Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Line-X and body mount replacement

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Mastiff, Sep 23, 2003.

  1. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2002
    Posts:
    2,755
    Likes Received:
    48
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Is it possible to replace my body mounts without goofing up the Line-X in the bed? It looks like the two rear body mounts mount through the bed with carriage bolts (or similar), which in my case are covered over with Line-X. I'd hate to have to cut it up if I don't have to. At the same time, it looks like you'd have to jack the body WAY up to clear the bolts if they were left in.

    I see no bolts coming through the bed or anyplace else interior to the truck for the other mounts, is that correct? If I'm looking at it right, they all use long bolts screwing up from underneath. Maybe not so tough if the nut side (tack welded?) can be kept where it is?

    I'm kind of clueless about what this job entails. Most of my mounts look pretty good except for one of the rear ones that I can see is starting to crumble.

    Does it prolong their life to soak them down with silicone spray every so often?

    Thanks. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,031
    Likes Received:
    366
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    this is why you tape off body-mount-bolts when you Line-X something. If you really wanna change the mounts, I dont see much of an alternative to cutting the Line-X down to the head of the carriage bolt. I dunno, maybe with a dremel tool you could grind the line-x away down to the bolts head and keep damage outside that area to an absolute minimum... worth a shot i guess. surprised the line-x guys didnt warn ya about the dangers of coating the entire bed including bolt heads...

    j
     
  3. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2001
    Posts:
    2,563
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Angeles, California
    On my 76 the Line-x had to be removed and redone at those rear mounts. The Line=x guys didnt' respray my Line-x, they dabbed it on after i got the new mounts on. It didn't look nearly as good, but it's mainly hidden from view under my repair box so i didn't really care.

    No other way to get to those bolts except thru the top side of the bed AFAIK. It's only in the rear that it comes thru the bed.

    IIRC, silicone dries out rubber and vinyl.
     
  4. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2002
    Posts:
    2,755
    Likes Received:
    48
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    [ QUOTE ]
    this is why you tape off body-mount-bolts when you Line-X something. If you really wanna change the mounts, I dont see much of an alternative to cutting the Line-X down to the head of the carriage bolt. I dunno, maybe with a dremel tool you could grind the line-x away down to the bolts head and keep damage outside that area to an absolute minimum... worth a shot i guess. surprised the line-x guys didnt warn ya about the dangers of coating the entire bed including bolt heads...

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Well, the body mount bolts are pretty inconspicuous. They are darn near flush and painted the same as the bed. I didn't know what they were at the time, figured they were something structural that never needs to be messed with under any normal circumstances. Did you mask all the bolts that hold the body panels together? We masked off the obvious stuff to do with the seats and seatbelts, etc.
     
  5. Mastiff

    Mastiff 1/2 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2002
    Posts:
    2,755
    Likes Received:
    48
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    [ QUOTE ]
    On my 76 the Line-x had to be removed and redone at those rear mounts. The Line=x guys didnt' respray my Line-x, they dabbed it on after i got the new mounts on. It didn't look nearly as good, but it's mainly hidden from view under my repair box so i didn't really care.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Do you think it would have worked better if they had sprayed? Why didn't they?

    [ QUOTE ]
    No other way to get to those bolts except thru the top side of the bed AFAIK. It's only in the rear that it comes thru the bed.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    So I take it that it's really not feasible to do the job without removing those. I didn't figure it was, but theoretically they could be left in if you lifted the body up high enouogh...

    I can't tell how the next two further forward body mounts are attached on the body side. It looks like they should come through. Is there a carriage bolt head just stuffed up in between the bed ridges?

    [ QUOTE ]
    IIRC, silicone dries out rubber and vinyl.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Weird, are you sure? I've read in several places recommendations to spray down weather stripping with silicone spray to keep it flexible.
     
  6. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

    Joined:
    May 19, 2001
    Posts:
    45,031
    Likes Received:
    366
    Location:
    Vancouver, WA, USA
    [ QUOTE ]
    Did you mask all the bolts that hold the body panels together?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
    bolts

    yeah no liner on my bolt heads. Its all good though, there was definitely a time when I had no idea what those bolts were really for either.

    I still think a lot of patients and a dremel would work.

    j
     
  7. Skigirl

    Skigirl 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2001
    Posts:
    2,563
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Los Angeles, California
    Yea, I think it might have looked better if they sprayed, but that probably would have meant spraying quite a bit to feather it out. I had it done 3/16" thick and they probably would've charged me a lot. i had it done in gray so they would have had to redo the UV coat too.

    I dunno whether it could be lifted up or not to remove /install those rear mounts.

    The next two mounts towards the front don't go thru on mine. They're close to the b pillar. Haven't looked to see how exactly it mounts - I'm sure one of ther guys can answer that for you.

    Re; the silicone. I could be mistaken, but I base that opinion on the notion that stuff like Armorall makes rubber and vinyl dry out and I thought it's main ingredient was a silicone type chemical. Could be wrong tho.

    Mostly rubber dries up and cracks with heat and sun, salt, etc.. It should take a while for new mounts to mess up as long as you keep it cleaned up of any road salt. Don't think you need to put anything else on the mounts.
     
  8. bpiccioni

    bpiccioni 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2002
    Posts:
    187
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Eugene, OR
    [ QUOTE ]

    Weird, are you sure? I've read in several places recommendations to spray down weather stripping with silicone spray to keep it flexible.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    The lube shops up in Anchorage, AK used to put silicone spray on CV boots to keep them supple and pliant through the winter, so I would agree that silicone cant possibly be harmful to rubber /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     

Share This Page