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more flex without new springs, can it be done?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by four_by_ken, Dec 3, 2001.

  1. four_by_ken

    four_by_ken 1/2 ton status

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    Post deleted by four_by_ken
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    There are usually some things you can do to help flex and ride. Number one is find a ramp or obstacle you can use for testing purposes. Ramp it like it is and take measurements if you can. Then ramp it with shocks disconnected. I found my front and rear shocks were limiting flex on my truck. I relocated the rear shocks but haven't done anything about the front yet (no $ for longer shocks right now)
    I also opened up the spring clamps on my front Rancho's. I had heard it helped but doubted it until I tried it for myself. I gained another 1" of droop (with shock disconnected) just by opening up the clamps a little.

    Greasable bushings help a ton too. Most shackles resist movement because they are rusted. If the shackle can't move the spring cannot flatten out under compression.

    I've done most of these things to my truck and even with stiff rancho 4" front springs my truck will ramp 1065 on a 20 degree ramp...more with the front shocks disconnected.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  3. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    you can get massive droop with a very small investment
    get a bar or pipe that is wider then the distance from outside of left spring to outside of the other spring
    attach that to the frame laterally at the front edge of the rear spring hanger
    remove rear spring hanger allowing springs to rest on bar
    the droop will be beyond any other setup and equally useless
    now some will go on that the axle needs shackles to locate it, they are wrong
    the front of the springs are securely bolted to the frame so there is virtually no way the axle can travel side to side beyond normal bushing deflection. with stiff poly bushings that wont be too much.
    go look at most hiway tractors with an airleaf rear suspension, i just described it above, they dont use a panhard bar and the axle stays located just fine
     
  4. four_by_ken

    four_by_ken 1/2 ton status

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    I am pictureing it... but just doesnt seem right. Never seen a truck like this.

    Ken H.


    '86 K5 up and coming
    14 bolt(Detroited),10 bolt,39.5 Boggers rear,
    TSLs front, 468 BBC, 350 trans, 205 transfer
    Rust free in Michigan!
     
  5. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    i thought that post was dripping with sarcasm.
    I am not a fan of 'goofy link' suspensions
    as the droop thing gains you very near nothing in terms of useable traction IMO
     
  6. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Not flaming you, but this doesn't seem like it would work to me.

    A spring without a pivoting shackle woudl seem to hinder less movement and less articulation! When a spring compresses it elongates, hence the need for the pivoting shackle. And the same for compression, the distance between the bushing eyes narrows and pivots the shackle the opposite way.

    If you take away this pivoting shackle you would get less spring travel and less articulation/droop.....

    Just my .02 cents.

    Mike

    <font color=green>"1024x768x256... Sounds like one mean woman."</font color=green>

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  7. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    my idea is to remove the shackle and any attachment at the rear of the spring entirely
    free movement controlled only by the front bushings
    old trucks use a rub block and no rear shackle
    they have a pin that prevents the rear of the spring from dropping more then an inch or 2
     
  8. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    Try what Rene said and open up the wraps on the front springs. You can also remove the clamps from the rear springs to allow them to open more.

    One other thing you may tyr, if you have "extra" lift, you can try removing a leaf in your springs.. This will take some stiffness out of your springs and allow them to flex more, but will take away lift height...

    Mike

    <font color=green>"1024x768x256... Sounds like one mean woman."</font color=green>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>www.geocities.com/emmettology101</a>
     
  9. Emmettology 101

    Emmettology 101 3/4 ton status

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    I still cant picture your set-up 100% do you have any sketchs or pics? Is it similar to the Springer set-up?

    Mike

    <font color=green>"1024x768x256... Sounds like one mean woman."</font color=green>

    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/emmettology101>www.geocities.com/emmettology101</a>
     
  10. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    He was kidding! You don't want to do that.

    '71 Blazer CST w/ a 400sbc, 4" lift, 36" Supper Swampers, and alot of rust
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/triaged>See it Here </a>
     
  11. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    I am actually thinking that the solid mounted 1/4 eliptical spring might be the best set up as it resists excessive droop
     
  12. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Re: more flex without new springs, can it be done? *DELETED*

    Four by Ken: Sorry, this one got off subject. It happens, and sometimes it ends up to be interesting. Between the two posts there should be enuff info to get some good ideas.

    <font color=blue>Twiz</font color=blue>
    Can't get it up?
    So, drop it in
    gear.
     
  13. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    77chev;
    Those big rigs run some crazy sup. set ups. Leafs, links and bags- the works. Each has a job to do.

    As far as front drop. In our case it's not like we're just hanging a tire with-out any contact pressure. You do have half-of the axle and tire weihgt.
    Also, on the front susp, with the narrow spaced leafs. When (-for example) the LF spring hitts the rubber bumper, it will act as a lever and as the LF is pushed higher, it will force the RF down. Like a teeter-totter. The bump stop acts as a piviot. It's not much, but every-bit counts.

    I've had to move my bump-stops down (to clear the headers with low lift) and found out that it increased articulation, but it did limit streight up-and-down travel. A resonable loss in my case (kept the tires out of the fenders when compressed streight up and down).

    <font color=blue>Twiz</font color=blue>
    Can't get it up?
    So, drop it in
    gear.
     
  14. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    heard all that before,
    dont buy it at all
    I dont know if you have noticed the goofy leaf thing has fallen from favor with all the 'cool' rock crawlers.
    IMO goofy links helps create artificial ramp scores
    and
    as a byproduct a more rollover prone, more unstable truck
    i dont think lifting a tire is a sin though either so i am way uncool
    i have even changed my mind about 1/4 eliptic, i just recently figured out why it can work better then coils
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I honestly believe you're wasting your time. If I was a rock crawler, I might think differently, but, I am a firm believer that leaf springs, if the correct ones are chosen, can be made to work just as well as these fancy suspensions we see on these hardcore trucks.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  16. four_by_ken

    four_by_ken 1/2 ton status

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    I never said anything about rock crawling or going crazy on suspension. All I was asking about was a little more out of my suspension. I am sticking with the leaf springs. Relax a little.

    Ken H.

    '86 K5 up and coming
    14 bolt(Detroited),10 bolt,39.5 Boggers rear,
    TSLs front, 468 BBC, 350 trans, 205 transfer
    Rust free in Michigan!
     

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