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LIft Kit Install Problem -HELP PLEaSE

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by reddog64, Nov 19, 2000.

  1. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    I Started this install of my 4 inch lift kit but I cannt get the steering arm off... It's like there is bushings in the arm attatched to the axle and I cannot get them off... I cannot remove the stock arm .... How do I get it off the three bolts...
    HELP I need it done tomorrow...

    Um... yes officer I know it's too big...
     
  2. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    Not my normal answer, but have you tried a hammer? There may be rust or something between them. I assume you are talking about the arm on the nuckle.

    blazen91
    Protect the land FOR the people
    <font color=red>Not FROM the people</font color=red>
     
  3. shaggyk5

    shaggyk5 1/2 ton status

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    heat it and beat it.......

    oh yeah, dont hit up on it, hit straight down on that bitch. seems wrong but it will help.

    matt

    shaggyk5

    aint nuthin in the world like a heavy chevy!!
     
  4. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>You mean the bushings under the three nuts that hold the arm on? They are a b*tch to get out! Lots of penatrating oil + BFH = out (eventualy). Just remember, they're cone shaped so hit it from the top so you dont seat them tighter</font color=blue>
     
  5. edeslaur

    edeslaur Registered Member

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    I've had to pull mine three times - once to put the arm on, and once to move it to the new front axle.

    1. Remove the front tire on the driver's side only
    2. put the axle on a jackstand
    3. LEAVE the floorjack under the axle engaged (drop the axle down on the jackstand, then jack the jack up until it's touching the axle)
    4. remove the drag link from the arm
    4a. remove the nuts holding the steering arm to the axle.
    4b. Get out your 2.5 pound hammer
    5. Beat the hell out of your steering arm until the aluminum bushings start to pop up so you can get a bite on them with.
    I found that whacking up, then down on the end where the drag link goes seemed to work the best.
    As soon as one of those bushings pop up, grab it with a set of ViseGrips and unscrew it. The outsides end up molding to the threads which is what makes it hard to get them out.

    You can also try tapping them out (unscrewing) with a screwdriver & hammer, but that did not work for me.

    Make sure to use new bushings AND nuts with your new arm.

    Good luck,

    Eric D
    88 K30 Blazer
     
  6. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    So are they actually screwed in or pressed in... I need to beat the he!! out of it untill they pop part of the way up then grab and twist???
    Hope this works... I need it monday morning...
    Thanks guys...

    Um... yes officer I know it's too big...
     
  7. edeslaur

    edeslaur Registered Member

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    When you tighten the nuts, they get pressed in and they end up seating into the threads. This is good at 85 down the highway, bad for removal. :-)

    You'll whack on it for a while before they start to budge and think I'm lying, then the arm will start to loosen and you'll start seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.

    Hit it just hard enough to barely not damage the metal (mine is a little dented). A block of wood will nullify your efforts, so wear safety glasses.

    Just make sure you put your new arm on right, 'cause it SUCKS to take these off. Easier the 2nd time, tho, 'cause you know what you're doing.

    Eric D
    88 K30 Blazer
     
  8. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    Is there such thing as a pitman arm puller???

    Um... yes officer I know it's too big...
     
  9. edeslaur

    edeslaur Registered Member

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    Dunno - never checked. The parts store is about 15 minutes from here and I was sure I could pull it in under 30 (15 there, 15 back).

    E-
     
  10. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    PartsArmerica.Com has a pitman arm puller... think it'll work.... I'd pay the 12.99 for it... Cheaper than my time...

    Um... yes officer I know it's too big...
     
  11. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    we had this discussion about a day ago but oh well. The cones are just wedged in there from the top. Its like an i ice cream cone with the cone up right and around the bolt. So the largest end of the cone is on the top and the smallest part is on the bottom. I think if you know how it is in there it will help you. Anyways, i beat the hell out of mine with everything i could find and used all sorts of penetrating oils with no luck. I finally got the torch out, heated it up till it was glowing, and then wacked on the top of it really good. IT MOVED. haha Once it moved it came off easy and then i got up and jumped around like a monkey for a couple of minutes. Neighbors thought i was crazy, little did they know i worked on it for a day trying to figure it out. well hope all that helps

    Doug Krebs
     
  12. reddog64

    reddog64 1/2 ton status

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    AAAGGGHHHHHH

    What about the tortion (sp) bar... how the He!! do i get it down to the spring???

    Um... yes officer I know it's too big...
     
  13. KrebsATM02

    KrebsATM02 1/2 ton status

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    Re: AAAGGGHHHHHH

    I don't know what your talking about. Tortion bar???? Down the spring???? be more specific and descibe it

    Doug Krebs
     
  14. DOUGHBOY

    DOUGHBOY Registered Member

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    Re: AAAGGGHHHHHH

    those 12.99 pitman arm pullers are junk,we broke 3 of them till we decided to use a good old fashion BFH,THATS THE ONLY THING THAT WILL WORK

    guns dont kill postal workers do.
    CENTRAL ILLINOIS
     
  15. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    Re: AAAGGGHHHHHH

    When I took mine off I used the pene oil and then whacked it hard from the side at each cone like you would do a ball joint when you do not have a pickle fork. It took a little convincing since my truck is a 74 and it had been on for nearly 20 yrs when it got changed. But it you hit it just right it will break loose and then take vise grips, grab the cone and work it out by twisting it back and forth. Your worst enemy at this point will be the accumulated mud and rust from years gone by. As for the torsion bar. I assume you are talking about you sway bar. With a four inch lift you should look into Offroad Designs sway bar correction kit. It will get the geometry back correct and will make the truck ride better as well.
     
  16. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Re: AAAGGGHHHHHH

    Are you talking about the sway bar? I could'nt get mine to line up either, so I removed it. I never noticed any increase in body roll, so its become a carport ornament, and my truck became 23 lbs lighter in the front.[​IMG]

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     

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