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Lift Help

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Skipto, Apr 8, 2006.

  1. Skipto

    Skipto Registered Member

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    hello i have a project jammy Ks and was wondering how much of a lift i can put in befor i need to extend the drive shafts. also if there is a place to find retractable drive shafts. i plain on geting 8in lift wiht a 3 in body lift. plz give em any usfull information u may have thx

    Jamie Wighton (Skipto)
     
  2. blaze4999

    blaze4999 Registered Member

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    yeah i just put a 4 inch lift on my 74 blazer. took me like four hours to figure out my driveshaft wasn't long enough. Good luck hope this helps
     
  3. Skipto

    Skipto Registered Member

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    ok so no matter how hight i go i'll have to extend the driveshafts. thats good to now. thx man ps i would liek to see some pics if i have any of your 74
     
  4. unclematty

    unclematty 1/2 ton status

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    I read this and thought that maybe I could give a little advice.

    any lift larger than about an inch or two at most is gonna mess up the Ujoint angles, That being said, I currently am running what you wish to run, 8 inch springs and 3 inch body lift. Just so we are clear this combo requires extensive modification, to both driveshats and steering and shifter and brake lines so be prepared for such, my blazer is so heavily modified I call it frankenblazer ???? lt me know, may take a while I don't venture into the garage here too often the lounge is where the fun is.
     
  5. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    4" is usually the average height you can go without lengthening the driveshafts. Some people run more than that but most people with 6" suspension have had their shafts lengthened. 8" will require longer driveshafts and everything mentioned above. Also as mentioned almost any lift will require U-joint angle correction.
     
  6. Skipto

    Skipto Registered Member

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    OK so by the sounds of it the 8 in suspension lift dosn't come wiht everythign i need. i'll need a correstion bar is that the same has the drop down bar? most of this stuff i can make i have the welder and most off the tooling. all i need is a tube bender haha. I'm Not sure how the steering is affected that much. DO i need to extend the steering arm i was told 3 in would work all i had to do was losen off the bolt befor i jack the body. theres on good thing. I have the rear floors all Cut out hahaha easyer to work on haha.
     
  7. unclematty

    unclematty 1/2 ton status

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    you probably need to go x-over steering for this tall of a lift anything else is gonna have issues
     
  8. Skipto

    Skipto Registered Member

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    :doah: i have been told i will need to get the front and rear end tilted so they drive don't bind or wear out on year time. does the lift come with any suck thing or do i have to buy a drop down kit as well to do this plz give me any info that may help. (First 4x4 project) I'm and old Lowrider hahah

    Jamie (Skipto)
     
  9. yoshisv

    yoshisv 1/2 ton status

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    Most after market lift springs have shims to correct some driveline angles, But you should also buy a kit to drop the transfercase to help out even further.
     
  10. Skipto

    Skipto Registered Member

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    ok thx man i'll have to look into the tranfercase drop and see what has to be done for it. this is goign to be a big project.

    one more thing i have a 1968 jimmy i'm buying its beat up but do the drive trains use the same drive shafts ?
     
  11. Jagged

    Jagged 1 ton status

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    Be careful about your caster if you're planning on rotating your front pinion. You'll have bad caster if you rotate without compensating at the knuckles (requiring you to cut off the knuckles and re-weld them on the axle tube). I forget whether it's positive or negative caster that results, but the end result is bad. You'll gain negative camber on your inside wheel, which isn't good for turning.
     
  12. Skipto

    Skipto Registered Member

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    thx jagged for that. I'll look into that more and see what i can find out. this is goign to be a project haha. for now i'm puting in my in body lift and new floors. i'll add pics to my profile when i figure out how ahhaa.
     
  13. Janitorjim8

    Janitorjim8 1/2 ton status

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    1st off, what size tires are you planning on running when done?
    Depending on how big of a tire you want to go, especially because you are already doing a 3 inch body lift, a 6 or even 4 inch lift would be plenty, even if you have to cut the fenders a bit. With these lifts the modifications you would need to make wouldn't be quite as much.
    Also you will realize the domino affect with a 4x4... bigger tires equals eventually you might blow up an axle, or depending on what gears you have you may want to go lower.
    2nd, use the search option for some stuff or just surf around here, you can learn alot.
     
  14. hawkeye649

    hawkeye649 1/2 ton status

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    If you don't drop the engine and transfer case the same ammount, you will actually make the front drive shaft angle at the t-case worse. Look into high-angle drive lines to fix your problem. Drive shaft lengths vary greatly with manual/auto and t-case options, and if that's the original drive train as well.
     
  15. Skipto

    Skipto Registered Member

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    i'm goign to run 38s on the truck and i'm looking not to cut the fenders. if posable i am geting a 454 for it soon to rebuild. i also get great deals on the sepention lift so i plan to go big haha. i want to jum to get in the f er haha. if i don't go all out then no point buying one haha. i want to mud it and never get stuck. (trought my swap haha) i have big plan and a good job to fund this. that and i love working on cars/ trucks. i'm scared of ****ing up the shaf angles and **** sence ths will be my first lift. body lift wont be has big of a deal i have done that befor. the rear floor was harder ahha. all custom haha.

    no one answered does the 68 drive line fit and whats the gearing in them front and rear difs ?
     
  16. hawkeye649

    hawkeye649 1/2 ton status

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    Yes I did, I said it's all different. :rolleyes:

    Just to let you know....
    With a little :hack: you can run 38's with about a 4-6" suspension lift with no body lift, and good flex, and you'll still plough through the mud.

    If you have a manual, the front d/s will be shorter and the rear longer than if you were to have an automatic. AFAIK there have always been gear options for the dif's offered from the factory, so if you trust them to be stock look inside the glove box for the RPO code, or if not just pop off a diff cover and look on the ring gear for the tooth count. :D
    With 8" of lift you will most like HAVE to go with custom d/s (as apposed to just modified stock). It would be the better way to go anyways. With 38's as well, there isn't a stock gear out there deep enough for you. Source a good 14BFF for the rear, and either a D60 for the front or a 3/4 equipment (hubs and brakes mostly) to modify the 1/2 D44 that's under there into a 3/4 D44. With your hot rod heritage avoid going the D60 rear route, the 14BFF just might have been secretly designed for lifted trucks without GM knowing about it. AMEN GM :bow:
    I would go with the D60 (front) if you have a good job to fund it, you should be able to get a used one in good shape for less than $1K depending on where you live and the 14b's are max like $200.00 in most places. Or since you probably have a D60 rear hanging around, flip it over get the tubes cut and there are plenty of places that sell the yokes, knuckles, etc. to make it into a front axle. Poof, instant high-pinion D60 to save on some d/s angle problems. Just don't forget the reverse cut gears! Also it will be easy to adjust for caster at this point, since you'll be attaching the yokes.
    Then some like 5.16's or deeper if you can find them, Detroit lockers front & Rear, a couple of High Angle drive shafts. Put a TH400 behind that 454 and back it up with an NP205. That should make a pretty killer mud setup. Just to let you know, all the flex in your truck will come from your frame.:haha:
    With what your looking to do, stock just isn't really an option. Have fun. :wink1:
     
  17. Skipto

    Skipto Registered Member

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    hoyl **** thats alot of info thx man i'll look in to al that. most off all i need to finich my body lift witch i had to get for my costum floor i built. i used 1 y 1 tubing juct for the floor. never fall apart again haha. but i will probably have questions about some thing u said i'll have to make sure i now what i'm talking abut befor i ask haha. thx again. oh and u said the # in the glove box will tell me the defs in the 68 ?

    thc skipto
     
  18. hawkeye649

    hawkeye649 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, just like the RPO codes in your hot rods would tell you the info on them. It tells you basically everything about the truck, what kind of springs shocks interior color, trim level, on and on and on.
     
  19. justhorsinaround

    justhorsinaround 3/4 ton status

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    Hey Skipto, why don't you learn how to spell and punctuate before you try posting anything ever again.
     
  20. hawkeye649

    hawkeye649 1/2 ton status

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    All things in time, my good friend. As one pactices writing, they will find day by day they improve. I am sure if you read my posts there are many spelling errors, as I am not all that great at the spelling aspect of things. If he got his point across too you that is more than enough, especially since this is a truck forum and not a novel.
    Now on the other hand, a far greater injustice is to say someone doesn't have the right to speak because they are not as afluent as yourself. :rolleyes:
    Freedom of speech, but only for the well spoken? :whistle:
     

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