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making a 6" work

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by muddysub, Jun 28, 2002.

  1. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    making a 6\" work

    what will i have to do as far as drivelines go to my suburban to make a 6" lift work w/o vibes. shims, t-case lowering, shaft lengthening... what needs to be done? i have a 10 bolt front 14 bolt SF rear and an np241. will the extra length of my suburban make the rear shaft act funny or better? my front shaft is the same length as a K5's right?

    oh and brake lines, my fronts are 8"ers so i'm ok there but what about the rear, i have skyjacker SS braided lines up front do they make a line for the rear?
     
  2. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    Others may tell you differently, but my experience with '81&up subs and longbeds with between 4''-6'' lift has shown that the only driveline modification that you will need is to add a 1'' front driveshaft spacer ($52.95 from 4WPW PN#04310). What are you doing besides the shackle flip in the rear? You might have to shim your pinion back down some due to the pinion angle change from the shackle flip and your longer wheelbase.
     
  3. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    i'm doing a 4" flip and 2" blocks probably.
     
  4. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    I recently did a shackle flip on a longbed and we didn't lower the t-case or adjust the pinion angle and it doesn't vibrate even at highway speeds.
     
  5. 85chevy4x4

    85chevy4x4 Registered Member

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    I installed a trailmaster 6" lift on my 85 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 longbed. I'm running 35" pro comp mud terrains. I didn't lower the transfer case or lengthen the rear driveshaft. It doesn't vibrate or make any noises at all. I'm not running a front driveshaft so I couldn't tell you about that. For my brakelines, I cut the original brackets and stretched them as far as I could. It works fine for now but I will be buying extended brake lines. You will have to get a drop steering arm. Mine was a 4" and it worked fine. You'll need to do something about the swaybar. You can lower it or use the stock mount. I used the stock mount for mine.
     
  6. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    85chevy4x4... i've had a 4" lift on my suburban for about a year so i have the steering arm.

    got one more question, will i need a dropped drag link? oh and still need to know about the rear brake line.
     
  7. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    Oh yeah, I also had to buy a 2'' dropped pitman arm to go along with my 4'' raised steering arm. When I was driving with just the 4'' arm, my turning radius was unbelievably large. You can adjust the draglink to make it get equal steering left to right, but you will lose a little in each direction (at least I did untill I installed the pitman arm.)
     
  8. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    i can't afford to lose more turning radius. so i guess i'll get a draglink. how much do they cost?
     
  9. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    Well I actually replaced the pitman arm, not the draglink. I bought it used from Chris Hill ( www.hill4wheel.com ) for $40, but a new one is about $80. I prefer the pitman arm over the draglink because with a dropped draglink, you have to disconnect it from either the steering arm or the pitman arm to adjust it. With the dropped pitman arm, you can still adjust the draglink without disconnecting it. But if you do want the dropped draglink, they are between $120-$140.
     
  10. BozoWise

    BozoWise 1/2 ton status

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    Just to add to your info Yes they make an extended brake line for the rear. I have the skyjacker part number at the shop if you need it shoot me a PM. I think I paid about 45 for mine.
     
  11. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    PM'd ya.

    how hard is it to install a pitman arm?
     
  12. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    remove the drag link from it and then take the bolt off at the steering box side, and it should come off, then install new one with the drag link.
     
  13. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    Re: making a 6\" work

    thank you very much.
     

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