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Manifolds vs. Headers?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Citizen Rider, Jan 25, 2006.

  1. Citizen Rider

    Citizen Rider 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 83 blazer. Has a completly different drivetrain out of something else. Has a 4-bolt main and factory GM aluminum intake. It currently has stock manifolds. I bought a TH350 tranny from Koldsimer and also bought the headers from him for super cheap(7 bucks:D ).

    Someone told me i should stay manifolds cause of powerloss and stuff where he made no sense. But the exhaust needs to be replaced as its all factory and custom booger welds in places where its falling apart. It also needs to be reworked around some stuff.

    Which would you do? Eigther way exhaust needs work and will be rerun anyways.

    Pics of headers(1 3/4" tube into a 2 1/2"+ collector)btw- my camera sucks!:mad:

    DSCF0439.JPG
     
  2. gmtech954

    gmtech954 Registered Member

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    run the headers and dual exhaust:D
     
  3. 4xcrazy

    4xcrazy 3/4 ton status

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    Headers are nice, but can be a real P.I.T.A. to keep sealed up, i'd just run the stock manifolds if you haven't done anything extensive to the engine.
     
  4. chevyguybc

    chevyguybc 1/2 ton status

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    headers is the only way to go

    what many people dont know is to the cut the supports in between the headers, and then you will recive a much better seal against the exhaust ports...
     
  5. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    I vote for headers. Use exhaust manifold gaskets to seal them to the head and seal the collectors as shown below

    [​IMG]
     
  6. lamberthkp

    lamberthkp SITFU Premium Member

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    go headers . :waytogo:
     
  7. Citizen Rider

    Citizen Rider 1/2 ton status

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    Headers it is. I have the gaskets. Just got to pull the manifolds and make sure the square port will work. Then install. I planned on having the exhaust welded to the header like in that one pic for better connection, less to come loose.
     
  8. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Is your engine stock or modified internally? More than a GM aluminum intake....do you have a bigger cam, higher compression, heads that are NOT GM?

    The headers will make little difference on a completely stock engine. As long as no other exhaust stuff is changed, if you go dual exhaust all at the same time then you will probably feel a difference, mostly due to the exhaust.

    If your motor is built, you will see a difference. I installed a pair of Hooker Comps on my built 406 and made NO muffler or pipe changes so I was able to compare the manifolds to the comps without changing anything else.

    I noticed slightly faster acceleration and a little better throttle response. It was worth it in my application. Sounds better too.

    A huge thing with getting a header to seal and stay sealed is the use of a quality gasket. Copper or aluminum is the ONLY way to go. I used Percy's aluminum gaskets and have had ZERO problems with leaks, and I also bought my headers used too.
     
  9. Dallin

    Dallin 1/2 ton status

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    I love the old corvette ram horn manifolds. They allow you to run the crossover tube under the oil pan. Then you can run a single large pipe. They seal great and flow good. They cost as much as headers, but I prefer them.

    Headers often hurt power under 4000 RPM. My engine never revs that high. I think you need to consider your driving habits, engine specs, durability concerns and cost. There isn't one right answer for everybody. More info would be good.
     
  10. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    I'm not sure how much these fancy-pants gaskets cost, but I've never had a leak when using common readily available exhaust manifold gaskets with my $79 AutoZone headers. I put used cheapo headers on my '72 and they seal just fine.
     
  11. TJS

    TJS 1/2 ton status

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    This may or may not help. I had headers. Had them on everything from Camaros, Mustangs, Vegas, and trucks. I hate them period. Here is what I did to my 85 K-10.

    http://www.tjsperformance.com/exhaust.htm

    T.J.
     
  12. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    i'm a believer in the need for a quality header..

    95% of people cheap out on headers.. you get what you pay for... don't hate the product, hate yourself for being cheap.

    cheap, thinwall headers sound like crap, have that real tinny sound to em. not to mention rotting out and leaking issues..

    quality, thickwall headers sound so much better, not to mention the thick flanges sealing much better...

    for lower rpm power just get a smaller primary tube.

    its really the first thing you need to do to open up the performance of a motor.. even if its stock now, its still the first thing you should do...
     
  13. Chevy305

    Chevy305 6 Lug 14bsf Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I'm looking to do headers also on my 85 K10 and I'd die for a set of Thorleys but they hurt the walet too much. I did a comparison between the Thorleys and the Summit brand headers (part # SUM-G9006-9) and the only real diffrence is the Throleys had a 3/8s flange and Summits had a 5/16s flange. I think the 1/16 of flange difference isn't enough to spend double on the Thorleys. But with the Tri-Y design what's better about it than the normal full length headers?

    Also to the guy that hates headers: have you ever run them with copper gaskets? Also the headers you used were they the expensive kind or the cheapos?
     
  14. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    your missing the most important difference imo, tubewall thickness. 14 gauge as opposed to 18 gauge.. thus, tinny sound, etc...

    like i said, people justify it to themselves 95% of the time to be cheap with their headers... everyone seems to think 300 to 400 is expensive, go price stainless and say that... upwards of a grand there....

    you'll get better top end with full lengths.. the big advantage of the tri-y imo is fitment.. full-lengths have been known to have shackle interference, heatsoak, etc..

    all that being said, i'm leaning torwards some hookers directly from JetHot as opposed to Thorley's... i won't consider a $100 header, i'd rather run manifolds....
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2006
  15. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Call yourself a very lucky person then, because you are. Apparently your flanges never warped, thin flanges like to warp and when they do the cheap gaskets don't work.
     
  16. Chevy305

    Chevy305 6 Lug 14bsf Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    :yikes:Oh Snap! I just did an even closer comparison between the Thorleys and the Summit brand and the the Thorleys are 14 gauge and the Summits are 18!!!! Summit has got some quality stuff for $169 (about 1/2 the Throleys at $325), and this is the ceramic coated set I'm talking about.
     
  17. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    see my above post....

    so basically your buying some $90 headers and paying $70 for coating...

    keep justifying.... :wink1:
     
  18. stkcode

    stkcode Registered Member

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    I agree with ryoken and rjfguitar. I wont use headers unless they have a 3/4 flange and made of at least 14 guage steel. I have'em setup like this on my burb and the accessories spinning are noiser than the headers. Anything less is just asking for leaks.
     
  19. Citizen Rider

    Citizen Rider 1/2 ton status

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    I fully understand what is being said about cheap headers. And i agree. But when your on a super tight weekly paid budget at the time being and come upon a sweet deal. I had to jump on it. Was just something to add on for right now. Get the blazer running good. Then the mods will slower start pouring onto it. Just takes time and money. Ive been very lucky to find the deals i have found. ive got about 750 or less tied into this blazer including the cost of buying it. And its ready to run. Just got to put the tranny back in it.
     
  20. jekquistk5

    jekquistk5 Weld nekid Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    A set of hookers will be going on my k5 in about 2 weeks :) :thumb:
     

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