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Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 85k5blzr, Jun 16, 2001.

  1. 85k5blzr

    85k5blzr 1/2 ton status

    Jan 10, 2001
    Likes Received:
    Houston, Texas
    Ok, i was thinking about getting a tough country 4" lift, but i was also thinking about a 6" for the extra clearance. I was wondering what the difference in price would be between a 4" and 6" lift. I was also wondering what extra things need to be done for the 6" because i know a lot has to be changed for the 6".

    K5 just upgraded to rig status! [​IMG]
  2. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

    Feb 2, 2001
    Likes Received:
    The price between the 6" and 4" is usually time and some bucks. A 4" is usually a put in the lift, steering arm and go... brake lines can be relocated or you can get longer lines. A 2" sway bar drop kit seems ok on my friend's truck... although ORD disconnects are a big plus. Driveshafts should be ok.
    Drop the tcase w/ the factory spacers and all should be good.
    The 6" is guaranteed to need longer driveshafts... (time down and $$$) You have much more of a chance of vibes as well and you may need a CV shaft for the rear (Approx $300-$400)... add a drop pitman arm to the above list of steering parts ($90)... definetly longer SS brake lines ($90)... Definetly the ORD disconnects on the swaybar (my next purchase cause my 2" Sway bar drop isn't cutting it). Also alignment issues come up much more frequently because larger shims are generally used to ease the frt d-shaft angles...

    Overall if I did it again I would look more into a 4" lift personally... I'd go a 4" lift w/ some cutting for clearence and 35's... awsome combo IMO.

    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</A>

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