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metal hole saws

Discussion in 'The Tool Shed' started by 79BRUISER, Oct 10, 2006.

  1. 79BRUISER

    79BRUISER 1/2 ton status

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    Im looking for a quality metal hole saw that will cut 1/4" steel, at least 4 holes. was thinking milwaulkee or starret. don't really need a whole set but that would be nice. really just need a 3" one and arbor. I picked up a cheap set but they dont last real long cutting steel. they work fine in wood just not steel.

    Any Suggestions?

    Thanks, Bruiser
     
  2. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    I really like the ones at Lowes.... Lenox brand. They seem to hold a sharp edge for a good while..... And they are decently priced!
     
  3. JK5

    JK5 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    A hole saw isn't designed to cut 1/4" th steel. I'd find someone that has a mill, so they can be bored. If you do, use lots of oil, otherwise you'll need to replace holesaw for each hole.
     
  4. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    THat's what I use. I have no problem at all with 3/16 so I can't imagine you will have anytrouble with 1/4.
     
  5. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    X2 on Lenox!..

    I've used the Lenox hole saws to cut 4-3/8" holes for truck tailights in a 6" channel iron bumper--I did 4 holes with it,using slow speed on a hand drill with lots of marvel mystery oil as a coolant..the saw held up better than I thought,really!

    It was not cheap though--cost 25 bucks for the saw,and another 10 for the arbor,and I haven't used it since!..:doah: ..it sure did a better job than I would have done with my cutting torch though.:rolleyes:
     
  6. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    They're typically designed to cut one diameter deep. If it's intended for use on steel I see no reason why you can't go thru 1/4" with a 3" OD saw. You need to use lots of cutting fluid - buy the real stuff, it works way better than nearly any home brewed fluid. Will need to frequently lift it out of the groove and clean out the chips. I use those cheep 1" paint brushes for chip brushes.

    Set the speed according to the formula: 4*metal cutting speed/OD (100 for steel). So ~133 RPM Slower works better with hole saws in continous cuts.

    If you can justify it, a Holgun will give you a tighter tolerence hole, but you will need a mill or a magnetic drill to use one.
     
  7. DEMON44

    DEMON44 Low-Tech Redneck

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    I use starret exclusively, mainly because thats what most of my employers supply. I regularly sink them through material much thicker than 1/4". lots of rapid tap. sometimes in the drill press sometimes on the 1/2" air drill. definately as slow as you can go (RPM) drill press gears way down is a really good cut actually. I've found starrets to be pretty reliable. you can easily get a dozen holes out of one through mild steel, and considerably less through T1 high carbon steel.
     
  8. 79BRUISER

    79BRUISER 1/2 ton status

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    thats the steel im cutting, i think i just used to much rpm, did use lots of marvel but didnt clean out the chips, If i had gone slower that might have helped a lot. Ill check at lowes this weekend, would have to order the starret, Ive got a small benchtop mill but there is no way I could setup the c-chanel to hold steady eneugh. i could bore it at work on the mori mill but I dont think managment would like it,

    thanks for the help, ill let you know how it turns out
    Bruiser
     
  9. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

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    Use an actual high sulphur dark cutting oil, it will work better than the Marvel.
     
  10. rdn2blazer

    rdn2blazer 1 ton status Premium Member

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    a standard bi metal hole saw will cut mild steel many, many times IF used right. when making my own 14FF caliper brackets I cut 3 3/4 dia. holes using a 3 3/4 hole saw through 1/2 in steel in a mill with a flood of cutting oil with ease. I ran it as slow as a mill will turn, 60 rpm and I pecked the cut clearing the chips very often, but it cut easy.
    no more then 10 min. a complete cut, and the hole saw is still sharp, even after 4 cuts through 1/2 in steel.

    the problem with cutting by hand with a drill motor is you tend to run the saw too fast, and with a inconsistant rpm. even stoping the saw in the cut which is brutal on ANY cutting teeth on ANY KIND of cutter, which just dulls the saw prematurely. try as you may, its hard to keep a hole saw at a CONSISTANT rpm. also when using a drill you only put minimal cutting fluid on the saw. because your busy sawing ofcourse. it requires as much as you can get on it. this is exactly the reason why cnc machines have flood coolent capability.

    as decribed in other discussions about cutting tools heat is the killer of a cutting tool. for this reason alone you MUST flood a saw, especially if its of a decent size with cutting fluid. remember, a saw 2 in larger at the same drill rpm in actually turning a much greater rpm then the one thats smaller. its turning more surface per minute. this is what creating the excessive heat which is wearing out the saw prematurelly. do not stop a saw in the cut. putt it out of the cut first. use LOTS of cutting oil. dont over rpm it. clear your chips often if its thick material. use a good amount of "feed".

    if it is chattering its too much rpm or not enough feed pressure. to light of feed again creates too much heat and is just wearing the hell out of the tooth edge. a tool works properly when its cutting, NOT rubbing. any brand name saw in good, I have used them all. Lenox, Starrett, Millwaukie, Morse, what ever. that concludes this cutting lesson for today :D . I could go on and on and on and.......
     
  11. 79BRUISER

    79BRUISER 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks, for the info, i'll try the dark cutting fluid instead of the marvel, i have some on hand, i might try to figure out a way to lock it in drill press I have , i can slow it down pretty far, dont think it will go as low as 60 rpm, maybe 150rpm. Ill try i and see, gotta work sat. might just sneek it in, cut it and sneek it out.

    thanks, Bruiser
     
  12. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I have a Ridgid hole saw kit, seems fairly decent for the money.
     
  13. DEMON44

    DEMON44 Low-Tech Redneck

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    What is Marvel?
     
  14. 79BRUISER

    79BRUISER 1/2 ton status

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    marvel mystery oil, penatrating lube, oil addittive, gas additive, air tool oil, pretty much an all purpose lube, been using it for years in many applications.
    www.marvelmysteryoil.com

    but does anyone Really know what it is??????:eek1: :eek1: lol
     
  15. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    I know it's not a particularly great cutting oil.
     
  16. DEMON44

    DEMON44 Low-Tech Redneck

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    Never heard of it. I've only used Rapid tap for drilling and tapping.
     
  17. spoolnaround

    spoolnaround 1/2 ton status

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    Cutting fluid isnt real expensive.
     
  18. surpip

    surpip 1 ton status

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    i used a rigid hole saw to cut the old tire carrier piviot out of my bumper, worked good, i burned up one cause i drilled to fast, but the second one lasted well
     
  19. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

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    There are also Carbide tipped hole saws. Designed specifically for hard materials. Much more forgiving.
     
  20. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

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    And a MUCH cleaner hole.
     

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