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Looking for a rearend...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by UseYourBlinker, Feb 5, 2001.

  1. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    I found out today that my transfer case O.K. and the rearend crapped out. The ring and pinion got chewed up. What should I do? fix the stock 10 bolt, or go to a 12 or 14 bolt? I only have a 2.5 inch lift with 33's. I was running 3.08 gears, and stock hubs up front. What should I do? I use the Blazer as a dailey driver. What kind of gear's should I upgrade too? I don't climb rocks, just a little mud and carrying camping gear... Thanks

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  2. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    i would try to find a good used 12 or 14 bolt and just swap them out but thats just my .02

    s.smith 77blazer lookin 4 mud [​IMG]
     
  3. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Yeah, but what kinda gears? Also how much would a swap like this cost?

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  4. mudhog

    mudhog THEGAME Staff Member Super Moderator

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    first if you do this your self it will only cost you the price of the rearend second if you change to something besides 3.08's you will need new gears in the front if you want new gears i would say 3.73's or 4.10's with 33in tires

    s.smith 77blazer lookin 4 mud [​IMG]
     
  5. KENBARBOUR

    KENBARBOUR Registered Member

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    Dont waste your time on a 10 bolt or even a 12 bolt unless you want to do it again the right way. Go with a 14 bolt. If you want to keep your rims and keep it six lug go with a semifloating 14 bolt. I think they came in late eighties 3/4 tons and heavy duty half tons like the 454ss. Unless you want to regear your frontend try to find one that matches it. If your up for gearing both axles 3.73 or even 4.10 will work good. If you have overdrive go with the 4.10's.
     
  6. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    I know how you feel... axles are giving me fits as well. First I would look at how much your truck does offroad. Mine is mainly weak stuff compared to the mud pits and rock climbs. That and it is my daily driver. If you arfe hard core on the trails... a 14 is the only way to go. FF's are plentiful. SF's are tough to find, but either one is huge and very very heavy! This is why I've leaned away from them. 12 bolts are pretty good moderate choice... see the posts from a few days ago on beefing one up. In any means wether 10 or 12 bolt good axle shafts and new caps as well as one of those reinforcining diff covers should help a bunch. Swapping axles is pretty easy, but recommned a few friends to help, a torch and air tools help on rusty fastners. 3.73's will work great with 33" tires, or for more crawling ability could even go 4.10's.


    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
     
  7. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    How about this: keep your 33's and get 8 lug 15 inch rims and then buy a 14FF with 3.73 gears from me? All you have to do then is locate or change the front gears. Simple, huh? Interested, send me a private.
     
  8. EDdaTREE

    EDdaTREE 1/2 ton status

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    First...fill out your profile so we know what year truck and what kinda tranny we're talking about. Second, if we're talking 10-bolt its probably 81 or newer, so I would toss in a 12 bolt and be done.

    "I'm not stuck...I'm just being as ONE with nature"
     
  9. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Go with whatever is most plentiful in your area. For what your doing per your post, fixing the 10 bolt with new gears will be fine. Putting in a 14 bolt for occasional mudding is like going to a knife fight in a tank. I mean, you definately wont be getting hurt, but its a little over kill. Plus if plan on keeping the 33's you'll be loosing a little ground clearnce. The pumkin on the 14 sticks down further than the 10 bolt. But you'll be able to go bigger later if you want. But the 14 botl parts are more expensive too. Its all in what you plan on doing. I like the idea of the 12 bolt.

    But if youy wanna keep the 10 bolt you have and have it re-geared, your gonna spend more money having those gears set correctly than it would cost you to just swap the whole rear end out with one that is in good shap. So find yourself a 12 bolt that has good guts, go with the 3.73's since your going to be daily driving it. Then worry about the front later.
    But if you have overdrive go ahead and get the 4.10's if you wan a liitle more umff.
    Theres my nickle, dont spend it all in one place.

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90 Jimi,350/700R4/241/10bolts/4.10's/33's/4"
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     
  10. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    Thanks for the info, I'll fill out my profile when I get home from school....Talk to you guy's later...

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  11. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    I would either re-do the 10bolt or swap to a 12 bolt. Both are usually plentiful.... Stay away from the 14 bolt unless you plan on moving up to 35' or 38's in the future.... Even if you do go up to 35's or 38's in the future and you only do mild wheeling, the 10 and 12 bolt will still do you just fine.

    Too many people are too eager to jump on the " just get a 14 bolt" bandwagon!

    As for gears, I would go with what ftn96 said, go with 3.73's unless you have a 305, then go 4.10's.. But only get 4.10's if you have overdrive.

    HTH

    Mike [​IMG]
    See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; <A target="_blank" HREF=http://emmett.coloradok5.com>http://emmett.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  12. UseYourBlinker

    UseYourBlinker 1 ton status

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    The tranny is stock. It's automatic with overdrive. I should go for 3.73's right? for an 84K5

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  13. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Hey Mike, thats just like the guys that say "I do just fine without a locker" Then they finally get a locker and can't believe the difference. The reason a lot of us say just get a 14 is economic as well as strength, it will almost always be more cost effective to swap a 14 in as soon as the first 10 or 12 dies. They usually have the gears you want right away and it doesn't take all sorts of expensive band aid mods to make them live. A bonus is bigger brakes. Again without any aftermarket help. The best part is the peace of mind! They are damn hard to break.
    No offense dude, but you should try it yourself! [​IMG] As for ground clearance, if all somone does is light mellow wheeling its not an issue. I do wheel mine hard, and I can count on one hand the number of times I have smacked the diff. The part I like is that the 14 will take that abuse and just shrug it off.
    Don't just dismiss the 14 bolt because you don't wheel hard or run 44's.

    Rene

    [​IMG]
     
  14. ftn96

    ftn96 1/2 ton status

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    Blink, those 3.73's will be good. Less you go over 33" tires, then you'd only be using the overdrive on the interstate.

    Before a squable breaks. If you can get a 14 bolt for cheap and get it at the time you need it, then do it. If you have the money to get wheels to go with it too. If not, just get what you can find if you cant handle much down time. I would look before you jump and rebuild the 10, but its all about the money, the time, and the availability. The rest is up to you. Basically, dont loose no sleep if you cant find a 14, then look for a 12, still to no avail, dont loose sleep, do the 10. hell its 6 one way, half a dozen the other. You have to take the facts and due the math yourself.

    Will work for beer, parts and tools.
    90 Jimi,350/700R4/241/10bolts/4.10's/33's/4"
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com>http://www.nashvillek5.freeservers.com</A>
     

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