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Lubing advance wights on HEI

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by TopOff, Sep 27, 2002.

  1. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    OK, I am getting sick of my advance weights always sticking.

    I thought I simply had to redo my springs...
    But checking my mechanical advance, they are only advancing 12 degrees at 2800 RPMS!

    I thought I had 14 initial + 22 mechanical + 12 vacuum = 48 total

    I have 16 + 12 + 12 = 40 total (at 2800 rpms) UGH!

    NOW I UNDERSTAND why I get hesitation when I first hit the peddle. If I baby it a little on the pedal, it goes OK.

    I haven't taken the cap off to check yet, but I presume my weights are all gummed up again.

    Last time I used some lithium grease, SOOO....

    What should I use to lube the weights?

    TIA
     
  2. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    I use dialectric grease, basically silicone lube. Seems to hold up for quite awhile, but it does collect dust.....
     
  3. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    I was thinking of using this, but the local shops want ~$2.00 for a little tiny disposable tube for it.

    Maybe I can find it at my local RS?
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    The advance runs on a shaft down the middle of the drive shaft. Pull the distributor out after marking where the rotor is pointed and the angle the housing is at. THe drive gear has a roll pin in it. Drive it out after putting an index mark to the shaft the gear attaches to. Remove the button. Remove the two springs that will be exposed. Remove the two weights. You should now be able to slide the shaft out. it's going to be all coked up from oil fumes. Clean it with some brake or carb cleaner. Just try to avoid getting any on the pickup and module.
    Assmebly is reverse. Lithium grease or di electric.
     
  5. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Grim,

    I don't have a problem with the shaft. I had already taken the distributor shaft out, cleaned, new bushing, and lubed (clean motor oil). The weights just seem to get all cruddy and stick more often when I use grease. Maybe I should just Silicone spray them????
    Anyone?
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Might be too heavy of a grease your using. I used a thin white lythium and have not had any problems. There is a high temp grease for use on the brakes that might also be a good solution. The other thing might be to use some graphite powder.
     
  7. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    I thought it might be too heavy. That's why I am asking... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    I seem to always pull apart stock ones and found they didn't use anything. But the weights had all but worn through.

    Perhaps WD-40???!?!?!?

    I have some graphite powder.. but isn't grpahite the wrong thing to put in a distributor cap (arcing)?
     
  8. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    You might be right about the graphite.
    WD40 evaporates pretty quick.
     
  9. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the info and help Grim.

    Going camping at Loon Lake again.. Woohoo!!! Taking our fishing poles this time.

    Thanks to you I did go ahead and take it apart. I didn't understand why you told me to take the shaft out until I realized I was going to be able to free up the weights by spraying Brake Cleaner on them.
    I did take it all apart, and where the weights "ride" on the shaft is where it all rusted up. I thought it would rust and freeze up from the top piece and the moving piece.
    To clarify (hopefully), the piece that moves, sits on the shaft. Where it sits on the shaft is where it froze.

    So thanks again for the info. Aparently I didn't put any lube on this area, and of course, it rusted there again.

    So I am trying the lithium grease again.

    I put it all back together but now I am too far advanced (22 initial) /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif

    It's too late to pull it out and reset it one tooth back. So I will drive it and see how it goes.

    I also put both Blue (heavy) springs on and made the vacuum canister require more vacuum to advance the ignition. I hope this helps my part-throttle ping.

    I actually think I should keep the blue and silver, and simply adjusted my vacuum.

    Some day, I might actually set this up right. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

    TopOff
     
  10. kennyw

    kennyw N9PHW Premium Member

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    Dont use WD40. After it evaporates it leaves a gummy film that will make things worse.
     
  11. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    I noticed your running TBI. Are you running a EGR? If it's a stock computer it would be expecting the EGR at part throttle and it could be part of your ping issue if the EGR was not there.
     
  12. BigOrange90Jimmy

    BigOrange90Jimmy 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Grim, he's got an awesome setup from what he's telling me. I'm talking probably in the thousands CFM 4-barrel injection. Sounds expensive.
     
  13. TopOff

    TopOff 1/2 ton status

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    Computer is programmed for no EGR.

    Thanks for the Info though.

    I will be changing the cam to a Crane 260, as a few of my lifters are bad. Now that I don't have to pass smog anymore, I can run almost any cam. WHOOOPEE!!!

    I just have to have the chipped re-programmed. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif

    I will be sure to mention that I am NOT running EGR (just in case).
     

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