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Leakin Headers

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Suffergauge, Oct 25, 2002.

  1. Suffergauge

    Suffergauge 1/2 ton status

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    Does anyone know a trick to keep these stupid headers from getting exhaust leaks all the time? It is making me insane, every week... tick tick tick, fix 'em then tick tick tick!!! I have the header bolt locks on most of the bolts, it is impossible to get all of them on, and it doesn't really seem to help.

    Thanks,
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I use stock GM manifold gaskets instead of header gaskets and socket head capscrews for better accessablity. I do occasionally have to re-tighten them but it's never more often than once every 4-6 months.

    The manifold gaskets are super easy to install too. get all the bolts started and drop the gaskets in between the loose header and the head. They have open ended bolt holes so they can go in after all the bolts are started./forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    for the collectors I use the "Dead soft" aluminum re-usable collector gaskets and stover nuts. They still loosen but it takes about a year before they need tightening...

    Rene
     
  3. rogerwilco71

    rogerwilco71 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    socket head capscrews

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I second that! My cussing became non-existant after those /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  4. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Here's another vote for the socket head screws. I used 'em on my '77. I carried a Bondhus straight ball driver in my truck all the time, along with a long handled Craftsman 1/4 &amp; 5/16 box end wrench. The Bondhus driver has a ball shaped end so that you don't have to have en exact straight shot into the head of the bolt. The handle on it is like a screwdriver, so you can't put a whole lot of torque to the bolt. This is where the Craftsman wrench came in. Slip the 5/16's end of the wrench over the ball driver and now you can use the wrench to apply enough torque to the bolt. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    You can see a set of the Bondhus ball drivers here: http://www.bondhus.com/product%20catalog/balldriver_screwdriver_sets_and_.htm
     
  5. jackedjimmy350

    jackedjimmy350 1/2 ton status

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    dont laugh /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif, but what do socket head capscrews look like? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    It's basically an allen head bolt...like the little allen head bolts that hold the locking hub on.

    Rene
     
  7. Suffergauge

    Suffergauge 1/2 ton status

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    Ya know I was gonna ask what socket head cap screws were too... but it sounds like I already have 'em! The kit (which was already on the rig when I got it) for locking header bolts, has the internal wrenching type of bolts. I can get to them with either an allen wrench or a 7/16 wrench. I'll try the stock type of gasket.... that sounds soooooooo much easier than what I have to go through now and the aluminum collector gasket too. Thanks,
     
  8. xnoahx

    xnoahx 1/2 ton status

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    I dont have many problems with sealing at the heads, I have the drop in gaskets too. Where I do have trouble is at the flange on the collector. Leaks like crazy. So yeasterday I ordered a new Flowmaster ball-flange header clooector/reducer that you weld on to your headers and exhaust piping. It is supposed to eliminate all leaks down there. Its about $40 through summit, chack it out on the flowmaster page here
     
  9. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    I use RTV (Copper) on my gaskets. I have been running them for about two years with no problems.

    Make sure the RTV is O2 sensor safe - if you hane an O2 sensor like me.

    Good luck.
     

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