Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

lincoln lockers?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by mudddog91, Feb 25, 2001.

  1. mudddog91

    mudddog91 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2000
    Posts:
    471
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    north carolina
    Hey guys,i dont have a blazer but i do have a 74 3/4 ton.Im almost done putting everything together and am wondering if my frontend will hold up.I built a healthy 383 stroker for it and am running the sm465/np2o5 setup with 4.10:1 gears in the 14 bolt FF and dana 44 8 lug.Its got a detroit in the rear and i lincoln locked(welded) the front dana 44.Has anyone had experience with a welded diff in the front?Its got lockout hubs so street driving will be tolerable,and its not an everyday driver,plus cant you just unlock 1 hub when the going is easy?
     
  2. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 22, 2001
    Posts:
    556
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NC, USA
    Hey, the fun part of this is you already welded it right, so you can tell us how it works. What size tires? Anything over 35, and good wheelin', you will need to lock both, so the one hub thing doen't really apply, thus you loose the purpose of the welded diff anyway. I know from some experience that if you have any larger than 35's and do some hard wheelin, and didn't put moly shafts in, they will break eventually. I just got my Dana 60 after breakin a 44, which was after the 10 bolt. My knew project has been in my possession for about a year now, and only minor mods, but I have a shop full of heavy parts. This one I intend to do all at once, and right the first time. RIght the first time means nothin less than a 60 up front. Good luck though, and to be completely honest, breakin' stuff on your rig is the best way to learn and learn quick, so have fun.

    Joel

    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  3. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2000
    Posts:
    4,675
    Likes Received:
    26
    Location:
    Ohio
    I think it will mostly depend on what size tires you have and what type of driver you are. If you have modest size tires (36" or smaller) and don't try to blast through obstacles, the 44 can survive. I really don't think a lincoln locker puts any more stress on it than something like a Detroit. For only locking one hub in, this should help turning but be careful if you do get into any type of obstacles. With both hubs locked in the torque is split equally between the two front shafts, with only one hub locked only one shaft is taking all of the torque. I think if you got the one tire which was locked in wedged in a rut or against a rock, it would be pretty vulnerable to breaking.
     
  4. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    1,857
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Long Beach, CA.
    How did you do it? Exactly where did you weld? I am thinking about the same thing as I run 33's and am very light on the throttle. Thanks for the help.
     
  5. mudddog91

    mudddog91 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2000
    Posts:
    471
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    north carolina
    WELL IM RUNNING 38'S,SO.............ALSO IS IT GOING TO BE THE SHAFTS THAT SNAP FIRST OR WILL I HAVE PROBLEMS WITH THE CARRIER OR RING AND PINION?ID LIKE TO KNOW WHICH SPARES I NEED TO TAKE WITH ME!!!!!
     
  6. mudddog91

    mudddog91 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2000
    Posts:
    471
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    north carolina
    TO LINCOLN LOCK YOUR DIFF YOU NEED TO WELD THE SIDE GEARS TO THE SPIDER GEARS AND ALSO WELD THE SIDE GEARS TO THE CARRIER,IF YOU JUST WELD THE GEARS TOGETHER IVE HEARD THAT THEY ARE MORE PRONE TO BREAKAGE.SO YOU SHOULD HAVE 8 WELD POSITIONS ON THE GEARS(4 ON EACH SIDE WHERE THEY MEET) AND 4 POSITIONS ON THE CARRIER(2 ON EACH SIDE WHERE THE SIDE GEARS TOUCH THE CARRIER)
     
  7. SlyDog

    SlyDog 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2000
    Posts:
    3,035
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Scottsdale, Arizona
    Hey man, watch the CAPS [​IMG] hurts thy eyes

    [​IMG]
     
  8. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2000
    Posts:
    4,675
    Likes Received:
    26
    Location:
    Ohio
    Typically either the shafts for the axle u-joints will go first. If a u-joint breaks it usually destroys the yokes on the shafts. I would recommend carrying a complete set of front shafts with the u-joints installed, this saves a lot of time if you have to do a repair on the trail. Another thing that can happen when a u-joint breaks is that it will distort the yokes to the point they will not fit through the hole in the knuckle, meaning that the whole knuckle might have to be disassembled, unless you have a torch to cut the shaft off.
     

Share This Page