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Leaking Axle Fluid at Inner Front Wheel

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by prossett, Oct 29, 2005.

  1. prossett

    prossett 1/2 ton status

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    I've got a leak that empties my front axle oil onto the inside of my wheel.

    1983 GMC Jimmy, 4WD, and I've never opened one before.

    I've had a look through the Haynes, and I'm about to put in an order for an axle oil seal.

    Please see if I've got this right: I have a full-floating axle because there's a hub on the end, with torx bolts. Now, the oil seal would be in the hub, not the axle itself, and therefore I need to order an inner and outer hub seal. Something like:

    SKF 22311 CR SEAL - Wheel Front (4 W/D) - Spindle Hub: Front Wheel 4 W/D; Inner. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=SKF&mfrpartnumber=22311&parttype=914&ptset=A

    And then also get the 'outer' seal as well.

    Does it look like I've got it right?

    Any pitfalls or tricks to share? For the bearings the Haynes says a special spanner is required, but for the seals?
     
  2. Fubeca

    Fubeca 1/2 ton status

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    If you are leaking gear oil from the differential - its the inner axle seal. The seals at the spindle keep dust out of the wheel bearings and keep the grease in. The seals that keep the gear oil in are at the end of the axle tubes right where they are attached to the differential housing. They are a little more fun to replace :D
     
  3. prossett

    prossett 1/2 ton status

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    Is that the case for both floating and semi-floating?

    The only other axle seals/bearings I've replaced are those at the back of a YJ, on a D35c. Basically, you took the wheels off, released the C-clip, pulled out the axle shaft, and there was the seal right at the end - piece of cake. (the bearing was a bit of a bear and in the end got it out with a long pipe from the other side!)

    How different would the 10-bolt axle on the front of a 1983 K5 with automatic locking hubs be?

    Do I need to take apart the inner workings of the hub to get to the axle or can I just take it off in one block? The Haynes details opening up the hub, and it looks way to complex to have to do all that just to get to the axle.

    That would also mean I have the wrong parts, with the inner/outer thing being in the hub itself... and not a simple regular oil seal on the end of the axle.

    Here's the results of a search for "axle shaft seal" at the place I need to place my order (so my friend can then mail them to me) - I don't see any besides the hub seals: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=914&ptset=A&searchfor=Front+Axle+Shaft+Seal
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2005
  4. readymix

    readymix 3/4 ton status

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    all front axles are full floating since they need to turn. You will have to completely disasemble the whole axle so you can pull the shafts then the carrier.

    It sounds like a pain but it really is not that bad
     
  5. prossett

    prossett 1/2 ton status

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    So I guess that means I'll need the special hub nut socket, right?
     
  6. redneckdude

    redneckdude 1/2 ton status

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    yep...you gotta pull off both hubs, beyond the spindle to the knuckle, pull the shafts out, then unbolt the carrier and pull it out...then knock out the old seal, put the new one in and put it all back together...its a fun job...
     
  7. prossett

    prossett 1/2 ton status

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    by carrier you mean the differential carrier, where the spider gears nest, so you mean I can't pry the axle oil seal from the wheel side, but need to drain and open the pumpkin and knock it out from that side?

    OK, I'll try it as soon as I can find the spindle locknut socket, 4-prong one right?

    I'm learning so much, it's great!
     

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