fully combust. Use mid-grade gas and a quality oil mix from a small engine dealer. Stihl oil mix is highly recommended, followed closely by Shindaiwa.

    I'm getting lost in my own words here, so post up the manufacturer and model number and I'll tell you all you need to know.
     
  4. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2001
    Posts:
    32,076
    Likes Received:
    55
    Location:
    .
    What brands of equipment do you work on or have experience with? I have a Stihl BF85 (I think) leaf blower and the Stihl F110 (I think) weed eater.
     
  5. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2004
    Posts:
    14,681
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    High velocity, Low altitude
    Thanks for the help so far, I will definitely check those things suggested tomorrow.

    Husquvarna 225b.

    I put a new fuel filter in when I replaced the lines this afternoon. I then took it off completely with o change in the way that it runs. I don't know if the gas was bed, but it was old (6 mos) so I replaced it. I use 93 octane unleaded in my lawn stuff.

    I also took the carb off and soaked it in cleaner and replaced the plug with some sort of splitfire plug from Lowe's gapped to .30 per the book at Lowe's.
     
  6. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Posts:
    2,923
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wilmington, NC
    I have extensive experience with every make and nearly every model of two stroke engine made. The two businesses I have worked at over the years sell Stihl, Honda, Echo, Robin, Shindaiwa, Red Max, and Dolmar. I have also worked on equipment manufactured by MTD and AYP (Weed-Eater, Poulan, Snapper, Ryobi, Husquvarna....et. al.), and even one-off stuff that you won't see everywhere. I also have equal experience with Briggs & Stratton, Honda, Kohler, Wisconsin, Onan, and Tecumseh engines; Scag, Hustler (Excel), Snapper, Wright, Exmark, Gravely, Ariens, MTD, AYP, and Honda mowers. I guess you'd just call me a general mechanic since I work on everything outdoors. I service/repair lawnmowers, chainsaws, trimmers, blowers, stump grinders, generators, christmas tree bailers, tamps, pressure washers....all sorts of stuff. You name it, there's a good chance I've done it. During my first two years of small engine repair, I was under the direction of a Master Certified Briggs & Stratton technician whom was also the business owner. It's kinda cliche to say, but he seriously has forgotten more than I'll ever know.

    I get some aggravating pieces of equipment quite often. It's the same as buying anything else out there. You definitely get what you pay for. It's certainly not a business that I want to make a career out of, but if I ever had to fall back on it, I could make decent living from it. I take pride in my work though, and I love it when I can repair something without costing the customer a fortune on parts or labor, but then there are some times when it does add up. I rebuilt an Onan engine (expensive as it is) on a customer's mower a few weeks ago. It ended up costing him $800, with half of that being parts. I gave him an estimate as soon as I found the problem (broken rod, busted piston, two head gaskets, piston rings, oil pan gasket, new crankshaft), and he wanted it repaired even at that high cost because the mower had sentimental value.

    My current boss and my fellow mechanic hates Stihl, but I love them. I like their simplicity and durability. I am biased though since they're one of the first things I ever worked on.

    cbbr - I am 99.9% positive that the gas that was in your piece of equipment has caused the fuel diaphragm to harden. Depending on the age of the machine, they can be stored usually from a minimum of three months to a maximum of six months before the fuel causes the diaphragm to harden. You're going to have to rebuild it, or take it in to have it rebuilt. You can probably expect the kit to cost roughly $10 if you want to do it yourself, or pay $30-40 for a shop to R&R it if they know what they're doing.

    I believe Husquvarna uses Zama carbs, but I have seen a few Walbro's on them. Maybe I have that backwards. I'm not as familiar with Zama's carbs as I am Walbro, so I lied to you when I told you that I'd be able to give you the rebuild kit P#. If it is a Walbro, it'll most likely be a WAT-K10 or WAT-K20. I tell ya, you kinda lose track when you rebuild close to three carbs a day on top of everything else that we do.

    At the end of the season, or anytime you finish using it if you don't use it on regular basis, drain the gas back into the container and then run the equipment until it dies. Then, set the choke and run it again until it dies. That will ensure the diaphragm will stay soft for many years to come. You can also put a fuel stabilizer in your gas container. I want to say that Briggs & Stratton sells some that will keep gas fresh for two years. Good luck with it, and if you need any help at all, I'm on here daily.
     
  7. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2002
    Posts:
    2,876
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    College Station & Kingsville, Texas
    Damn sounds like buttsecks guy knows his ****. I have some sort of gas weedwhacker, its green, but I cant remember the brand name right off hand. Its given me nothing but ****, I hate the goddam thing. I use an electric one ( I know...) before it because its such a piece of **** but I may try to fix it next time I'm home. Oterwise, I'm buying a new gasser...
     
  8. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Posts:
    2,923
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wilmington, NC
    Sounds like you have a Weed-Eater brand trimmer. They used to put a sticker on those things that would trip me out. I believe they removed it because enough people figured out what it actually meant.

    It used to have a sticker that said something like, "Service Duty Cycle: 30 Hours". It basically meant that it was designed to last 30 hours before the motor needed to be rebuilt/replaced, whereas a trimmer you would buy at an outdoor products store should be rated close to 300 hours. Any more than the 30, and you could consider yourself lucky. I know they made a killing on selling those things. Market something for $100 and sell them at every Walmart in the states....I'm in the wrong end of the business! :doah:
     
  9. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2002
    Posts:
    2,876
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    College Station & Kingsville, Texas
    After seeing my buddy's dad run over one with all 4 wheels of his truck (I was drunk and it was an accident and funny) my next wheed eater will be a Stihl. After being pummeled by all 4 wheels of a fullsize truck, the sumbitch was no worse for the wear...that straight up blew my goddam mind.
     
  10. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Posts:
    2,923
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wilmington, NC
    Yeah, they're tough. Another good one that will just about last forever is a Shindaiwa.
     
  11. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2004
    Posts:
    14,681
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    High velocity, Low altitude
    You got it, its a Walbro. I have a Sthil weed eater that is quite possibly the best piece of lawn equipment I have ever owned. I also have a Snapper mower from the same place, and will no doubt be buying everything else from them soon enough.

    The one thing that I have learned over the last few years is why my father insists on buying lawn equipment from local independent dealers. He swears by Airens, Echo and Sthil. The crap you get at the big box stores just can't compare and I swear that I spend more time and $$ fixing it than the extra that the better stuff costs up front.
     
  12. FOR MUD

    FOR MUD 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2006
    Posts:
    2,801
    Likes Received:
    387
    Location:
    Clayton Del
    I remember a ad for Sthil years ago , about a saw falling out of a truck rolling down a hill and landing back on the road . The guy pulls up in the truck and starts the saw .
     
  13. Corey 78K5

    Corey 78K5 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    13,055
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Humboldt County, CA
    Brings back some old memories. I started working in a small engine shop back in high school and did it for a few years afterwords. It was much simpler back then cause there was very little OHV stuff out on the market. In that line of work you learn what is junk and what isn't. I used to laugh at these idiots who would bring in their chainsaws that they bought at K-Mart with 30WT in the bar oil tank and strait gas in the mix tank. They always felt that it should be fixed for free cause the zit faced kid at K-Mart told them thats how it worked. I would say thats a funny story cause this ain't K-Mart...........
     
  14. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2001
    Posts:
    32,076
    Likes Received:
    55
    Location:
    .
    I'm gonna have to keep you on a list somewhere for reference so when I need help with my toys, you'll be the man to call.

    My problem with my Stihl blower is once its ran for a while and gets hot/warmed up, its hard to restart it after you shut it off and do something like move stuff around or take a break and then attempt to restart the damn thing. I find to get it restarted, I have to open the throttle wide open. Then it keeps running. I've blown out the filter and kept the whole thing clean by blowing it off with compressed air but still can't figure the restart problem.
    What gives?
     
  15. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Posts:
    2,923
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wilmington, NC
    A hot restart problem is one of the harder ones to diagnose. It could be fuel related, or it could be coil related. Stihl's are notorious for weak or bad coils, but I don't feel that's what the problem is. It's either running rich or lean on the restart, but either are fuel pump diaphragm related. Sometimes you can cheat it for a while by compensating with the mixture screws, but Stihl doesn't like to put mixture adjusters on many of their tools, and when they do, it's sometimes hard to tune them. About all I can tell you to do is to get a rebuild kit for the carb, and to stop blowing the air filter out with air. That's bad...:shame:
     
  16. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2001
    Posts:
    32,076
    Likes Received:
    55
    Location:
    .
    Care to elaborate on the filter and compressed air? :ears:
     
  17. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Posts:
    2,923
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wilmington, NC
    Aight. Air filters rely on the small porosity of the material to keep dirt from entering the engine. If you blow compressed air through the filter, you are potentially enlarging these tiny holes which allows larger dirt particles in.

    Here's your options on air filters:

    Foam: wash with mild detergent and water
    Paper: either beat the dirt out of it, or use an ultra low compressed air source, or just replace it
    that compressed fiber junk Stihl uses: replace
    the plastic cased filters with a fleece filter: use carb cleaner to clean - let air dry
     
  18. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2001
    Posts:
    32,076
    Likes Received:
    55
    Location:
    .
    Got it. Gonna go buy a new filter soon then. I've blown mine out too much. Oops!
     
  19. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Posts:
    2,923
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Wilmington, NC
    Eh, we all make mistakes. Oh yeah, I should have mentioned it, but a "loose" air filter will also create a slightly lean condition since it's allowing for more air flow, but it shouldn't be very significant.
     
  20. wasted wages

    wasted wages 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2003
    Posts:
    9,194
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Dallas Texas
    Big orange,

    You ever mod any 2 strokes for more power? such as: port timing,, crank/piston mods ?


    I run R/C boats and run one of these:

    http://hometown.aol.com/ccracingengines/page1.html

    CC Racing ProMod Engine----17,000 rpm's + modified Zenoah

    If you are any good at modifiying these engines there is plenty of money to be made in this hobby....





    .
     

Share This Page