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Lockers....

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 90blzr, Aug 14, 2001.

  1. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Rebuilding D60 and 14bff. I dont "plan on" any hard-core wheelin', and will be driving my Blazer on the street a majority of the time as it is a daily. While everything is apart, I'm debating on installing some type of locker in the rear or both front and rear. I here alot of people talking about Detroit for the rear, which I am leaning towards. Which ones have you had good luck with and which ones should I stay away from? Any comments or suggestions are greatly appreciated. Oh and what kind of prices should I be expecting to pay. Thanks guys/gals!

    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by 90blzr on 08/14/01 05:59 AM.</FONT></P>
     
  2. white_knight

    white_knight 1/2 ton status

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    Detroit is great. I;ve got one in the front but don't drive it on pavement anymore

    I've got a powerlok for the rear. It's a good posi that locks up very nicely. This could be an option for your front.

    Then again, you've got the ARB - on the pricey side

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.whiteknight.scriptmania.com/>http://www.whiteknight.scriptma
    nia.com
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  3. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    If you dont plan on wheelin hard why do you want to get a locker? You'd be better off getting a posi unit.

    Does anyone have a grinding disk I can borrow?[​IMG]3/4 in progress[​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</a>
     
  4. K5Junkie

    K5Junkie 1/2 ton status

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    I have a detroit in the rear and a Aurburn in the front. Whenever i step up to 1 ton axles i will go with both detroits front and rear. I drive it everyday and have no problems or complaints about having the locker in the rear. But i do complain about having the Aurburn up front when i go mud riding the few times that i get offroad. Just my opinion though.



    Check out my pictures:
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  5. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not set on a detroit, but that seems to be pretty much the only one I hear people going with whether they drive it on the street or not and 90% seem to really like it. This is why I am asking for advice. I'm just getting into all of this and I do not know what all is out there.
     
  6. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Why one ton if no hard core?

    Jim '80 GMC & '73 Blazer
    Tread Lightly!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com>www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  7. californiak5

    californiak5 1/2 ton status

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    Why not?

    [​IMG] <font color=green>Born to Drive My K5</font color=green> [​IMG]
     
  8. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Definately go with a Detroit in the rear... For light duty wheelin go with a Power-Lok in the front. My borther has a True Trac, but we are not happy with it. It is unlocked mroe than it is locked, so we are goign to swap it out for something different..(probably a mini spool)

    Mike

    <font color=green>"It's like a sore dick deal, You cant beat it!"</font color=green>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>www.geocities.com/emmettology101</a>
     
  9. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, why go through the hassle and expense of a D60/14FF swap if the majority of your driving is on-road and the wheeling you'll do won't be hardcore? On that same note, why even bother with a front locker? I'm not trying to be an a$$ or anything, but it just doesn't seem worth the money if you're not gonna use the truck hard.

    With that said, I'd have to say go with the Detroit out back if you really want a locker/LSD. Not like you have many choices for it...

    It's always darkest just before it goes pitch-black...
    [​IMG] <font color=green>Semper Maintenance!<font color=black>
     
  10. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Well, I can't arguee with that. It just seems odd the way people are rushing to the one ton stuff, yet don't tow a big trailler, go off road, or run large tires and I'm not just talking about on this board. I'm not trying to bash anyone, just wondering. There are guys out there running 36"-38" tires and wheeling hard with little or no breakage. There is another post right now that got on body damage "Decsitions" This is kind of the same thing, trying to keep a truck built at its limits together. That said, I am considering beefing the axles on my '73. Also, I can understand the desire to get rid of that rear 10B. Mostly I was just wondering why he wanted to lock &amp; 1 ton a truck that wont get used.

    Jim '80 GMC & '73 Blazer
    Tread Lightly!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com>www.gmck5.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  11. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    A couple of points -

    1. I have the D60 and 14 FF and generally do NOT hardcore wheel my truck. Why did I go this route if, as said below, I don't hardcore wheel? Because it is a comfort to know when I do wheel (in deep SAND) more than likely NOTHING will ever break. I have broken two 12 bolts over the years on the street. Some of us just like to build them better than the factory did.

    2. Have a Detroit front and rear. The rear is not a problem on the street at all. Once you drive it a couple of weeks, you don't even notice it back there. And again, you KNOW you have the traction there. I used to have an Auburn in my 12 bolt and could easily defeat it with my motor.............and that in the sand sucked. The Detroit up front is obviously not a factor on road for me, and does a great job in the sand. Again, didn't want to mess with an expensive ARB that I read more and more about problems with.

    We all have visions and reasons for our type of build-up, or for that matter, NOT modifying our trucks.

    <font color=blue>'79 ONE TON TPI K5 - See it at---&gt;<a target="_blank" href=http://www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com>www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  12. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, well here we go. I had a feeling I was going to get some of these responses. Not that I should need to justify it, but what the hell.

    #1- I tow a car tandem axle car trailer on occasion.

    #2- Too many breakage strories of 10 bolts. I dont like replacing parts over and over....

    #3-I've thought about this for a long time, and was going to go with the 14b and D44. I even had them ready to go on, but them I got to thinking. Why put something in that has a chance on breaking, well because I cant afford the D60. So where I am at now, I have a D60 and I would be willing to bet money that I got my complete D60 and 14bff for less than you could pick up a 3/4 ton set from a juckyard[​IMG] How's that for why?[​IMG]

    #3- I plan on running 38"+ tires. I dont like wondering if something is going to break right after I put money into it. I figure there is some pretty good insurance in a 14bff and D60.

    #4- I like the idea of doing things right the first time (to an extent and money providing), less hassle, less money in the long run...

    #5- I said I dont "plan" on doing anything hard-core. BUT you never know, and it will be nice to know I am already set up and not have to redo the axle swap again, dont you think?

    #6- As was stated before.....WHY THE HELL NOT?!?[​IMG] Isnt that what all the cool people are running?![​IMG][​IMG]

    I'm not trying to be rude and dont want to cause an arguement, its all in fun, but I have my reasons, and there are alot more reasons to run the 1 ton gear than not. Any more advice on lockers? [​IMG]
     
  13. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Exactly my thinking on the 1 ton stuff!! [​IMG] Thank you!
     
  14. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    I am going the 1 ton route. Our Jimmy is a daily driver, and will be running 36-37" tires.I think it is a well proven fact that 10 &amp; 12B will break, and Murphy says it won't be at any conveniet time. My thoughts were, "do it right once", I hate paying for stuff more than once, besides the inconvience it creates. I will run a Detroit in the rear, and run the front open until some of the other mods are finished.

    Derf00

    "A WISE MONKEY NEVER MONKEYS WITH ANOTHER MONKEY'S MONKEY."
     
  15. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    90-You brought up some great points. Like I said I wasn't trying to bash, just wondering. If I was going to be towing a trailer that big I would go for some type of FF (14B, D60, D70, Eaton..) too. As far as lockers, you don't have much choice in a FF14B, either factory Gov-Lock or Detroit. You need the open cairrer to use the Detroit so that narrows it even more. In the front if you are regearing now would be the time to do it. If not I would just leave it open. If you do lock it I would go with the Detroit for the same reason you're doing the one ton upgrade: its a proven performer, strong and simple.
    " Isnt that what all the cool people are running?! " I like that. Once again, didn't mean to offend but it really does help if you give some background info when you ask a question that will have opinionated answers..


    Jim '80 GMC & '73 Blazer
    Tread Lightly!
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  16. Boss

    Boss 1/2 ton status Author

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    Detroit.

    89' 1 TON of FUN K5
     
  17. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    You don't need to justify, man. It's your truck, it's your money. Do with it as YOU wish!
    I was just curious, and #2 and the second #3 ([​IMG]!) explain it all for me. I like #6 though... we're all a bunch of conformists!

    It's always darkest just before it goes pitch-black...
    [​IMG] <font color=green>Semper Maintenance!<font color=black>
     
  18. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

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  19. rocko

    rocko 1/2 ton status

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    What is the deal with a Gov-loc anyway? What is it supposed to do.. I'm told to ditch the one I'm getting in my 14 bolt rear..
    Any helpful insight would be greatly appreciated..


    Round Rock, Texas I haven't failed, I've found 10,000 ways that don't work. <a target="_blank" href=http://www.rocko.rockcrawler.com>www.rocko.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  20. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    I'm just saying, that I hear all the time on this forum about people breaking 10 bolts left and right with sometimes 33's 35's and so on. With 38's or 39's its just going to put that much more strain on the 10 bolts. With the 1 ton axles, I am a little less worried about breaking something. I know it happens, but not nearly as much as with a stock 10 bolt. And yes I know there are some that run 44's with 10 bolts no prob[​IMG], but with my luck you would be swithching to the 1 ton axles too...........like was said before, do it right do it once (hopefully[​IMG])
     

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