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More ball-joint Qs. Are Napa Ball-Joints good?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Blazer79, Jan 19, 2001.

  1. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    I need your help again.

    I recently went over a large rock at 45mph (it was either that or the wall or the car besides me). Battery fell, the wheel bent slightly (amazing how good these wheels are), and my steering wheel is 90deg off center.

    After checking everything, I also discovered that my ball-joints are bad. The worst thing is that not only the impact side, but both sides!! Can the other side be damaged from that impact too?

    Anyway I found TRWs and Moog as Grim-Reaper recommends, but the NAPA "Master Ride" are the least expensive ones. Should I go with these? or are they bad?

    Thanks for your help.

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  2. Corey-88K5

    Corey-88K5 1/2 ton status

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    About 2-3 years ago I replaced everything on the front of my Blazer with Napa Parts. I haven't had a problem, for the most part, they are still pretty tight. I keep them well greased. But, next time, I'm planning on using a differen't manufacture. The main complaint I have is with the ball joints. They don't have very good grease points. As a matter of fact, you have to pull the hub assembly apart, and remove the axles to lube the upper ball joints. The rears you even have to remove the tire, and the plug, install the zurk's and then reverse the process to beable to drive it. Quite a pain in the butt.

    That is my only complaint about them. Best of luck & I strongly suggest getting something with a warranty.

    As far as damaging something on the other side, take into consideration, they are all linked together, thats how both tires turn together. I'm sure it could cause some sort of damage.

    Corey
    88K5

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  3. coopertwpk

    coopertwpk 1/2 ton status

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    I bought a napa set on one side and Moog on the othe moog has grease zirc fitting angled back on the top ball joint you install it after its pressed in place the napa well you have to pull the axle.

    88k5 silverado w4"lift soon to have <font color=orange>d44 and corp14ff</font color=orange> with 4.56s
     
  4. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Why couldn't a guy put a 50 cent 90 deg zerk in the hole on the top joint? Just a thought...........

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  5. Casey 86K5

    Casey 86K5 1/2 ton status

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    FWP has the right idea about the 90 deg zerk on the upper joint. Dont use the 45 deg zerk that is with the NAPA joint- you will have to pull the axle to put it in, but with the 90 degree zerk you can insert it into the bottom of the ball joint with a little patience and not have to remove the axle- I have done this many times. Just be sure to take the zerk back out when your done because even the 90 wont clear the u-joint in the axle.

    Casey 86K5
    -'86 Chevy K-5
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  6. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    Does the Moog fitting clear the U-joint so I can leave it on? Or do I have to install it and remove it everytime I grease the balljoint?

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  7. Corey-88K5

    Corey-88K5 1/2 ton status

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    Well I don't know if my ball joints are different, but mine will hardly fit a piece of paper between the u-joint and the ball joint. So I know either a 90, 45 or any zurk won't fit.

    Corey
    88K5

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  8. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

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    Stay away from the crap Advance Auto sells... 5KMI and my lowers are alredy shot. I'm pretty tweaked about the whole thing.

    Luke
    84 K5
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  9. Cavalry

    Cavalry 1/2 ton status

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    Anyone have the part #'s for the Moog ones?

    Luke
    84 K5
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  10. coopertwpk

    coopertwpk 1/2 ton status

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    The moog ones i bought have the zerk at the outer area thats right below the circlip ring on the bottom one so it isnt close at all to the u,joint

    88k5 silverado w4"lift soon to have <font color=orange>d44 and corp14ff</font color=orange> with 4.56s
     
  11. Mr Red

    Mr Red 1/2 ton status

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    My vote's for Moog!

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  12. bp71k5

    bp71k5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    If anyone finds this thread, I have to also agree the napa ball joints are a pain to grease. I should have checked them before installing them. They put the grease fitting in the wrong spot.
     
  13. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    For the 10b, the Moog lower zerk is dead center on the bottom. The upper has the zerk on the taper transition from the flat bottom to the press-fit barrel. So you have to pay attention to the pointing of the zerk hole. You have to clock it to where you can grease it, as you are positioning for the press/install. Zerk screws in after.
    Now that I'm on TT for this thread, I'll try to get a pic tomorrow.
    Ask the Moog dealer to bring one to the counter.:D
     
  14. boz42

    boz42 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    talk about back from the dead, 2 post up the date was 1-21-01
     
  15. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    :haha: :haha: Didn't even notice. Lets hope that problemo is way history.:haha:
     
  16. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I can't figure out how ayone found it this time.....
     
  17. bp71k5

    bp71k5 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    I did a search. :) I figured I'd save someone the hassle in case they buy befre they search like I just did.
     
  18. pma4x4

    pma4x4 1/2 ton status

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    thy thread I resurrect!

    Does anyone have a part number of the moog ball joint with the zerk on the outer edge? This is for the GM 10 bolt.

    Nevermind i found it.


    BACK TO THE DEPTHS FROM WHICH YOU CAME THREAD!:haha::haha::haha:
     
  19. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    With no part number? To the depths with you! :)
     

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