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Lift question for a V3500 / K30

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 0llllll0, Apr 3, 2005.

  1. 0llllll0

    0llllll0 Registered Member

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    I want to install a 4" lift on my 91 V3500 crew cab and the only company that I can find that lists a lift for a 1 ton is Superlift (# K461). My questions are:

    1. Can I use standard 4" springs for the 1/2 & 3/4 tons? I know they will fit but will they handle the D60 weight, and I will be towing an enclosed 20' trailer with a CJ5 inside.

    2. Does anyone else other than superlift have a kit for the D60 U-Bolts, and rear blocks etc.. for the 14BFF?

    3. How should I take care of the steering? Is the 3" steering block O.K. for a 4" or should I get a offset drag link?

    If anyone has a 4 or 6" lift on a straight axle 1 ton what kind do you have and have you been happy with the ride etc...

    Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

    [​IMG]

    Thanks,
    Ken
     
  2. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

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    I bought a Rough Country lift for my 91. RC typically has the highest spring rates (stiffest springs) so I bought there's hoping the front springs could handle the crew cab weight the best. If you look at the individual part numbers you'll see that the front springs in kits are the same for 1/2, 3/4 and 1 tons (this applies to all brands).

    Right now I've got blocks in the rear with the stock springs. Eventually, I may have a custom spring maker (like Alcan) make some rears for it but not right now. Initially I had add-a-leafs but they broke, I assume it was because they are not designed to be used on the big OE 9 leaf sets.

    Here is a pic of my truck, it's got 6" with 35" BFG's

    [​IMG]


    Any history/specs on your truck? It looks like a retired USAF truck (like mine).
     
  3. k20

    k20 3/4 ton status

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    hey man, dont know about your initial question, sweet lookin truck, can you do me a favor and take a closeup pic of your 2 spotlights? How they go in the cab, the handle on theinside, etc. Im thinkin about puttin em on mine. Thanks man. Chris.
     
  4. 1-ton

    1-ton 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I also own a 1991 V3500 3+3 Crew Cab 4X4. I have a SkyJacker 4" lift with a 1" body lift (for a total of 5" lift). Even though the front springs have the SkyJacker brand name on them, I think many companies get their springs off the same pile, and just stamp their name on it. I have a set of 3" cast iron blocks in the rear with an 2" add-a-leaf (I have not had a problem with the add-a-leaf yet, but who knows in the future). I also have a set of 35" tires, but since I only have 5" of lift, I had to do a small amount of fender triming (which is not visible) to get them under it without rubbing.

    In the future I plane on adding a 1" zero rate to the 4" front springs, which are reasonbly new, and a custom made set of 6" steel blocks in the rear, with a set of new OEM (9 pack) rear springs. With the 1" body lift, this should give me a respective (and front to rear level) 6" (or so) of lift. I will post a picture of my rig a little later for you (unless you want to search through my user profile for some old pictures of it).
     
  5. BlueBlazer

    BlueBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    [​IMG]

    On my rig, I used an ORD 4" shackle flip in the rear and Tough Country HD 4" springs in the front. I am pretty happy with the setup. The front springs as far as I know are the same as 1/2 and 3/4 ton apps. The shackle flip is one ton specific.

    I used a Skyjacker dropped pitman arm only in the front.
     
  6. 1-ton

    1-ton 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Try Rock Stomper http://www.rockstomper.com/catalog/pieces/ubolts.htm for U-bolts, and see if they can get you what you want.

    There are a lot of companies that have the stuff for the 14 Bolt FF.

    I used the skyJacker 2" dropped pitman (part # CA50) arm to correct my steering. It is the most effective way to correct your steering while eliminating most bump steer.
     
  7. 0llllll0

    0llllll0 Registered Member

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    Thanks Guys, just the info I was looking for.

    John,
    Nice truck, If you remember some time back I asked if you wanted to sell it... And yes mine is also an ex USAF truck from New Mexico, 34k, 350, 4L80E, 4:10's and NO air. I have installed bucket seats and I'm currently taking apart a loaded 87 surburban for the pwr windows and locks as well as the cruise and A/C.

    Chris,
    I will try to get a few pic's of the lights soon.

    1-TON
    Also nice truck... Thanks for the info on the u-bolts and pitman arm.

    Thanks again.

    Ken
     
  8. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

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    Yeah, I remember you asking about it now. Kinda neat you ended up with a nearly identical truck (even USAF). :cool1: Man, only 34k... now THAT is sweet! :pimp:

    Did the seats come out of the 87 Sub you mentioned? Any mods to do it or did they bolt up? I'm really wanting to add buckets to mine also.
     
  9. Eric M.

    Eric M. 1/2 ton status

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    Looks like you have your spring question answered. For your steering, stay away from a dropped draglink. Go with a dropped steering arm and if necessary, a raised steering block. Use the stock drag link and try to get it level using the arm and block. This will help the most with bump steer.

    I put crossover on one of my 1 tons with a 4" lift, I love it. On the street it steers like a 2wd!

    Crossover or droped arm / raised block, I think either will work for you. But forget the dropped drag link - it keeps the correct angle for the ends but does nothing to correct your steering geometry.



    Good Luck,

    Eric M.
     
  10. 0llllll0

    0llllll0 Registered Member

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    Yes, the seats are from the 87 Burb. The crew cab and suburban outboard seat mounting holes are the same so no mods needed there. The inboard front seat mounts on burbs with bucket seats have brackets welded onto the floor, so I just cut them off with a die grinder and drilled 3 holes in them, bolted it to the bucket seat, bolted the seat in place on the O/B side and marked the 3 holes on the floor with a paint pen. Then I removed the seat and drilled the holes in the floor, bolted the bracket to the floor (I used 3 - 5/16" grade 8"s for ea. brkt) reinstalled the seat and then drilled the holes for the rear inboard's (the seat track sits on the floor but theres no hole) I used 3/8 bolts with a large washer on the back side.

    Hope that helps.

    Ken
     
  11. themaddhatter

    themaddhatter Registered Member

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    Any pics of those lights :D

    Also interested in those :cool1:

    Shane
     

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