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More help with 4 speed swap please

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Jun 19, 2002.

  1. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Okay. My plan is to drop motor, tranny, and transfer case in one piece into my '84 after the cab is installed to simplify it. Without the front clip this is plenty do-able.

    The only problem seems to be the shifter for the 4 speed. I can remove the 205 shifter no problem, but it appears the 4 speed's shifter doesn't come off without removing the top cover.

    Since my truck was originally equipped with a 700R4 and an NP 208, it doesn't have the easily-removable bolt-in tranny hump and I don't have one for it (nor do I want to go through the work of installing it).

    So, any bright ideas on how to do this? I was thinking I could remove the top cover from my 465, put the motor/tranny/xfer in, and then install the top cover, then put up the tranny xmember.

    I don't exactly know what I'm getting myself into by removing that top cover though, and I'm hoping there's an easier way (but I'm thinking there isn't. I'm also wondering how I'd tighten the top cover down after doing this.

    Any bright ideas? I'm open to suggestions.
     
  2. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    on the 465 you need to push down on the retaining ring on the base of the shifter and turn it 1/4 turn or less then it should pull striaght out. Have it out of gear when you do so it will go right back in.
     
  3. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    I went through something similar when I put a 465 in mine. Along with what 55Willy said there is a roll-pin just below the little half-round cover, on the tranny case cover. Tap that little pin out, along with removing the little half-round cover, and the shifter will come right out. The hardest part is gettin that pin out. Good Luck!!
    Ps. Just wondering... you going with the hydraulic clutch setup?
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    No...I wish I had the parts to do a hydraulic clutch, they're so much more convenient. I have all the pedals/linkage to go mechanical so that's what it's going to be.

    I run mud where flex is rare and nearly all of my friends run 4 speeds and ALL run mechanical clutches and none have had problems.

    But, when I get an NV 4500, I"m going hydro, which won't be for a few years, but I'm gonna do it eventually.

    My other question is...there's a place in my floor that looks an awful lot like where you'd have the shifter come through the floor if you had a 4 speed. Think it's the proper place for the shifter? (I'm gonna cut it out soon so it better. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif

    I am soooooo pumped!!

    Guys, I can't thank you enough for responding to my posts. I know that's what this place is for, but seriously, this project is quite intimidating. I'm doing it all myself basically, I pulled the motor myself the other day and everything. My friends all say they're gonna help (and I helped them when they needed me) but they're never here!! If not for you guys, I would not have the patience to go through all of this.
     
  5. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    I am current doing the same swap but with hydro...Your tranny hump should have dimples or recesses in it to show you where to cut the shifter hole...Good luck...

    Chris
     
  6. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    Depending on what year your truck is, you'll have dimples and recesses all over the place, including the ones for the clutch master cylinder ('85 and up, I think). -To answer your question though... Yes, the large oval-shaped recess on the hump is where your shifter will go. The only thing that varied when I did my 700r-to-SM465 swap was the cross-member. I not sure, however, if it was because of year-model disparity between my '88 Blazer and the donor truck, a '78 3/4 ton Long-bed truck. Anyway, I merely had to move the cross-member up a couple inches. The shift still hit the factory stamped hole dead center.
    As far as going hydraulic... I really wasn't that bad for me. A new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder cost me under a hundred for both brand new. The bell-housing (which has the flange for the slave cylinder) I got from a junk yard for $10. Unfortunately I didn't make I back in time to get the pedals. Since I was too far into it to turn back now, I had to revert to the factory. $200 later I walked out with the bracket, clutch pedal and brake pedal, and fluid reservoir. I was all worth it for me.
    Anyway... Good luck with your swap!! Just shoot me an e-mail if you have any more questions.
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Well If I could grind the rest of this damn bracket out of the way and get my pedals in, I'd be in heaven.

    As soon as I'm done with that and I've cut the shifter holes, I'm gonna pull the cab from the frame and cut out the driveline. On Saturday the new frame will be here and I can start cleaning it up, painting, etc. After that it will be all downhill.

    Also--the crossmembers changed in '85. I have an '84 so I have the flat style crossmember already. I'll have to move it probably, but I'm willing to bet because my frame is a '79 (and a 465/205 combo was offered that year) I won't even have to drill holes!
     
  8. Blazer1970

    Blazer1970 1/2 ton status

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    You do not have to remove the roll pin to get the shift lever out of the 465. Just push down on the sheet metal retainer (a pair of channel locks works good), turn it 1/4 turn or so CCW, and the whole thing comes right out.
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If it takes another voice saying so, you do not need to remove any roll pin to remove the shifter. As has been said, push down and turn left on the retaining ring at the base of the shifter, and it will pop free, and the shifter comes straight out. Sometimes its tough to get a grip on that retaining ring (its basically roung) but I've never had to use anything other than my fingers to get it loose.
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    on your truck, if you want a clean 205 install, you can probably just bolt in an older 205 equipped trucks tranny tunnel. (Assuming yours is bolted in, not welded like some of them) The 208 shifter and boot won't fit where the 208 hole is. If you don't care about looks, cut away /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    Dimples were in my floor for the shifter cutout, and even the screws to retain the boot.
     
  11. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I have the shifter and boot for the 205, don't worry, I'm gonna do a clean install if possible.

    My tunnel is welded in, not bolted. I definitely wish it was bolted.
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I was in the same boat. Oxy Acetylene torch to bend it, and the 205 shifter fits the 208 hole like a glove, just not that darn 205 shift boot! : )
     
  13. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    No torch and really not interested in bending it unless it's mild. I'll probably cut up the floor, then cover up the sections that I don't need to have holes in them, MIG it up, paint the floor, and install carpet and boots.
     
  14. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Yeah its mild...just have to move it over a few inches to the right...like 2" so that it doesn't hit the body as the engine moves around.

    Just used a torch so I didn't work stress the metal as much.
     
  15. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Hell...2". I can just cut the floor and cover that with the boot!! We'll see, thanks for the tip. (No pun intended)
     
  16. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Finally got those damn pedals in. I'll have to get the cab on the new frame and rig up the linkage and see if it's still going to rub that f****** bracket. I sure hope not, I did a lot of sawzalling to get it out of the way for the pedals.

    Two nights up til 4-5 am sucks. I'm glad my pedal nightmare is over . I managed to cut the left turn signal wires with the sawsall too. Cut them up so close to it that I'll have to get a new bulb base for that side. Good thing my friend has a parts truck.
     
  17. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Glad the pedal's working for you...ahhh...hydraulic lol.

    The thing about cutting the tunnel is that once you open it up, the 205 boot isn't wide enough to cover the hole...you can cut the drivers side, and weld/rivet the left over to the other side, but the floor is reinforced for the 208 shifter as well. (no biggie really, just more difficult to weld back up)

    I just figured bending the shifter 2" over was easier than cutting/welding pieces back in. (Of course, I traded the chrome shifter for painted for the bending reason)
     
  18. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    When you're trying to bleed your clutch, I'll laugh.

    Think I'll have to mess with the linkage for the 3" body?
     
  19. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    I said to remove the roll pin because I couldn't get my cover to turn w/o screwing it up. Since I'm not sure how easy it is to aquire one of these things, I just tap the roll pin out. Just be careful, and know that if it gives you any trouble tap the pin out.
    Dyeager535 and blazer1970... Its hard to get one buy on you guys!!! LOL
     
  20. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Hahaha : )

    Already had too...took me a bit by myself, but all done, haven't touched it in a year and a half.

    Bet you'll need to adjust your z-bar to clutch fork pin before I do, and bet your linage binds before mine does when flexing...oh, and I forgot about the pedal return spring, frame bracket, and ball stud..hows that all working out for ya? : P

    just giving you a hard time, I only went hydraulic because the body was designed for it..had the frame drilled for the Z-bar bracket and all.
     

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