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lift kit install question

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Kodiak, May 16, 2001.

  1. Kodiak

    Kodiak 1/2 ton status

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    I am going to put a 2 inch skyjacker lift on my 71. It seems pretty strait forward but I have never done it. Is it as simple as unbolting the old springs and putting on new ones without making any changes to anything?
    A local shop wants $350 to put it on. Just seems like alot of money to me. What do you think.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://kodiak.coloradok5.com>http://kodiak.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  2. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Basically is shocks, springs... and posible a 2" block for the steering and possibly drop brackets for the brake lines. I guess if you want to call it simply unbolting... but IMO I haven't found anything on a rig over a quarter of a century old yo be simple... can you say rusted, siezed, rounded off, f-ed up, broken off, etc. Old murphy's lasw is hanging over ya LOL. That is why the expense and also it will take some time to do... especially w/out a hoist or air tools. But it can be done w/ some work... not real difficult except the age and rust imo.

    [​IMG]
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
     
  3. ChadL

    ChadL Registered Member

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    I put on a skyjacker lift a couple weeks ago. It took me about 12 total hours, no air tools. It wasn't too tuff but have plenty of liquid wrench around. spray all the bolts the night before you start. I also deleted the skyjacker shocks from the kit and used rancho 9000 shock--supposedly much better than the sky's. The u-bolts need to be tightened to 110ft-lbs so have a good toque wrench. The drive line, brakes etc. needed no mods at all, but I did add sky's drop pitman arm,$85. I would recommend you get that, my steering arm is dead level again. also have a place to pick up grade 8 bolts. One of mine was destroyed during removal. Napa carried what I needed. I ran into a small issue with a jack and jack stands that were to short for the job but used some blocking to overcome that. The lift came out great. I also had some 33" BFG's put on the next day. I have a '71 also and it needs a 4" spring in the rear. That is how Sky sent the lift and it works fine, everything is level due to the extra weight in the rear. If you enjoy wrenching it is not technically difficult, just time consuming. If you really don't enjoy wrenching, pay the guys or you will be calling your Blazer more names than your x-girlfriend.
     
  4. travis

    travis 1/2 ton status

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    The front springs are pretty easy to install. The only problems I ran into was the removal of the original bolts. The nuts came off just fine but the bolts were rusted to the metal sleeve inside the bushings. I ended up grining off the heads and using a BFH and punch to drive the bolts out backwards. The rear should be no problem if you are using blocks. You just need longer ubolts and brake line extender. Springs may be a different issue. I haven't replaced them yet but mine looks like a nightmare to replace trying to get to the upper bolts on the shackles. Spray everything down with WD40 or drip some ATF on all the nuts the night before. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
     
  5. Ryan_B

    Ryan_B Registered Member

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    I agree with 72Travis... With my front leaf springs, the bolts were rusted into the sleeve and impossible to get out after you take off the nut. I even tried a hydraulic press & a bunch of 2X4's in between the framerails to press the rusted bolts out, but they still wouldn't budge!?!? I had to use a 4 1/2" angle grinder, and a big metal grinding blade on like a 12" circular saw. The front bolts on the front leaf springs, I had to grind each bolt all the way through in 2 places! I tried grinding off the head side, and punching em through, but those 30 year old bolts dont wanna budge sometimes.
    My rear leaf springs were an even bigger pain in the ass.
    The front bolts for the rear leafs came out too easy. The rear shacke bolts, neither one of them wanted to budge.
    And you'll notice somewhere along the process, that you probally can't get the top bolt on the shakle out until you take out the bottom bolt and remove the whole shakle and spring out of the truck.
    When I got to this point, I went to the Chevrolet Dealership, and after 15 minutes of explaining to the dude behind the counter, I had a new set of rear shackles on order.
    So in my case, I used the grinder again, and cut off each of the bottom shakle bolts in 2 places to get em out. Then I replaced the rear shakle, and leaf spring, all new bushings and Grade 8 hardware.
    All said & done with the new leaf springs front&rear, new driveshafts, new shocks, steering correction, I took my time and spent somewhere around 40 hours doing all this.
    Take your time, and degrease everything and paint the axles!
    It's fun and the results are well worth my time. Sure as hell beats paying someone else my hard earned money to work on my baby for me!
    Go For It Man
     
  6. Rasberry

    Rasberry 1/2 ton status

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  7. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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