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Master cylinder Questions On 1 Ton Axle Swap?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by **DONOTDELETE**, Oct 31, 2000.

    I'm going to be changing my 82 over soon and was wondering if my stock master cylinder will work or will I need to change it?Also Shawn,what is the link for the drop drag link you were talking about?I going to cross over steering soon myself.
    Thanks

    IF IT AINT BIG IT AINT BAD!!!!!!
     
  1. Bigd

    Bigd 1/2 ton status

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    Didn't have too do anything too my master when i did the swap.Just for info the calipers on the front of a 44 8-lug are the same as a half ton 44.And the rear wheel cylinders in my 3/4 ton 14 bolt ff where the same size as the ones that where in my 12 bolt.
     
  2. Thanks Bigd,did you have any break line probs in the front?


    IF IT AINT BIG IT AINT BAD!!!!!!
     
  3. Bigd

    Bigd 1/2 ton status

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    I didn't have any problems.But i also swapped my calipers since the ones i had where new.I also went too braid steel lines at the same time.I would reccomend the steel lines they really make a big difference.I believe superlift makes a nice set that is vinyl coated for protection.I would swap the axles then buy new brake lines since you will already have it apart.That way you would for sure get the right fittings for what ever the year of axles you are using.Good luck should be a piece of cake.Gotta love those interchangable chevy parts.
     
  4. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

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  5. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    Sorry, I just saw this post. Ken is right. Contact Scott at rockerstomper.com ellinger@frii.com. The drag link he made me was perfect. Mine measured 38.5" diagnole(with no ends). Your's might be different so you'll have to measure the distance and subtract the ends. Let me know if you need the GM tie rod end part #'s. I'll have some pics soon.

    Shawn
    87 K5
    http://www.off-road.com/chevy
     
  6. Thanks guys,Shaw are you going to post some pics of the install?Go ahead and give me the part #'s.
    Thanks again

    IF IT AINT BIG IT AINT BAD!!!!!!
     
  7. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    Eventually I'll have some pics up. I'll post them here on the board.

    Left Tie Rod End (no stabalizer hole)
    TRW or Moog part # ES2010L

    Right Tie Rod End
    TRW or Moog part # ES2234R

    Dropped Pitman Arm (requires GM 2wd shaft)
    Superlift # sup-1104





    Shawn
    87 K5
    http://www.off-road.com/chevy
     
  8. ken

    ken 1/2 ton status

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    Shawn, is the price from rockstomper excessive if you get the ends already installed? I wanna order one, but don't wanna deal with chasing down the tie rod ends if its only gonna save me $5 or so. Did you get quoted both ways? Thanks.

    ken
     
  9. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    Sorry Ken, I didn't get the price with the ends from rockstomper. You might email him and ask. I just got mine from www.partsamerica.com at 25% off which saved me $17 ($33 each) and it came to my door. www.carparts.com has them but I didn't have a 33% off coupon. For some reason, my local parts stores (checkers and autozone) didn't carry the ES2010L end.



    Shawn
    87 K5
    http://www.off-road.com/chevy
     
  10. Thanks again shawn,Ill be looking forward to seeing the pics.


    IF IT AINT BIG IT AINT BAD!!!!!!
     
  11. Shawn

    Shawn 1/2 ton status Premium Member Author

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    Ok, I took a few pics of the drag link hooked up. Keep in mind, I'm still adjusting both tie rod and drag link as you can see there's no nuts installed yet. I'm currently working on the AGR ram steering and trying to get more turning radius. For some reason, AGR thinks 7.25" is enough when I actually need 8.25" to get full left-right turns. The dropped drag link can not be turned to be adjusted like a normal tie rod since there's not enough room. This means that it's not necessary to thread both left and right hand thread. I'd suggest running ES2234R (right hand)ends on both sides of the drag link. Just be sure to mention right hand tap on both sides of the drag link. The pass. side of the drag link will actually be closer to the spring since I'm removing the D60 block. This setup is actually perfect. It will be far enough away from the crossmember so no trimming will have to be done. This alse puts the tie rod ends at a level unlike before they were too much at a angle. This drag link is a 4" drop and I have 6-7" inches of lift so if you run a 4" lift, you might want a 2" drop. Anyway, here's the pictures:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Can you tell I like blue???[​IMG]

    Shawn
    87 K5
    few mods[​IMG]
     
  12. Thanks for the pics,looks good.Nothing wrong with blue,looks damn fine to me.Let me know how the ram idea pans out,looks like you've got a good start on it.

    IF IT AINT BIG IT AINT BAD!!!!!!
     

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