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leaf springs

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by RATAH, Nov 12, 2002.

  1. RATAH

    RATAH 1/2 ton status

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    Hello
    how many spring are there on a stock 85 blazer?
    mine has 6 in the rear
    and 3 in the front
    no blocks
    just wondering
    Thanks
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    2/5 or 3/6 optional for the most part.

    You could probably get a 2/6 and 3/5 as well, but I don't recall ever seeing that on a truck I knew was stock. (although the CUCV's may have 3/5 for the diesel weight IIRC)

    I've never seen any factory literature stating exactly what was available what years, unlike earlier manuals that did show how many different springs were available.
     
  3. RATAH

    RATAH 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks
    another ?
    the sticker in the glove box says rear axle 3.08
    it had a 700r4 and a 208tase
    i switched to a 350 205tcase
    is that gear ok with the 350 and 205
    also says tire size 31.5x10.5x15
    thats whats on it now
     
  4. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    You should be fine with your gearing as long as you don't go bigger than 31".
    I did have 32" with the 350/205 and it felt sluggish, but the 350 can take it. not the 700 though.
     
  5. RATAH

    RATAH 1/2 ton status

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    thanks
    what would be better than the 3.08?
     
  6. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    honestly? anything!

    I need to kinda guage where you are headed with the rig. i think 3.73 a decent for 35" but as soon as you go 38+ your gonna need 4.88's or higher.

    I am running 4.10's and 39.5's and on steep grades and hills it is a joke.
     
  7. RATAH

    RATAH 1/2 ton status

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    well id like to get 35's in a few months
    and a 2in lift
    dont wanna go to high as this is a daily driver
    and i pull my boat about 4 times a week to the lake
     
  8. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    i know nothing about towing. my guess would be to have 4.10's so that you have the pulling power and so that you do not roast the tranny.
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    ACTUALLY....the 700 is a better choice without changing the gears for 1st gear only. (lower than the 350) However, 700's don't like being lugged, which is what would happen with larger tires. I had 3.08's and 31's with a 700, it was ok city driving, but OD was pretty useless under 60MPH on anything but flat ground.

    Personally, if you don't wheel, and stick with 33" tires, 3.42's seem to be very close to perfect. That is if you don't like to race. Daily driver/towing is still kind of a rough combination, (and 3.42's won't be ideal) the 700 would be better suited for BOTH uses, just because you could use steeper rear gears and cruise ok, but the TH350 tends to be stronger "stock".

    Don't have much answer for you, just have to decide where you want to compromise...mileage, engine wear/speed, acceleration, towing power, height, etc. and take it from there.

    If its only for show, personally, I don't like lifts. If I was towing as often as you, I don't think I'd go for a lift either, especially when you can usually fit 33's with no mods. Thats just personal opinion though.
     
  10. RATAH

    RATAH 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks zakk and Dorian
    i would like to do some wheeling but
    not the hardcore kind you guys do /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
    what ever i decide should the front be geared the same?
    sorry for all the newbie ?'s but iam new to this
    and wanna learn
    Thanks again guys
     
  11. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    yes, the gearing must be nearly identical or you will nuke your t-case.

    Examples:
    4.09 & 4.11 are OK

    3.08 & 3.42 is not
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I definitely don't hard core wheel lol.

    I've got too much time and money into my truck and its body to take it out and put dents in it having fun. Scratches are ok, dents are out. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  13. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    i only wheel the 3" and smaller curbs. any more and my brakelines will snap /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  14. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Ratah
    If you want to put 35" tires with 2" of lift, you will have the same setup I have now.
    Just to drive it on the street I had to cut 4" of the fenders in front of and behind the fron tire for turning.
    When I went off road I had to take the same from the top. and a couple of inches on the rear fnder.
    So expect a lot of trimming.
    As for the gearing, if towing and a litle off road is your game then low gearing will be nice so 4.56 or 4.11
    If you will be driving it daily and some occasionnal towing or off road, then 3.73 would be good, if you keep the 350.
    With if you want to go back to the 700 then 4.11 is a minimum in my opinion.
    33" cleared perfectly with the 2"lift, and only rubbed slightly when I went off road in extreme places, so if you don't want to cut it, go with 33" and 3.42 or 3.73/4.11 for the above reasons.
     
  15. RATAH

    RATAH 1/2 ton status

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    anyone know where i can price the gears
    maybe a website
    Thankyou all for your time
    I love this website /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  16. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    I would recommend Randy's ring & pinion
    But then you need someone to install them.
    There are others, but I think these are the best I've seen for the best price.
     
  17. RATAH

    RATAH 1/2 ton status

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    I think a guy i work with can help me do it
    we work at Chrysler plant in dayton
    and he is a machine repairman,,
    oh BTW i dont own a Chrysler product,
    im a Chevy man
    i get doged at work when i wear my Chevy Truck hat /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
    but they can kiss my azzzzzzzzzz !!!
     
  18. VisionxOrb

    VisionxOrb 1/2 ton status

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    I run 4.88s with 35s and a 700, in OD I can keep up on the SoCal freeways with out to much RPM.
     

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