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looking to buy a k5...need advice.

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by leeinmemphis, May 13, 2003.

  1. leeinmemphis

    leeinmemphis Newbie

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    Hey guys,

    I am looking to possibly get a k5 blazer 4x4 for weekend transportation and hunting/fishing. I have a company vehicle that I can drive during the week so my blazer will primarily be a weekend/evening vehicle. I have a farm that I do alot of work on during the weekends. I was wondering if you guys could give me a little advice on what to look for when purchasing a k5? What was the last year of the carburated engine? I am not experienced with computers and fuel injection and would like to stay away from that if it is possible. Also are there any problem areas that need to be addressed(rust, weak spots, etc)? I am in need of a blazer that will end up with 35" tires and a 350 motor. I need the 35's for ground clearance on the farms we work on and hunt and the 350 will help out when towing four wheelers and my john boat....although I'm sure I'll end up needing gears before it is all said and done. Any information/advice is greatly appreciated.


    -lee-
     
  2. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    I think 1987 was the 1st year of FI. As far as weak spots go, if you get a newer K5 that has a 10b rear axle, thats a weak spot. Swapping in a semi-floating 14bolt would be a cheap upgrade, and would keep both your axles 6-lug. I don't have rust issues on my rig, but rocker panels seem to be the most rust-prone spot on a k5. Not sure what else to tell ya, most of it is personal preference (ie if you want a full convertable rig, you'll want that 1st gen k5... if u want a half cab its 2nd gen u need). Shouldnt be a problem finding a k5 with a 350 in it, lots of em had it. Avoid the 305 if ya can, its one of those mpg-compromises that didnt work.

    j
     
  3. bryguy00b

    bryguy00b 3/4 ton status

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    k5's are cheap to lift so dont worry there...body wise..look it up and down every which way k5's are prone to rust just about everywear!! but mainly the rear tailgate area, and floor/supports/inner fender weels..that type of stuff.. if you get a newer blazer like 87- up i THINK..it will have a 350 right of the bat.
     
  4. MousePowrd

    MousePowrd 1/2 ton status

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    Tailgates like to rust, so be sure to open it on any truck you look at. The rear window motor likes to die, so make sure that works.
    87-91 were f.i., 86 and before are all carbureted. Get a truck with an overdrive tranny, they make running the highway much better, especially with deep gears.
     
  5. TNS10HYBRID

    TNS10HYBRID Registered Member

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    Maybe you could not start your post off like "Hey Guys!" /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
     
  6. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Maybe you could not start your post off like "Hey Guys!" /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    <font color="green"> Whoa dude, did someone urinate in your Count Chocula or what? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif </font>
     
  7. bad andy

    bad andy 1/2 ton status

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    also don't forget to look for frame cracks around the steering box, k5's are notorious for that
     
  8. DieselFreak

    DieselFreak Registered Member

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    not to forget all the usual thing, check engine oil so it isn't grey or black, transmission oil is red and clear, coolant isn't too dirty etc etc etc
     
  9. jjlaughner

    jjlaughner 3/4 ton status

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    look behind the seats where the seat belts mount at the bottom, drop the tailgate and look under the carpet in the back along the back, crawl under it (witha long screw driver) and poke at the body mounts and floor /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif (if the owner will let ya) /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif
    Check the bottoms of the doors and the inner fenders in the front

    See here

    Also look here for the extreme in Indiana /Ohio rust problems, but you will get the idea where to look
     
  10. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Check here for year to year differences and standard/optional equipment. Don't shy away from FI cause you don't know about it. It is a pretty simple system on 87-91 K5's.

    -Brian
     
  11. DieselFreak

    DieselFreak Registered Member

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    oh my..those metal-eaters must have been very hungry
     
  12. leeinmemphis

    leeinmemphis Newbie

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    thanks for the information. I'm going to try to look at a few in my area this weekend and see if I can find one that looks ok. Thanks again.


    -lee-
     
  13. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    If you want a carbed Blazer to stay from computers and stuff. The older it is the better. If you want to keep it simple stay away from anything with a 02 sensor and electronic carb. They can give more fits than FI.
    I would not worry about the 10 bolt axles. they work Ok with 35" tires and will be fine for the things you want to use it for.. But you may need to re gear. A lot of them were 3.08s. 3.73 or 4.10 would be better with the bigger tires.
    Dont rule out a FId Blazer.
    Acually I perfer FI over carb for its better driveability and better fuel milage. As said in above post it is really not that hard to work on. But you should have a scanner and a manual. It makes things a lot seaier because the computer will usually tell you what is wrong. The TBI is very dependable. And will run great at extreeme angles. Also most all the later model Blazers came with 3.73 or 4.10 Diffs.
    If you do look into a later model the 88s and up have stronger trannys than the eariler 700r4s.
     

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