Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

M1008 as a trail rig

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by FL84K5, Aug 10, 2002.

  1. FL84K5

    FL84K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2001
    Posts:
    936
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sarasota, FL
    How are M1008 CUCVs as trail rigs? Not taking about rock crawling, but for trail use. Im toying with the idea of picking up one of them cheap, and using the Blazer as my daily driver.
     
  2. laketex

    laketex 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    6,220
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    North Texas
    They've got all the right hardware under them, wheelbase is a little long, and overhang's a bitch. I guess if you swapped in a 350 and bobbed the rear, they'd do pretty good. BadDog used to just wheel his on trails before he buggied it!
     
  3. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    7,385
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Atlanta
    Flat bed it and loose the over hang. 6 ich lift, one inch Zero rates move the front axle forward 1 inch (will still work without cross over), 1 inch body lift and Lots of Sawzall work on the front fenders and you up to 38's easy. If you want to get the wheel base down then shorten the frame or swap the running gear to a Blazer frame.
    If the Deisel runs I would stay with it. Nice low torque and it will run on any camber.
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Yep, I ran one that worked great, just a little long. Here is where I was when I liked it best, but before the current buggy project.

    Ditch the 6.2 for a TBI 350. Add 4" lift springs in the front, relocated the back hangers on the rear spring and used a Springer setup on the rear for 4". Also relocated the shocks and used 5012s. Move front axle forward 2", add front Lock-Rite, cross-over steering, and hydro assist (Matt at West Texas Offroad rules!). Add a set of 42" TSLs. Cut the @#% out of the front fenders (or remove them like I did) and cut the core support to clear the tires. Remove the truck bed, build a flat bed or whatever you want. Bob the rear of the frame at the rear springs. This provides a pretty good approach and departure angle.

    I was very pleased at the capability of this setup. Only problem was break-over due to long span between the tires with very little lift. On the upside, it would remain fairly stable at some crazy angles due to low lift, little weight up high, lots of weight down low (much of it unsprung). I didn’t run this very long before going further (buggy, shorter wheel base, etc.) Matt (norulz) has been running a very similar setup based on a F350 for several years and has taken it much, MUCH further than I did at that stage.
     

Share This Page