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Let the wiring commence!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 73k5blazer, Jan 19, 2006.

  1. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    Almost have all the pieces to actually start pulling wire! No unmanly fuse box for me, all Potter&Brumfield toggle switch circuit breakers, all crosslink SXL rated wire, solder ring heat shrink terminals, stereo rca cables and speaker cables will be pulled through liquid tight sealed conduit (no unsightly wires in my clean line-x'd interior). Power provided by the biggest yellow top optima (D31A) they make. Just need to shimmy up the plan a little better, a few more pieces, and start wiring.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2008
  2. chevyfumes

    chevyfumes Court jester

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    Watch for the muzzleflash!
    you suck ale...;)
     
  3. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    Well, drink mabey, but not suck. Just tip, and gravity does the rest for you!
     
  4. Robert79K5

    Robert79K5 1/2 ton status

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    Speaking of... That looks like a molson canadian sitting on your k5... You obviously have good taste. :waytogo:
     
  5. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    Nothing but the best for wiring and beer!
     
  6. 2Dogs

    2Dogs 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Have been doing a bit of wirng myself lately, noticed that not all wires are created equal - can you tell me more about your non-stereo wiring? Like what would you recommend and where to get it?

    I have some wiring in the truck done just a cupla years ago that is already cracking.... :eek1:

    Thanks!
     
  7. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    Well, I'm lucky, one of my good friends is a EE (Electrical Engineer). He taught me that, indeed, not all wires are created equal. Insulation widly varies and is probably the most important factor next to sizing it proper for the circuit. THere are 2 basic insulation types for automotive use. Crosslinked and non-crosslink. Non-crosslink is GPT rated, good from -40c to 80c. Cross link is rated -51c to 125c. But more importantly is the quality control of the manufacture of the wire as well. WHat you find at most auto stores, k-mart, sears, etc is "primary wire", perhaps not even GPT rated, but usally it is. (if the package doesn't state what the rating is, beware beware, very cheap, might melt in your hands!) But because this is the cheapest and most sought after for public resale , there are alot of unscrupolous manufactures of this wire, and it might not live up to the standard (in alot of cases, it doesn't). If you go for crosslinked wire, there's alot less of this (because it's more expensive), and usally only custom shops and OEM's are buying it so the quality control is there and it better live up to the standard. Cross link comes in SXL (thick insulation, better abrasion protection), TXL and GXL just thinner versions of crosslink, still living up to the temp standard, just a little thinner for easier packaging in connectors (like those 50+pin computer connectors). For marine use you get into tinned wires for corrosion protection, industrial uses, locomotive uses see still different insulations yet, but now your talking some major coin. I happen to have a 50' spool of 2 ga I scored (the loose coil on the right of the bottom most row in the pic) from a suite in a building where I used to work they were moving out and getting rid of thier "samples", it's rated -70c to 310c, for locmotive use. THis stuff is $38/foot if you went to buy it.
    The SAE standards specifcally state that GPT wire shold not be used in the engine compartment of vehicles. Crosslink wire only here. The OEM's stick mostly with crosslink (SXL,GXL or TXL, the 'X' is for crosslink) wire throughout.
    Terminal connections are another very important area of concern. Again, most auto store are selling very cheap viynl insulated terminals. These things suck, aren't sealed, are prone to a very poor connection, voltage loss, and longevity concerns. I like solder ring heat shrink terminals, no crimping, insert wire, place infront of proper heat gun and it melts a pre-inserted solder ring and shirnks the heat tubiung around the whole thing, a perfectg sealed connection. Crimping can be good too, but more often than not, the person crimping doesn't know how to do it right and the connection ends up being bad. Now solder ring connections aren't without their problems as well, try doing that to a 50pin connector and you have 10lbs hanging off the connector body, not good. OEM's would avoid that, they would use just crimp style there.
    I bought all my wire and terminals from www.delcity.net. Other places sell all this stuff too, but they have the cheapest prices for most things (like the made in USA crosslink wire).
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2006
  8. afroman006

    afroman006 1/2 ton status

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    Good info, thanks.
     
  9. 2Dogs

    2Dogs 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Ah, finally!! Excellent, confirmed some of my worries and gave me the ability to get what I want - thank you.
     
  10. mini_mull

    mini_mull 1/2 ton status

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    Good info post, this one's going in my truck info favs.
     
  11. Mudbone

    Mudbone Registered Member

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    Where are you getting the circuit breakers from and how are you going to mount them? Do they make some type of water proof breaker box?
     
  12. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    I got breakers from various places. eBay mostly though. (I've been collecting for the last year The ones I use are $25/piece :eek1: if you buy them from an electrical supply house. I can usally get 'em off eBay for $2-5 piece
    These are the ones I'm using.. The W31 series. NIce because you can flip the switch and shut down a whole circuit. Im either going to mount them between the glovebox and ashtray, or on a piece of nice polished angle mounted to the bottom of the dash under the ashtray in the center. I'm leaning towards the real estate between the glove box and ashtray though. No more fumbling in the dark with a flashlight banging your head on sharp objects trying to read and pull the right fuse.
    No need for water proof, it's in the cab. No planny on fording anything more than a few feet deep.
     
  13. Mudbone

    Mudbone Registered Member

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    So how do you tell when one's been tripped? Does it actually throw that toggle? I have a complete rewiring project on an 88 Burb in the near future. I have used Del City wiring and parts before. Although I might use a Painless setup. They have an offroad waterproof setup. I like the conduit idea. Do they make connectors and Tees for use with that type of conduit?
     
  14. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    Yep, for the stereo rca's and speaker wire, all pullied through that liquid tight stuff. They have 90's and butt, and straight terminals. THey work good.
     
  15. Mudbone

    Mudbone Registered Member

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    so you are or are not using the liquid tight conduit for chassis wiring, IE tail lights, gas pump, etc, all the SXL stuff?
     
  16. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    Just SXL for chassis wiring not in the liquid tight. It will be placed in split loom. The stereo stuff needs extra protection from outside elements, those rca and speaker wire weren't meant for underbody duty, plus the extra shielding from metal and power should keep out any excess noise from the system. Liquidtight is nice, but very big, I wouldn't have enough room to run it for everything else. The SXL wire is rated for exposure to heat and the elements, in split loom it should do even better. I did consider liquid tight for the rear run, but there is so much, tail, brake, backup, winch, high-power backup, and the 7pin trailer harness, I'd need at least 2 3/4" runs (they only sell it in 1/2" or 3/4", and thats ID, 3/4" id is 1" od". Too much space. The longer the run too, the more space you need to leave free in there, that stuff is brutal for pulling wire through it.
    To answer your question about the breakers, yes it throws the toggle to an intermediary position, almost like a home circuit breaker.
     
  17. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    Here's how the Liquid tight looks. Looks nice finished, but this stuff is a bear to work with.

    This picture is the camera insert into the right rear wheel looking forward. This cable is carrying subwoffer RCA cables, RR speaker cable, Sub-woofer remote gain and turn-on leads.

    [​IMG]

    This is the junction box on the left side just infront of rear tire. 2 forward conduits will run to the firewall, one conduit to the left side (yet to be hooked up), and one conduit to the right side (already hooked up).

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2008
  18. CustomChevy

    CustomChevy 1/2 ton status

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    you clearly have none.


    or have never tasted a REAL canadian beer. Molson Canadian is for underagers and people who dont like beer.
     
  19. Mudbone

    Mudbone Registered Member

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    Are you planning on putting in any fishing line or other line to make future pulls? And I am assuming that you are aware of the water based wire pulling aids? I have found them to be very useful.

    Oh btw, since you aren't planning on running a traditional fuse box, how are you going to wire up and mount your turn signal flasher(s)?
     
  20. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    No I wasn't planning on leaving in fishing line for the future. Perhaps I should, I never thought of it. Yeah, I read about the the pulling lubricants, I'd have to order it though, I got em through without damage. My bigges problem was I was trying to pull the pre-terminated RCA cables, and those RCA phono termintors are huge. So I snipped them off and then they all slid through very nicly. I'll have to buy the $12.99/piece RCA terminators for one end of those cables.
    2 prong flashers (which is what I'll use) are just standalone units, base and flasher, 2 wires, power in, flashing power out. Determine max number of lights to be flashed and size actual flasher accordingly.
     

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