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lets talk about vacume lines, pretend I am a retard on this subject

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by supersize75, Feb 1, 2003.

  1. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    Ok heres the deal, I swaped in a 396, turbo 400 tranny which both work, however I have no clue when it come to vacume lines.

    what I need to know it what conects to where?

    What I do know is that there is a hook up on the..

    carb how many though?
    tranny
    brake booster

    this is all I know, but I dont know how to hook any of it up, I really would appritiate some help so I can get this thing moving. I am just having so much fun putting a car back to gether from the frame up /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

    also..

    Does anyone know what the part # is for the 14bolt ff drive shaft u-bolts?

    I swapped in the 14 bolt but dont have this and napa keeps giving me the wrong one, the guy wont listin when I try to explaine that I swapped in the 14 bolt, so he just kept tellin me oh its the same for all blazers, oviously he wasn't listining so I said what ever and tried it to humor him and by golly what a suprise the thing didn't work, /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif go figure duh, so I figure I will just get a part #.

    More questions... /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif

    -Will pore 15 remove or just nutralize rust? where to get it? I started grinding on my floor and realized I am not getting any were fast. other products?

    -What makes the hook hinges go bad?, is there a solution, or will just reinforcing the hood at the bracket work. I ask because I just toasted a new hood and bought another one today and dont want to do it again.


    [​IMG]


    Thanks again, I know I ad alot of questions. I am just trying to build this thing the right way, the first time. I have already made costly mistakes and I dont really have any one around who can help me or give me advice. You wouldn't belive how hard mounting a loaded tailgate 4 feet in the air can be when ya do it on your own, lol /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
    figureing out the fan belts was real fun too, jeez.
    I am also convering the front to 8 lug on sunday so any tips are welcome. Can hardly wait to get rid of the dragster look.
     
  2. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    Brake booster vac line hooks to the manifold behind the carb and should not have anything else hooked to it. Can't remember where the tranny vac hooks up. Buy the ubolt's parts for the drive shaft and tell him the year and make you got the 14 bolt from that should clear that up. Never used por15 so I can't help ya there. the hook type hinges for your hood. They get stiffer over the years due to rust and such. lube them up real good. The hood gets weaker over the years from stressing it on those hinges. I have heard of some guys warming the spring with a torch. Don't know if I like that one but I heard it works. Another thing you could do hear is remove the springs and find a way to stretch them a little. or maybe extend a mounting point. Talk to a spring place maybe there is a weaker spring that can be made to work. I wonder if the newer style hinges would bolt in place. I know exactly what you mean when nobody is around to help you. I have come up with some really ridiculous ways of getting things done. Try removing a hood by yourself. 4 tie downs hooked to the rafters and a little caution. Good luck and don't give up. looks good so far.

    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. leadfoot067

    leadfoot067 1/2 ton status

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    on the carb...its safe to assume any vacume fittings at the throttle plate level will be full manifold vacume..any ports higher up should be ported vacume(only sucks when the throttle is opened)....so tranny should go to full vacume,as should the brake booster(most likely to the manifold at the rear of the carb or sometimes directly to the back of the carb at the bottom) and your distributor vacume advance needs to be hooked at a ported vacume source (usually at the front of the carb (about midway up somewhere).....what carb do ya have???? by the way its always better to ask a question than try to muddle thru stuff and have to re-do work later /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    I have the elderbrock performer series 750 cfm /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  5. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    c'mon guys /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
     
  6. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    You should have had me look at it when I was there today. I could have gotten it figured out.

    Dan /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  7. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    The part #'s for the u joints as far as I remember are either 383 or 417 depending on the style of retaing clip you need. I'm not sure of the 417 # tho.
     
  8. chulisohombre

    chulisohombre 1/2 ton status

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    on the carb you should have a big hole on the back of the carb facing firwall.your brake booster should be hooked up there.you should put a fitting in the intake somewhere on the rear of it where there is a full vaccuum port.that hook into the moduator fior the tranny.it has to have full vaccuum to work properly.you should have one vaccuum line running from the passenger side port on the front of the carb to the distributor for vaccuum advance.you should have a rubber plug that came with the carb to block off the other front port on the carb.if you are looking for the conversion joint for the 14 bolt it is neapco part #3-3140 so you can use your stock driveshaft with 1310 yolk.never used por 15 or changed hood hinges on my blazer and also i have a first gen so i dont have the the same hood problems.hope this helps man. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  9. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    damn, like I said lets just pretend I am a retard, will have pics up yesterday up later, thanks again for pullin out the f*rd /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  10. supersize75

    supersize75 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks again, I will have less frustration while doing this now, you guys really don't understand how much I appritiate all the help, it saves me alot of time and money.

    (sobbs)...you guys are great, more (soobs) thanks - shawn /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  11. K1Orion

    K1Orion 1/2 ton status

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    I am doing a similiar swap. I am putting a .060 396 in my K10. I also have an ELDERBROCK carb, haha. On the back of the carb there is a threaded hole. Put a nipple in there and hook this port to your brake booster. It is a good idea to put a filter/check valve thingy on this line. Ask abut it at the parts place. It is possible to reuse part of the hard line going to the booster.
    The big nipple on the front of the carb should be hooked to a PCV valve or plugged.
    The little nipple on the right side of the front of the carb I hooked to the vacuum advance canister on the distributor. I capped the nipple on the left side.That is it for carb vacuum lines.
    You should have some kind of port on your intake manifold to put a T in. Hook up one vacuum line to this T and run it over to the passenger side firewall near the heater/AC box. There will be some kind of reserve canister there. A round(on my truck)plastic thing about the size of a tennis ball with 2 nipples on it bolted to the firewall. This hose operates the doors in your heater/AC assembly inside the cab when you switch from defrost/floor/vent/etc...
    Hook up the other hose on the T to your vacuum module on the passenger side of the transmission. If you don't hook this up your truck will not shift from 2-3 properly. It is best to use hard line for this with small pieces of rubber line on the ends to make the connections. I have used all rubber before but a hard line is less likey to get pinched or melted on something. I ran this line down the back of the motor and the top of the bellhousing and the transmission. I have heard of rubber line even getting sucked closed on balls out race cars.
    I have also ruined a hood because of crappy hinges. I figured out that if you keep ALL the pivot points on the hinges lubed with penetrating oil/WD-40 it will open/close much easier. I just shoot a little in there every time the hood is open.
    I hope this is retarded enough for you and helps you out.
    Good luck with the 6-8 lug swap.
     
  12. K1Orion

    K1Orion 1/2 ton status

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    I know what you mean about working by yourself. I have considered dumping my attractive/intelligent/employed fiancee in favor of an ugly/fat woman who can deadlift a bare BBchevy block.
    This is off the subject, but where did you get the accesory brackets for your BB?
     
  13. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Hey no problem, I like pulling fords out, especially when there are crowds and video cameras /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    Dan /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     

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