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leak in T-case - temp. fix

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bigblue, Apr 12, 2001.

  1. bigblue

    bigblue 1/2 ton status

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    What is good for a temporary fix for a leak on the bottom of my t-case. The 208 looks like it is leaking from the bottom part through the gasket? later

    [​IMG]<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by bigblue on 04/12/01 02:34 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  2. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    Why go temporay when you can fix it for good in a day. First you have to take some stuff off. Make sure you have the case in 4-wheel drive so nothing moves and some blocks under the tires couldn't hurt. Take of your driveshaft, careful some fluid will leak out. Undo your speedo cable, it comes off by hand. Take off your skid plate on the bottom, if you have one. Then undo the bottom drain plug, its some odd 1'+ size, buts its not metric. The get a 15mm socket and ratchet (I think its 15 or 14) and take out the four bolts that hold on your tailshaft. Pull that off and store it somewhere clean. Then there should be a big plastic round thing and a little gear on the shaft (speedo gear), take those off and it put it with the tailshaft. Then go around and take out all the bolts that holds the case halves together, note that 2 bolts have washers, remember where those 2 go. Then CAREFULLY pull your case halves apart. There will be a little magnet in the bottom of the case, catch that with your hand. Then open the case a little more and have a peak inside. There should be some washers in there and a spring. Remember how those washers are stacked, if you can't remember just send me a Personal Message and I'll check my GM unit manual. Also there will be a little spring and with a cap on it that comes out. With all the things that fall off outta the way, pull the back half off. Scrap off all the old silicone and run it through the parts washer. Then put some degreaser on the lip of the case so it will hold the silicone. Then put a bead of RTV around the whole thing.

    Now take those washers and put them on the bottom shaft in the order they were originally. Now slide on your case half so there's enough room to fit your hand in the gap. Take your spring and that little cap and put it back in there. The little cap will be a pain to keep on that spring so use a little grease to hold it on there. Alright, if everything is in position on the inside, push that half tight. Put in your bolts, noting where the two with the washer go. Get the bolts just BARELY snug and leave it (you'll torque them up in around 24 hours, if you wait then all silicone wont get all smooshed and you'll have a thicker gasket). (I torqued it up fully the first time and had to put in a bushing the week after and the silicone wasnt dry).

    Since you have your tailshaft off you have the option to change your rear seal and the bushing. This is totally optionial, I did it because it was easier this way. Popping off that rear seal just takes a delicate touch with a small chizel. Then there is a bushing inside the shaft. Again, delicate touch with a small chizel, just punch down into the insides. Now you've got a bushing jingle around in there. Get a big f***in screwdriver and bend that bushing into an iddy biddy nothing. Be careful not to damage the aluminum off the case. A shop rag rapped around the shaft of the screwdriver will ensure you don't damage it. Drive in your new bushing. Then get your new oil seal, put a little RTV on it and hammer into position.

    Guess what, tailshaft is now ready if you choose to do the bushing/seal replacement. Take your tailshaft and put a bead of RTV any where thats flat on that lip. I put the RTV on my case half the first time and as a result it didn't get on every surface, so it leaked a little. Now drop in that round black thing. Now slide on that little plastic gear on your rear shaft. Take your tailshaft and slide it into position. Again, very light torque, then full torque around 24 hours later.

    OK, its tommorow! Fully torque all your bolts. Put on your rear driveshaft. Remove the top fill plug and put in 5 quarts of Dexron III. Those little coneshaped ends on the top of axle grease bottles help alot to fill the thing. Then put your fill plug back in. Slap on your skid plate and speedo cable. Well, looks like you're done now, no more leaks and its done right. If you have any questions just ask 'cause I can do this in my sleep.

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  3. bigblue

    bigblue 1/2 ton status

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    wow, now that is an incredible answer. thanks blazer boy !!!

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  4. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    No prob, lol. If you're not in the mood for all that work you might be able to leave the tailshaft on. I did but the case halves wouldn't come fully apart, came damn close! Taking the tailshaft off just makes it easier to take the back half of the case off. I'd do all the work over a weekend (bushing/oil seal optional), might as well get it all done. Just remember how the thing came apart. Good luck and write if you get stuck. (I'll be gone Fri-Sun)

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