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Lift Kits

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by hpfire7227, Aug 1, 2000.

  1. hpfire7227

    hpfire7227 Registered Member

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    OK, I've made the insane decision to purchase a lift at a time when I can't really afford it, but hey...I'm just a kid. All I want is a 2 1/2" kit, and the brand that gets the nod probably won't be determined until the day I pick up the phone to order. Either way, I'm really wondering how hard of a job are these things to put in? My brother and I put a 4" Black Diamond kit in his 73 pick-up, but I was more of a spectator and can't remember a damn thing about the install. What are the main things to look for and where do I expect a hard time? Thanks.

    10 BOLTS O' FUN
     
  2. chevy4x4

    chevy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    73-91 blazers, jimmies, suburbans and 73-87 chevy trucks are the easiest and cheapest to lift. I have never installed a lift kit myself but it doesn't look that difficult from what I read in the mags. If your brother knows how to install a lift kit, get him to come and help you. Don't let him do all the work but if you get stuck or need help ask him. This way you will know how to do it in the future. You might have a hard time removing the old springs in the front (I think). I have seen some blazers with a 2½ inch lift kit but were actually lifted close to 4 inches. I don't think you are going to have to lower the t case or lenghten the driveshafts with that small of a lift. You might have to get longer brake lines.

    <font color=red>JOIN MY K5 WEB RING!</font color=red>
    http://blazer-jimmy.coloradok5.com
     
  3. 78k5

    78k5 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 78 k5 and it was the easiest install I have ever done. I put on a 6" superlift and had no problems. Spray all the bolts that need to be removed from your truck ahead of time with some lubricant and you should be ok. You shouldn't need any driveshaft mods or brake lines extended I don't think. Check with someone that has a 2.5 lift on the brakelines first. But all in all it is very simple to complete, basically on a 2.5 it's just swapping springs and u-bolts.
     
  4. hpfire7227

    hpfire7227 Registered Member

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    Thanks for the replies. Now my question is: Should I put add-a-leaves in the rear to compensate for the sag, or will the kit itself compensate and level it out? I don't have very much sag as it is, but there's some. Oh, and will I need longer shocks? I just put new ones on, I'd hate to have to get new ones. Thanks again guys.

    10 BOLTS O' FUN
     
  5. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Wassup? I put on a 2.5 inch procomp lift,and when I was all done I put on add-a-leafs because the rear was sagging alot...I did not have the extend the brakelines,but had to get the driveshaft extended! later
     
  6. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Driveshafts extended on a 2.5" lift???? What, I have runa 4" lift and I am running a 6" lift now and I never touched the rear shaft and the front I used a Spacer. I get a good amount of articulation and I abuse my Jimmy and nver had a problem with either d-shaft!



    Mike [​IMG]
    1982 GMC Jimmy - <font color=green>Emmett</font color=green>
    http://emmett.coloradok5.com
     
  7. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    tell me about it....I went through about 2 U-Joints a month till I decided to get a new driveshaft...Haven't had a problem yet!(HELPS WHEN YOUR BUDDY WORKS AT A DRIVLINE SHOP)
     
  8. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Make sure you have a lot of blocks and jackstands to hold the truck up. Always use more than is necessary. All of that is cheap and safety is more important than having a lifted truck. The front is tougher of course, because of the steerting. It works pretty good to lift the front end by the axle, block/jack stand the frame and then lower the axle until the spring is no longer compressed. Then remove the U-bolt and the brake caliper and continue to lower the axle until you can get the old spring out and the new one in. Removing the caliper and attaching it to something higher up prevents putting tension on the brake line as you lower the axle. Remember that the axle will have to come down lower to get the lift spring in than it did to get the old one out. You can do just one spring at a time. About the only thing that you may not be able to do without air tools and a torch is the steering arm, if you decide that you need to replace it. This technique works fine in a garage or driveway, but if you can get acces to a vehicle hoist (that uses the frame, of course), that makes the job way easier.

    85 pretending to be a 90
    350 swapped in for stock 305
    5" of suspension lift 33/12.5/16.5
     
  9. Kelboski

    Kelboski 1/2 ton status

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    get a sledge hammer if you are planning on a new steering arm!..thats if you change your mind and go 4". the install is simple....but sometimes frustrating due to the old imovable bolts
     
  10. 89K5

    89K5 1/2 ton status

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    Kelboski's right. It took me and a friend just as long to get the arm off as it did to do the rest of the my lift.
    I have 4" Skyjacker (all springs), didn't have to lengthen the driveshaft. I did have to lower the t-case, felt like an earthquake when I drove it w/o the drop. I've only replaced 1 U-joint in two years. I don't beat it when I go wheelin, I drive it 60 highway miles per day. When it becomes my "play" vehicle, I'm going to get a new driveshaft - longer and stronger.
     
  11. Kelboski

    Kelboski 1/2 ton status

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    i had the same thing done as 89k5...same drive shaft, lowered the t-case, and the vibration went away. i've got a rough country 4" susp. lift.....no u joint probs........yet, i check the here and there
     
  12. Blazerbob

    Blazerbob 1/2 ton status

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    Hey, I just had to get my driveshaft lengthened 1.5 inches and the T-case lowered because of eating up u-joints and my blazer isn't even lifted yet.

    <font color=blue>Blazerbob</font color=blue>[​IMG]
     

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