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lift/tires and whatnot

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by crithke, Jul 13, 2002.

  1. crithke

    crithke Registered Member

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    I bought my first truck the other day, a '77 k5. i'm pretty excited about the whole thing, and would like to do a 6 inch suspension lift. If anyone could give me some insight as to a good tire size to go along with it, it would be very appreciated.
     
  2. NITRO

    NITRO 1/2 ton status

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    Hey bro, welcome to CK5. first off, get used to what ur truck can do. u have never had a truck bfore and u will hafta get used to it. then once u feel aquainted push it a lil. u'll b surprised. unless u plan on upgrading ur axles, big tires and a huge lift wouldnt b the best of ideas. you'll b snappin things left and right. give us a few more details.

    NITRO
     
  3. crithke

    crithke Registered Member

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    i dunno...i'm not really planning on ugrading my axles too very soon, as working after school and on weekends does have it's limits in terms of how much i get paid (err... i'm poor) I'm not stuck on a 6" lift, so let me rephrase the question:

    What do you guys think would be a good size lift/tire combo (for that matter, lift/tire/shocks combo) on a truck that wouldn't be used for terribly extreme offroading (until i can get some more cash). i'm lookin for somethin that will make the truck look a bit better, while still adding enough to make it so it isn't a pushover as soon as it's tires aren't on pavement anymore...

    btw nitro, your sig is hilarious, if not wrong on so many levels...haha
     
  4. BLUESMAN

    BLUESMAN 1/2 ton status

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    Check your gears and try and decide from there.Alot of late 70's K/5 had the cap-ass 3.08's...which suck with 33" tires!I like the 4" lift, alot less modifications to do.With the 6" lift you are looking at getting longer driveshafts,longer brakelines(even w/ the 4"),dropping the t-case, and an steering arm.You can run up to an 35" tire with an 4" lift(sometimes with a little trimming of the front fenders).You did'nt say what year your truck was, but if it has the rear 10 bolt diff. then I would'nt suggest installing larger than 35" tires on it.Think upgrade now and save some cash!With the 3/4 ton diffs,you usually get a least 3.73 gears. But most of the 3/4 ton stuff is 8 lug wheels.Buy the 3/4 ton diffs now and buy one set of wheels instead of two sets.Need more info???
     
  5. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

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    he said it was a 77..

    Bryan
     
  6. Cmoe

    Cmoe 1/2 ton status

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    I'll start out by saying plan your truck. You need to decide what you would like to use your K-5, Trail, Rocks, street or a compo of things. The big thing is when you start working on it you don't want to buy something and then buy something else due to poor planning. You don't want to get to the point that I've reached of spending over $10K on a '78 K-5. And am not finished yet. I built mine to do light trail and street use. With a '77 you should have a 12 bolt rear and it will work with much off the things that are out there. BUT remember things that are pushed hard will break, maybe not today, but maybe tomarrow... If your going to abuse the k-5 lissen to Bluesman, he built his k-5 for rock and for the abuse of rocks he changed to 14 bolt (great deal) and hand to start over... Take some time and find out what other people have already learned the hard way.

    I like my 4" lift w/ 35x12.5x15, because I don't like throwing out u-joints that acompanies a 6" lift.
     
  7. wheelin72

    wheelin72 Registered Member

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    Im a kid too and understand where you are coming from. You probaly want to do the occasional weekend local wheelin. (Mudding and some pits) Put a 4 inch suspension lift.
    Look for some info on a shackle flip for the rear. and a 4 inch spring in the front. A good tire would be a 33 inch tire. no bigger. You can always upgrade when things brake. When you feel you ready for and axle upgrade you can do that along with other modification that will come with wheelin.
     
  8. NITRO

    NITRO 1/2 ton status

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    Im a kid too!! im puttin in my 14bff and d44 when i decide what lift i want. im debating between 4" and 6". but im gonna b runnin 37"s so ill prolly do the 6". my only factor at this point really is money. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif

    NITRO
     
  9. crithke

    crithke Registered Member

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    money is always the only point.

    but you have a sense of accomplishment knowing that you've worked for a long long time to afford the parts for the blazer...

    ah, screw it, i'd rather have the money right now
     
  10. wheelin72

    wheelin72 Registered Member

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    ya NItro i have the d44 and 14bff on 38.5s and always wanting to upgrade but not everyone lives to wheel. SOme just do it everyonce in a while and dont center thier life aorund it like most CK5ers /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  11. NITRO

    NITRO 1/2 ton status

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    i dont always live to wheel. thats what the 555 blown nitrous truck is for. I like to use mine for the occasional trip to the badlands. i just cant afford to keep payin to upgrade my stock axles. id rather just do it right the first time /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif

    NITRO
     
  12. crithke

    crithke Registered Member

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    well thanks for all the help guys, i think i'm gonna go with a 4" with 35s, but we'll see.

    Anyone here who has ever installed a suspension lift themselves, how long does it take, how hard is it, and can ya do it in your backyard(with minimal equipment)?

    i've got some experience fixing engines and whatnot, but i've never installed a lift. i'd rather do it myself and not take it to a shop
     
  13. TorkDSR

    TorkDSR 1/2 ton status

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    1-2 days, rear shackle flip and front springs are the best way to do lift(imho). the hardest part (for you k5 guys) is dropping the tank to get to the inner shackle bolts. and aftre that the hardest part is beating the front steering arm off the axle to put a raised one in.
    just opinions
    Ryan
     
  14. wheelin72

    wheelin72 Registered Member

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    if you arnt going to re gear look into 33's. I even see people running 33's on a 6 inch and it looks and performs very nice
     
  15. jc71355

    jc71355 1/2 ton status

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    It will perform better with stock gearing but as for looks I hate my 2.5" lift w/33's. Needs 35's but I'm not gonna do that till I get my new lift.
     
  16. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    but as for looks I hate my 2.5" lift w/33's

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I hate mine with 4" suspension and 3" body with 33's on it as well! Need's 35's and as soon as Mickey Thompson decides to lower the price on the Baja Claw Radials- it will have them, until that time it'll look funny!

    Brandy
     
  17. XHitman396

    XHitman396 1/2 ton status

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    im gonna invest in a 4 inch with 33's but im poor (a kid as well). and im gettn the rough country and curious, are the rear springs necessary for the price, i will be doing absolutely no rocks, mainly mud. so think i should jus get some blocks with enough left over for some manual hubs and stuff? thanx, all opinions welcome
     
  18. BLUESMAN

    BLUESMAN 1/2 ton status

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    Do the rear shackle flip and sell the Rough Country blocks.....you will break even and have a better set-up!Be sure and get the extra long shocks for the 6" lift kit.The 4" lift shocks are a little short on the travel!Gee I love my 4" lift with 38" tires!!!33's are for Toyotas!!!LOL
     
  19. trailblazer87

    trailblazer87 1/2 ton status

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    The steering arm comes off a lot easier if you heat it up with a MAPP gas torch first. Heat it good and hot then beat it sideways with a hammer, if your lucky it should almost jump straight upward. To make it easier to get your U-bolts off the axles, beg, borrow, or steal a 3/4" drive ratchet and 15/16" socket, unless you have airtools, wish I had airtools /forums/images/icons/frown.gif
     
  20. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Just cut the damn u bolts.

    As for heating the steering arm, watch it or you'll kill the upper balljoint.
     

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