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Manual Transmission help

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by scott85, Feb 9, 2007.

  1. scott85

    scott85 Registered Member

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    I have an '86 K-10 with 4 speed manual tranny and 144k miles on it. Supposedly its the original clutch setup. Its been pretty cold here the last week and a half or so, and i noticed a problem last night. Until the truck is warmed up it DOES NOT want to go into gear. I really have to yank on the stick to get it in. Last night it would grind if i tried to put it into first or reverse. Once its sufficiently warmed up, there doesnt seem to be a problem. Also, if i shut the truck off, it goes in all gears fine while its off. Any thoughts on what this is? Any help is appreciated.

    thanks!
    Scott
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Neither first nor reverse are synchronized on that transmission. To prevent the grinding, hold down the clutch, shift into 2nd for a moment and then shift to first or reverse. No more grinding. :cool1:
     
  3. scott85

    scott85 Registered Member

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    manual transmission

    Thanks for the quick reply!.......how come it only happened when it was really cold out? I did notice that even when its warm, there is grinding when i want to put it in Low, but that was the only gear it happened in. Im wondering if maybe the clutch isnt fully disengaging?
     
  4. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    The gear lube in the trans turns to molasses when it gets cold out and makes things inside the trans VERY sluggish. It's nothing to worry about.
     
  5. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    Yup, molasses.
    So all the gears and stuff that normally stop moving when you step on the clutch are still turning because the viscosity of the oil is sticking parts together and causing them to turn.
    No worries.
    Although, that is a lot of miles from a clutch, but if warm weather is okay, then be happy.
     
  6. rcamacho

    rcamacho 1/2 ton status

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    You could try changing the fluid. There are some good GL-4/5 synthetic lubes out there which are less viscous in cold weather.
     
  7. scott85

    scott85 Registered Member

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    i feel much better now! :).

    what kind of fluid goes in there? how much of a bear is it to change?

    Also, it will grind going into low unless i really jamb it in there hard. Is this a lockout type of thing to make sure you dont accidentally go in there?

    thanks again
     
  8. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    No lockout. Oil change is easy to get out, harder to get back in.
    To change, drive around at highway speed to get it warmed up as much as possible so it will flow out better. Drain plug is in the rear bottom area.
    Fill plug is on driver side about 1/2 way up. Since it is kinda high and recessed the bottle won't flow into it. I run a clear hose up to the cab and fish it through one of the shifter holes. I then attach a funnel and fill from the cab. It's always messy and gear oil is like the a bad rash....it spreads and is hard to get rid of.
    My manual specifies API GL5 SAE 80W90 gear oil. If you get a synthetic it will flow better. Torque for the fill/drain plugs is 17 ft/lb. Capacity is 4.2 quarts.
     
  9. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    Also, before you fill it in the winter, keep the gear oil inside nice and warm. Even the synthetic is thick and will take forever to fill if it's cold.
     
  10. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    quick-lube..

    It's faster and easier to remove the shifter boot and shifter,and dump a one gallon jug of 80W-90 down into the "hole",than to fill it by the filler plug..

    I did several of my trucks this way in frigid weather--beat lying under it for an hour ,and having half the gear oil spill on me!..I liked doing it while sitting inside a lot better!..

    Some old timers used to thin out their gear oil with 10% kerosene in temps below 10 degrees..my SM465's were quite difficult to shift in cold weather,until they warmed up,especially when I had added some "STP" type gear lube treatment that was thick as honey,to one tranny..ended up draining it again,and using synthetic 75-90W instead..then it sounded noisier!..:doah: --but at least I could get it in gear in the morning..:crazy:
     
  11. scott85

    scott85 Registered Member

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    I have to say, it scared me pretty good to not be able to get it in gear. what's the consensus on putting synthetic in a tranny with 144k miles on it?
     
  12. Chevy305

    Chevy305 6 Lug 14bsf Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I run 50w synthetic motor oil in mine. So far no problems and no matter what temp I can get it into any gear.
     
  13. scott85

    scott85 Registered Member

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    i thought that the gear oil was 80w 90. is it different if you use synthetic?
     
  14. Chevy305

    Chevy305 6 Lug 14bsf Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Nothing diferent, same tranny, but ya I do run sythetic. Also with the 50w I haven't noticed any adverse effects from it yet, so I couldn't tell you if its doing any damage to it.
     
  15. jdemaris

    jdemaris Registered Member

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    Maybe I'm missing something here - but he could have have the NP833 four-speed manual - they were often installed with 305 gassers and 379 diesels. If so, it is full synchronized in all four forward gears.
     
  16. scott85

    scott85 Registered Member

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    and yet another monkey wrench is thrown into the mix! LOL......this is my first 4x4, so im still learning....that being said, i thought they all had the sm465?
     
  17. Chevy305

    Chevy305 6 Lug 14bsf Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    The vast majority had the SM465, but a couple had the OD 4speed. And even some had the 3speed.
     
  18. scott85

    scott85 Registered Member

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    is there any sure fire way to tell? mine has "L" up and to the left, then 1, down left, 2 up right, 3 straight down from 2, and reverse all the way to the right and down.
     
  19. Chevy305

    Chevy305 6 Lug 14bsf Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Definately the SM465 then. It was the only tranny with a granny gear or LO first grear.
     
  20. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    1st ("low") is not synchronized. Typically if you aren't at a dead stop, you can't get it into low easily.

    If you need to start out in low, putting it into 2nd ("first" on most shifter knobs) usually lets you get to low easily. It's worthless unless you REALLY need to go slow, or are starting out pulling something extremely heavy, or need the finesse. Otherwise start in 2nd.
     

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