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Making hole in door for electrical wiring

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by rampage, Aug 20, 2001.

  1. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I bought new doors and I need to make a hole in the side of them for the wires to pass through for the windows/locks. I would rather not use a grinder or hole saw because I don't want metal shavings inside the doors. Does anyone have a suggestion on how to make these holes, I think they are 1 to 1 1/4 inch in diamter.

    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by rampage on 08/20/01 12:38 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Use a hole saw...but grease the hole saw up so the shavings stick to it.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  3. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    I think you may be hard pressed to find any way to cut a hole without getting shavings inside the door. You could run a powerful shop vac right next to the bit while drilling and that would help keep most of it out.

    Brian
    Click to see <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com> My 85 Jimmy </a>
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  4. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

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    Go find a electrician, or a sheetmetal shop with a "slugbuster" You have to drill a small pilot hole (much less in bottom of door) put the dies on and presto you punch a perfect hole.

    "There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
    Luke
    84 K5
     
  5. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I have one of those but it is 3/4 inch and I'm having trouble finding a larger one (or anyone that carries them at all). It was my father's so I don't know where he got it from. Home Depot has them but only in a set which costs $275.
     
  6. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    Look for a local electrical or plumbing supply shop, or bigger Sears stores usually have them too - I've got a 1" Greenlee that I picked up for $17 and change through Wesco. If all else fails, go to Sears and get a Uni-Bit - they tend to throw the chips out the back, and any that go inside the door will be large enough that a quick pass with a magnet will pick them all up.

    Dos mas Tecates!!!
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  7. Michael

    Michael 1/2 ton status

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    I may be missing something....but whats the big deal with shavings inside the door? Pop off the plastic panel and vacuum them out.

    Michael[​IMG]
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm>www.jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm</a>
     
  8. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I don't want to chance metal flakes inside the window motor plus these are new doors that have been painted inside so I don't want metal flakes inside that can start rust forming on them. I'll be cleaning it out afterwards but I'd rather not have flakes if I can help it.
     
  9. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    Another not so recommended method, but one that I've done is a woodworking "chipper" bit - the bit will be toasted after you're done, but there won't be any chips to deal with - it cuts out a nice little plug.

    Dos mas Tecates!!!
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  10. fr8train

    fr8train 1/2 ton status

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    Drill a pilot and then use a step bit or a reamer bit. The reamer will give you one large shaving. The bit will give you a few large shavings. I got my reamer from Grainger. I Think you can get a remer from sears though, same with the step bit.

    * the rearmer looks like a big spinning top from the 20's-50's.
     
  11. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    I think I know the tool you're talking about and I beleive that I actually have a few (don't care about ruining it either), so I'll look into that. I also have a Grainger store nearby so I'll check there too. Thanks for the leads.
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    You don't need a big hole anyway. Remove the plugs from the wiring with a papoerclip. (they are just like most other connectors, a single tab holds each crimped on lead in place in the connector)Once you are dealing with just the wires, you can thread them through.

    You could fit it all in there with about a 1/4" hole. If you are worried about abrasion, use a grommet and cut the hole that size. Bottom of the door has drain holes, use a vacuum and shake the door out good. You are going to get rust no matter what in there, door shavings aren't going to be the catalyst.



    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
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  13. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    That's a good idea. I've lined the bottom of the doors with a spray on rubber liner so any water inside the door has no place to go except out the drain holes in the bottom. Hopefully that'll help with the rust that usually forms on the bottom of the doors.
     
  14. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The problem with rust on the doors is the gaskets. The gaskets hold water against the door after it rains, and you open it up. Rust forms. A good paint barrier here, that is not allowed to wear through, would solve that. As well, the factory "caulk" that they use on the seams, typically cracks, and allows water to get at the unprotected metal. Prevention such as you mentioned, is going to slow down the process, but it's always a good idea to not forget about this stuff, for when you do, after 4-5 years, it's going to be the same problems all over again. I plan on spraying the insides of the doors with POR-15, and not sure what I'm going to do about the lower edge..maybe a small stripe of POR-15, the rest body color.

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     

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