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lift in process..help

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by gaine7, May 15, 2001.

  1. gaine7

    gaine7 Registered Member

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    4" Pro-Comp suspension lift and 35" tires
    I am done with the rear end of my 79 k5 and have found that my driveshaft has fallen out and now I am doing the front just to get it done and my very front spring eye bolts are stuck. I am using Air tools and BFH, I tried heating it with a propane torch, also used almost a whole can of WD40 on the truck days ago. It seems like both sides are stuck to the frame mount. Any Suggestions??? and how about the length of the drive shafts? please help.........
    Jim
    Clemson 79 k5
     
  2. Jason73K5

    Jason73K5 1/2 ton status

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    I don't know why you're having driveshaft problems with only a 4" lift. Has the truck been modded before? Have you tried using an air hammer with a flat headset to punch the bolts out? Also try using that torch to burn out the bushings if they're the problem.
     
  3. lehtola

    lehtola 1/2 ton status

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    have you taken all of the pressure off of the springs?

    1990 GMC Jimmy 350/TH700R4/NP241/10 bolts, 4" skyjacker lift, 35x12.50R15 BFG All Terrains on 15x10 AR Baja's, Flowmasters.
     
  4. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    I agree with Jason, a 4" lift shouldn't pull the drive shaft out far enough to fall out. Torch or sawzall the bolts and be done with it.

    Derf00
    http://www.derf00.coloradok5.com
    "Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in a more inaccessible place."
     
  5. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

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    Bad luck always starts and keeps getting worse untill you take a break from what your doing.[​IMG]

    I installed a 4" Pro-comp myself a month ago and I only lifted the rear enough to get the 33" tires off. I was wondering if that would be enough, thinking I maybe needed to drop the axle more to get the blocks in there. But I am glad I dident follow through on my instincts. You will have to slide the axle back in the t-case. Mark all the positions on your drive-line and disconnect it at the rear u-joint where the axle housing is. Then slide the driveshaft into the t-case and hook the driveline back to the cross in the same position as it was.

    For the front there is a cyllinder inside the eye-bolt bushing that's rustet stuck to your bolt. If you burn out the rubber you could get more room to get the blade off a saw upp there, and cut the bolt off. Then replace the bolt with a new grade 8 bolt.

    You'l have it done eventually. Just dont get mad and bend/break something expensive.

    Good luck, hope I helped some

    [​IMG] <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com>http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  6. gaine7

    gaine7 Registered Member

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    Thanks guys, I got the spring eye bolt out and man... it was a pain. heated again, used PB Blaster and my neighbor came over with a bigger BFH and we used his BFH in conjunction with my impact wrench. It came loose but I definitely need new bolts...I am calling the local 4wd place to see if they have any...as for the driveshaft are you sure just sliding it back in is going to keep it in. It fell out already in the back while I was lowering the axle to get the springs in. I will try it but I think when I lower the front axle to get the new springs in I may encounter the same thing. Thanks for your help and I am glad to be almost done with my first lift..
     
  7. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You can save your time and money from the local 4wd place and get these grade 8 bolts at the local hardware store. [​IMG]

    When In Doubt, Whip It Out!
     
  8. Sammy

    Sammy 1/2 ton status

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    Well on what lift size do you get driveshaft problems then?

    "K5 Grand GT Blazer Silverado in the Netherlands."
     
  9. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I have installed 6" lifts and still had to buy that 1" driveshaft spacer from Superlift. At 6", you start to have problems there depending on your driving habits. Anything over 6" will definitely need to be lengthend or a new longer shaft built. I have never had problems with the shafts on 4" lifts.
    BTW, that Superlift 1" spacer is a cheaper method of lengthening the shafts. It costs around $45.00 and thats a lot cheaper than a new shaft. [​IMG]

    When In Doubt, Whip It Out!
     
  10. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    WHAT a 4 inch lift WONT pull out the drive shaft... OK... Try tellin that to me goin down hill when I hit a bump and mine popped out....
    All trucks are different...
    Just cause yours didnt need it done doesnt mean his wont...
    Be safe... spend the 130 bucks an dget it lengthened 2 inches...

    [​IMG]See me at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.inhomenetworking.com/78jimmy.htm>http://www.inhomenetworking.com/78jimmy.htm</A>
     
  11. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Hey K30... can you use that on the rear shaft? I ordered one up figuring I need to get the rear lengthen and then use the spacer on the front.

    BTW have you lowered the t-case? That should ease the length needed atleast for the rear shaft.

    [​IMG]
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
     

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