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Look what I found yesterday.......tons of rust

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by daleearnhardt01, Apr 17, 2003.

  1. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    While vacuumin the other day a piece the piece of carpet where the passenger side belt mounts moved a bit and I saw light. So needless to say I tore the whole front carpet out yesterday to investigate. I found quite a bit of rust and now Im not sure what to do. I have no fab skills of any kind. My boss might help me but I doubt it. What should I do? Anybody in Virginia want to make some money? This has got me down but I do know one thing I dont want to sell it. Heres a link to my webshots with pics I took Rust Pics /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  2. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    Mine was worse than yours.

    My recommendation:

    GO to www.por15.com

    Buy POR-patch. Use it to fill in the holes. IF you have large gaping holes (bigger than a fingernail I would say) than they also sell some cloth like patch, but I do no have personal experience with that specific product.

    Thenbuy some POR-15 paint and do the entire floorboards. The Starter Kit is a good buy, but you will need extra paint.

    -- Mike
     
  3. Sidepipes

    Sidepipes 1/2 ton status

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    I just fixed mine but it was much worse.

    I welded in 16 gauge sheet metal..... sometimes double layers. IF you have access to a mig/fluxcore welder and angle grinder, I 'd suggest you can probably do it yourself. Wirefed welding is a really easy, get some sheet metal and some cut off wheels and start cutting pieces and welding them in. Plug weld the seat belt mounting bolts into the new steel and you are ready to go!

    I'd much prefer a steel repair than a fiberglass repair especially if you are planning on going offroad.

    Mine took 22 hours to do.... in a span of 48 hours.... lots of work and I was really tired but its a daily driver so it needed to be done quick. I also have a kid so it had to be done right! If you want I can send you some pics of mid before and after.
     
  4. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

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    yea it seems all the k5s seem to get some nasty rust in the tricky to fix parts like the corners of the rear floor bourds were the floor goes up. my k5s are to gone to be worth fixing..that kinda turned me away form them..now that i know what i know i wont buy another one inless the rust is very minumal. pickups are a lot easier to fix that way..
     
  5. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Do you have a collage in your area that teaches autobody ??? Those are good places to get body work done sence they don't charge anything for labor. Bad thing is they'll have it for quite awhile, they do tend too take thier time.
     
  6. TXsizeK5

    TXsizeK5 1/2 ton status

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    Part your truck out and sell me the front clip. lol
    Naw thats not bad at all, i had holes and cracks every which way. I got it all fixed up. Just need some 18gauge steel, some 28gauge galvanized steel, shredded fiberglass, drill, rivet gun. And bang out all the rust and coat with por15 or naval jelly , then cut the metal to fit, drill holes in floor and metal and rivet it in. then pack the fiberglass over it, when it dries bedline the floor. Thats what i did and its great~!
     
  7. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    i got a buddy down here by chesterfield towne center that will weld new pans or just new metal in for you...ill check with him to see how much hell charge...and if thats too much i can probably take it to my dads shop and do it myself there

    Later
     
  8. awagliar

    awagliar Registered Member

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    I've seen worse. Hell, I've *owned* worse. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

    If you can wait until August, I know a guy in Christiansburg that could fix that right up.
     
  9. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Well my boss looked at it and said we could fix it but he only wants to deal with patchin up the big holes. I mean I dont know if I should get new floorpans or just patch up everything. He said take to a bodyshop if I want new floorpans but I really dont want to have to go that route.
     
  10. BRN78BLAZER

    BRN78BLAZER 1/2 ton status

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    That floor still has a lot of life in it. I would suggest just patching it. And protect it with undercoating and rust preventative primer. Scince your not in the salt belt you'll only need to protect it once and it should be fine, inless you do mudding, that will cause rust in the most ridiculous places.
     
  11. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Ok so most of yall say I should just patch it. I think the plan is to cut all the major rust out and put new metal in. As for the small cracks and small rust holes how should I approach those? As for the places that have surface rust would I just use POR15 on it? I mean after the thing gets repaired I suppose I would POR15 the whole floor.
     
  12. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Can someone look at the pics and tell me what should I do about the small rust holes? I was looking at that POR15 patch stuff and their fiberglass sheeting. Heres the plan so far I guess, make adjustments if needed.
    1) Cut out rust and Weld in new metal where the seat belt bolts in
    2) Use a wire wheel to get rid of the small suface rust areas
    3) Cut out rust in foot wells and weld new metal in
    4) POR15 the floor - How much POR15 do I need to do the whole truck floor? What should I buy from their site?
     
  13. por15-texas

    por15-texas Registered Member

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    ==
    1) Cut out rust and Weld in new metal where the seat belt bolts in
    ==

    Use POR-15's epoxy putty around the seams to seal and weather proof the areas.

    ====
    4) POR15 the floor - How much POR15 do I need to do the whole truck floor? What should I buy from their site?
    ---
    If you want everything in ONE kit there is a FLoor Pan truck kit that has it all. But if you think you can get by with a litle less POR-15 and do the rest with new metal do so as it's stonger. Seal any seams with Epoxy Putty. It drys Rock hard and can be files and ground down to look nice and smooth. Hides seams very well. To fill smal holes no larger then a 1/2 dollar down to a hole the size of a pencil use the POWER MESH this is the fiber glass matting. You cut the mesh to size and 1" over lap. Paint the metal with a light coat of POR-15 and SOAK the MESH in POR-15. Lay the MESH over the hole. It will dry to a very hard surface. It can then be sanded and cleaned up around the edges once dry. use masking tape and cardboard under the hole to provide support till the mesh drys so there is no sagging. Once dry you can remove the cardboard. Then once you have all the holes fixed paint the whole floorboard with POR-15. I'd suggest SILVER if you have small holes and pits you want to clean up. The SILVER has metal flakes embedded to help fill the small imperfections. you can then topcaot with any paint you wish. The POR-15 will need to be *scuffed* for any paint to stick that isn't a POR-15 toacoat like CHASSICCOTE as POR-15 drys VERY smooth and normal paints have a hard time sticking to it.

    Hope this helps.
     
  14. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    looks like my project truck!
    pics
     
  15. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    Well I was relieved when I pulled the rear carpet up. Perfect floor there /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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